Avaciously Yours

PR: "Ladies, That's How You Get a Man."

2012-02-02T21:02:00.005-05:00

"Find a muse to inspire a fashion-forward look," in the park.
By the way...you have to use their clothes. You have $150 to bribe them.
A two-day challenge.
Meanwhile, I liveblog.

How did the designers do on the street?
Anthony's first choice was hilarious. Her top is wild. That seemed a big risk, but in a way it wasn't, because he picked someone who looked intrigued by being a fashion muse. He spotted the open personality.
Kenley's choice looked a little vague and flat. Several were, in fact...boring stripes, black and white, nothing really special.
Austin's choice of muse was perfect for him--I was worried, because his lank and personality inspires skepticism in some people...but then again, he is the most famous of this bunch.
Mondo's choice was lucky. That woman's dress looked kind of tailor-made for his interests.
Kara definitely picked up an admirer while she was begging. I think that's the route I would have gone. Look for an attractive man in an interesting color and turn on the flirt. I admit that I also might have tried to get his pants.
Props to designers giving some dollars to Kara, too.
A little side thought--I kind of hate the term "fashion-forward." I get what it is meant to mean, but given the recycling of fashions and trends over time, and the difference styling makes, I don't think it really means what it is meant. Or that it can mean what it's meant.
Another side-thought--I like the All-Stars because there is so much less drama. It's all personal battles within designers rather than cat fights between them...at least at this point. They consult with each other. They diss each other's individual looks sometimes in the interviews, intelligently, but they don't have open animosity toward each other. That's a nice change. I fear, though, that it might just be early. How long before it snaps? (Directly following this thought was pantsgate between Michael and Mila about Kenley and Kara's pants. Get over it, kids. Kenley is being Kenley.)

Hold up...Sean Avery in the house as judge? Hockey star? Who interned at Vogue? I think my brain just exploded. Is this possible?

Michael--Oh, the hotpants. I actually like the top. It's that pink again, which I like. I'm not into the panties as outerwear. I mean, why? Bad, bad idea.
Austin--Leather skirt with striping, jacket with hardware. I like the striping in the skirt, but it is a little too stiff. There is a little too much hardware on the jacket. That being said, it's nice to see Austin do something edgy, and you could see the relationship with his muse.
Kara--I actually like her top I think, the patterns. Wish I could've gotten a better look.
Mila--Definitely something Mila would wear. It looks kind of slouchy to me, though. Actually, I think she literally did make something like that outfit in her season.
Jerell--What the what? So crazy. I have no idea what this outfit was about. There was nothing pretty or engaging here. Please. This man has shown very little taste in his garments as an all-star. It's time to end that ride.
Rami--I like the drape of the top. The shorts...well, I don't know what it is, but I never feel that into shorts that the designers make. Why? They're not all too short or badly made. I just feel meh about them all the time.
Kenley--She produced something a little edgier than usual, which I like to see from her. Wasn't a big fan of the red check pockets or whatever they were, but I liked the shape of the dress.
Anthony--Red palazzos and a black halter...and a bag with that print from his first muse. It's true it didn't quite meet the challenge, of course. I wish he'd done something with all those T-shirts. Like the first season's cotton challenge!
Mondo--I like the little jacket, actually. Not a big fan of the bottoms--shorts, I guess they are. The jacket, though, was original looking and well pieced. Good use of denim. The judges complained that a woman couldn't go anywhere with that outfit, but I disagree. There are numerous applications for that jacket.

Spoiler alert.
Though I didn't approve of the whole outfit, I approve of Mondo for the win. That jacket was really something else, and I am appreciating his more tempered use of pattern and color without losing his flair.
I'm sorry to see Anthony go. His light-heartedness was a lift in the workroom this season.
Crud. Looks like next week is going to be all fighty. I hate head-to-head challenges on PR. Well, so much for the good feeling.

PR: Gelato-ized Fashion

2012-01-31T20:52:00.002-05:00

Sorry about the delay--I got behind on my work last week and recorded the show, and was only just now able to watch.
Designers made fashions "inspired" by gelato flavors. In theory I am supportive of this. But I don't think throwing so many things at a six-hour challenge (Diane vonF, Miranda Kerr wearing the dress at an event) was such a great idea. "When you rush a miracle, you get rotten miracles," as Miracle Max so aptly told us.

Mondo--Orange and green caftan. A little old looking? I am not surprised by Diane's liking his garment, because she is well known for her ease, but I have to say I thought the colors were too literal a rendering of the cantaloupe.
Anthony--He used an asymmetric draped front again, which is sort of becoming his signature. I didn't diss the look as much as the judges. I liked Anthony's look better than Rami's in concept.
Kenley--Kind of a basic pink and yellow patterned dress here...not very special, but certainly clean. Very safe. Very Kenley.
Rami--I don't get it Polka dots and ruched chiffon and a whole bunch of shades of lime...I mean kiwi? Where is the taste here? I was really surprised he was not on the bottom.
Mila--I kind of like the bottom of this red and white dress. I feel like the top was too blousy, though...too unformed. It was bright, which appealed to me. I thought Diane would like it more than she did. I did agree that it was over-accessorized.
Jerell--He is complaining about a competitor's caftan? The strapping was kind of interesting up top, but the stuff stuck on in the chest area was a mistake. The look actually ended up being sort of resorty without looking middle-aged. But what is fruits of the forest? The prints he used were kind of odd together regardless of what that means.
Kara--"You want to lick this dress." That sort of cracked me up. I do see what she was going for now, but I really wish she'd opted to put darker shades up top and in the first tier or so. I also was reminded of Sweet P's tiered dress, which was also flat and unfinished-looking.
Michael--I like the color of pink he selected. The dress reminded me of a boudoir garment. I actually liked it because of the color, and the drape. It reminds me a little of my favorite Burberry trench coat. Not usually a Michael fan, but this one got me in a happy place. The hair on his model was wrong--should have been a softer coiled braid, not the parted look. More like Dianna Agron's hair at the SAGs.
April--The dress is kind of cute up top, with an interesting shape, and I like the multiple layers of blue to make the blueberry effect, but the skirt was kind of crazy. A really unfortunate issue. I hate to say this, but this might have been the time for a slightly bubbled skirt. Would that be too literal? I don't mean a really bubbled thing, just something that would make the skirt bottom nice in a short amount of time.
Austin--Kind of a spring hippie bride look? A forest nymph? I don't mind that, and it was very vanilla-y, but it wasn't very Madagascar-y (whatever that means).

Let's think about what dress you would rather see Miranda Kerr in at an industry event. There aren't many that are very VS Angel-adequate. I grant that the designers didn't know that was a factor. I could really only see Kerr in Mila's or Michael's, and Michael's is the only one that actually looked "expensive" (Help! I sound like Nina!). So, Michael was the obvious choice to win. April...well, I feel bad, but her look made the least sense, with that skirt.

Next week? Clothes...off someone else's back.

PR: All Stars Mega-Celebrity--The Pig

2012-01-19T21:15:00.002-05:00

The challenge: Design a dress for Miss Piggy.
Was the purpose of this challenge to collect soundbytes?
Gordana: "I've noticed she has really nice legs, and I want to show off her legs."
Joanna: "I don't think comfort, when you're dressing a mega-celebrity like Miss Piggy, should really matter."
Austin: "I feel like I do really understand Miss Piggy."
Mondo: "I want to remind her of her childhood."
Honestly. I know there is a lot of tongue-in-cheek humor going on here, but it almost went beyond that, all the way to surrealism.
The thing is, since it's Miss Piggy, a child-friendly topic, it was actually kind of entertaining. I'm not one for the soundbyte effect, but this episode was clearly aimed at a different demographic than your standard PR show.

The looks:
Michael--Those shapes, I'm sorry to say, remind me of curls of bacon. The garment is also too short. I do find the fabric interesting. I like shiny that isn't too shiny. It looked like a jacquard but I couldn't tell for sure.
April--The black feather shoulders are kind of Miss Piggyesque in a weird way I can't explain. However, this dress is also too short.
Jerrell--He came out with an unexpectedly decent garment. A little boudoir, but at least a nice length. The pink was good for Miss Piggy.
Kara--Ooh, that's awfully tight. I don't like the peekaboo tummy, either. How on Earth would Miss Piggy wear that? Frankly, I'm surprised Kara is not on the bottom.
Kenley--Girl loves the girliness. I do not like the petal bust thing, not without some shape. It's like she forgot to finish the top. I do like that print for Miss Piggy, and the froth at the bottom.
Anthony--I like the feathers across the midsection and the underlying fabric choice. It is unexpectedly demure for Anthony. I could wear the dress. The skirt has a bit too much volume in front, though. It's not very Miss Piggy, but I would wear it.
Rami--Oh, the polka dots. Kind of old school Miss Piggy, no? A little too much Carmen Miranda or something, but you could see Miss P in this on the Muppet Show. I would have liked to see something a little softer, though.
Mila--I have to ask, How is that black and white mod colorblocking Miss Piggy? It's Mila. Well made, yes, but not with the fun of what Miss Piggy represents.
Gordana--I see the nightgown thing now that Joanna was thinking of in the workroom. I love the color, though. A sweet rose pink. I think it's a little too baby doll in shape for Miss Piggy.
Austin--There is too much bosom "available" in this garment. The dress does kind of remind me of one of the films, when Miss P is working at the ad agency or whatever. But it's a little much as a whole. Miss Piggy is in a kid's movie, isn't she?
Mondo--Good color in Mondo's look, but too shiny. A little too shapeless up top as well, though I like the bits at the bottom. 60s retro was not a good option, I think.

The results:
As fun as the challenge was, it seems weird to be judging these garments. I get having someone's garment win to be worn to an event. But sending someone home? And the two who were on the bottom? This week, it just didn't make sense. If Kara had been on the bottom, I might not have felt that way. I like Kara, but that dress was nuts. So, unlike the previous weeks, the judging made me shake my head this time.

PR All-Stars: Operaaaaaaaaaa

2012-01-12T21:33:00.003-05:00

A "couture"ish gown to be worn for a night at the opera. This is the foundation garment for Project Runway as an entity. This type of challenge is what started our starry eyes glowing back in the early days. When I get bogged down with the drama and the lack of interesting garments, usually I can be reignited with a gown chalenge. So let's see what came out, shall we?

Kenley--Hello, froth! That's very Kenley, no? I was actually a little disappointed...it really felt like a Barbie dress, and not in a way that would be really wowing. Maybe a sleeker shape with the organza more overlaid? Swooping around the figure?
Sweet P--Oh, dear. I respect SP's aesthetic of slightly zany color, but this dress looked like it was made from 1960s curtain fabric. There is a certain audience for this dress, I think, but there was nothing romantic and night-at-the-opera about it, which is the challenge.
Rami--I was a little disappointed here also--I'm never a fan of that skirt shape set at that particular level. It's a mermaid gone wrong. I liked the color, but the dress didn't have the grandeur that I hoped for.
Gordana--I liked the idea a lot, this sort of George Barbier appeal, and liked the color choices. BUT--the godets were too high on the top. They went too far up the thigh, and it made the "crotch" of the dress a little odd looking. If that had been lower, I would really have gone for this dress! It was unique, as Gordana pointed out, but still perfectly suitable for an opera night. I'd wear it.
Jerrell--The poofy black top looked like a negligee. I was intrigued by the bottom fabric, but the dress looked poorly fit together--the look was not unified. I'd have liked to see that bottom fabric used in a more exciting way.
Kara--This look does not have enough "design." It has a decent shape, but it isn't a wow by any stretch. Side note--the judges just went nuts about pockets in a dress. I like them, too, but it's not going to make me swoon. Anyway, I thought the fabric might be better suited to a tea dress. Or a tea cozy.
Anthony--She looks like...Princess Leia got her dress sliced up. I'm not saying that's a bad thing, it is just exactly what I thought of. Like he'd been asked to take Leia's New Hope dress and make it an evening garment for today's luxury woman. I wasn't really into the choice of jewelry in the belt. It didn't quite work. Leia would have a better choice in her closet.
Austin--I'm not a big fan of the tulle at the bodice, because it seems like not enough tulle somehow. I like the gold of the dress, a lot more than I thought I would, and the bold criss-cross over the middle. The black and gold did work there for contrast.
April--I like the ombre of the red and black, unlike some of the judges. The top seems very messy. I like the translation of April's edge, but it's not tidy enough. Side note--How can you not like red and black together? For OPERA? Hello, Carmen?
Michael--This dress did not have the same expensive feel as others did, I think because there was too much to the dress in front. I did like the beading trim and the shape of the feathers up top. I'm into the shape of the that shoulder and neck portion--I've had my eye on other dresses like that. That being said, I was still a little surprised that the judges thought it was expensive-looking. Well, expensive, yes, but not a bank-breaker. The trim plus the draped bodice was too much for me.
Mila--I actually forgot for a minute what she designed. I didn't write notes this time. Then I said, "was it something black?" Yes. Black and sparkly and long. Clearly, I didn't have a strong opinion about this garment. It seemed well produced, which is fine. Just a perfectly acceptable dress, no more, no less.
Mondo--I loved the fabric selection and the pumped up class of the outfit Mondo made--I'm liking this new restraint of his without losing his Mondo. That white and silver fabric was really quite amazing. I didn't like that it was a short dress, though. I can understand the choice, but, well, in my brain that fabric could have been more of a wow in a longer shape.

I'm not surprised Austin won, but to be honest, I was most intrigued by Gordana's dress. I'd like to have another look at it, actually. It was really kind of the most interesting garment up there to my eyes. I know I sound a little hesitant here, but I don't mean to. I think the woman put up a great garment.
I'm also not surprised that Sweet P went home. I am just surprised that it wasn't Kara in the bottom two with her.

Have you been watching 24-Hour Catwalk? I'm intrigued by the idea, and I like that it's different people each time. I also think the "what's in the trunk" thing is kind of funny, since it is blatantly copying a few cooking shows. Here again, though, I'm not really listening, just watching enough to see what the challenge is and what the result is. We'll see how this wears (ha ha).

PR: All-Stars Unconventional

2012-01-05T21:27:00.003-05:00

So, my mother asked me the other day if my blog was still more than a Project Runway blog. I said it was, I just hadn't had the time/inclination to write more. I got a lot to say, just haven't had the impetus to put it in writing. Yes, this blog is still the all-rounder.
That being said, Project Runway All-Stars is going on right now, so...here I am! I just took a bubble bath and am drinking my favorite bar drink, Coke and grenadine, and am in my fluffy white bathrobe.
Joanna Coles is walking around the work room, examining the designers' starts. I'm actually not a big fan usually of Coles, but she seems positive so far. Also, an article in Digital Spy quotes her as joking, "What if she wants to wear underwear?" is her sort of catchphrase. Gotta respect that, given my complaints about past design efforts that are too short or too tight!
Also, confession: I muted the telly during everything related to personal aspects. Watched the first little runway, the dollar store scene, and the workroom so far.
Some of my favorites are back, and some of my non-favorites are back. I don't understand Austin Scarlett's mustache. On the fashion side of things, the little runway was typical, no? The designs coming down all seemed very typical of their makers. They were identifiable.
Here comes the big runway:
Austin--Not a fan of the middle. Too froofy, hot glue melting or no.
Kara--I've missed her accent. As I typed that, I kind of forgot what she put out.
Jerrell--I am forever bored by his clothes. I can't help it. Flow I respect, but I don't see much growth.
Elisa--I liked her inspiration look. The print of the top was nice in her dollar look. The rest...no.
Rami--Could we stop saying "This bitch is owning it?" Ridiculous. I may own a look, but do not refer to me as a bitch. This dress looked painful to me.
Sweet P--I don't get this dress. It's so simple. It reminds me of Old Navy maxi-dresses.
Mondo--Didn't look very Mondoish, actually. I liked the skirt and the deceptive demureness of the shape. And he made a headpiece.
Kenley--Too stiff. I liked the color of the back, but the white of the front was too unshaped.
Gordana--I liked it...kinda of cute and fluid. Not a big fan of the shoulder treatment on this, though.
Anthony--A great shape, but...it felt kind of like a craft project.
Mila--This was very Mila...well constructed and blocked, and ultimately not memorable.
Michael--I don't think he did a bad job with his mop materials. The shape made me wonder what it would be like if it were metallic in some way.
April--I liked the top of April's mop look; it gave it some shape, and for whatever reason I'm responding to neck treatments lately.

I hate to say this, but my least favorite look was Sweet P's. There wasn't anything to it. Elisa, though...she's just not popular in terms of her aesthetic and her attitude. My favorite look....this is a tough one, but I'm going to go with Mondo. I can understand the judge's point of view on Rami's piece, but I don't like its shape.

So, there is this 24-hour catwalk thing coming up. I guess I'll give it a look, though I am deeply suspicious of Lifetime's reality shows generally.

PR: 4-Way Showdown Throwdown

2011-10-30T15:09:00.005-05:00

So, the finale has come and gone. And next week, we'll be shown the decoy collections evidently, to which I can only say--it's about time! I'm geeked about that because I'd like to see Laura's collection in motion, and see the others to find if it changes my view on them at all. I also just love the stage performance of a runway show.

So. Anya wins. As I mentioned in a previous post, I was unenthusiastic about the remaining 4 designers' collections anyway, with some notable exceptions. That being said, I can understand why they picked Anya--business. I usually complain when the judges pick someone for what seem to be pure business reasons. In this case, though, there weren't that many outs for them.

Anya is young and has experience being in the public eye. She has an affinity for easy garments that make good resortwear. She is the type of designer that people will seek out so they can have one of her pieces. I'm not sure you could say the same for any of the others.

Viktor is really the more talented designer, but the judges, to my eye, were quite right to point out the inconsistencies in his looks...not missed opportunities, as Nina said, but judgment errors. You really scrap that lovely flowy white dress for a black dress with dominatrix cross straps? See-through all-black blouses are very nineties. I had one. And then I got rid of it when its time had past. There were just some strange decisions on Viktor's part that cost him dearly.

I actually appreciated more of Kimberly's looks than others', which surprised me. She had some clunkers also, but she had some looks that were both practical and beautiful. I also appreciated her use of color, though there was really too much metallic going on, I think.

And then there is Josh. The looks weren't all bad, but as others have pointed out, his color palette is unsophisticated, a factor not mitigated by his shapes. For a few moments, I was very afraid they were going to pick him.

So those are my general observations. Here are some particulars.

Anya:

Yes--short gold dress, black and white bambooesque print dress, black and white halter dress

No--gold and turquoise jump suit, short blue and print romper

Kimberly:

Yes--turquoise top and skirt (I like that top's fit), blue dress, pink pants and black top, white feather top and pant

No--black pants and blue top, drapey thing with pink skirt/dress

Viktor:

Yes--blue print dress (short), blue print dress (long), print top and black skirt

No--black top and leather skirt, black dress with X straps

Josh:

Yes--Purple opening dress, draped closing dress

No--Laced biker shorts, striped top with red jacket, green skirt, etc.

Best in show--I really think I have to give this to Kimberly's white pants and white feathered top. My lands, that was gorgeous. It stood out in all the good ways. I'd love to have that in my arsenal.

Worst in show--I have to give this to those hideous lace-up shorts of Josh's. I just cannot be convinced that they are attractive in any way, no matter what the judges said.

I hope to do a similar analysis after the decoy show, so stay tuned!

PR: Laura Laura Laura

2011-10-23T14:52:00.002-05:00

I haven't been around for a while, I admit. A lot has been going on with all kinds of tasks piled up, and I'm only getting to this blog now. I apologize.
Since last I posted, we had the mini-collection week and the home visits/3-looks trial.
The mini-collection week was kind of a bummer.
Anya's pieces were okay...I liked the understated structure to them. But the cinnamony two-piece look sort of reminded me of yoga wear and I didn't care for the pointy hem of her black dress, which just made it look like the dress was backward.
Viktor's pieces were highly praised. I really didn't care much for the blouse print he chose. I could see where it was coming from with the skyline thing, but the blouse looked kind of cheap to me.
Kimberly's looks...oh, sheesh. The silver dress was the only thing I liked. No, let me clarify. I liked the coat she made, but it looked slubby on the runway especially because it was so poorly styled. The third look, the orange top and silver skirt, were unsophisticated (Tom and Lorenzo call it out for hoochieness, which is accurate).
And then there is Josh. His looks were just silly. There were pieces that worked, like the white dress with the mesh, and maybe the striped top. But nothing else worked, and certainly not together. The runway judging at this point was equally ridiculous and ill-fitting.
But I'm really annoyed at the judging (and other comments made) of Laura. I loved Laura's pieces. I really did. I liked the circles and the extent to which they were used. I liked the sassiness of it, and the open fretwork of the top of the dress, with the black cap to the sleeve--I thought it was awesome. I could so rock a dress like that. And the dress they complained about looking like a pillowcase? Couldn't disagree more. The top didn't fit properly, it's true. But I liked the ease of it, and I saw the relationship between that dress and the other looks.
Thus, I was completely upset when Laura ultimately went home, after a total lambasting on the runway. In my view, Josh should have gone, and if the producers were really resistant, Kimberly. Laura has much more spunk to her looks, and a much more interesting point of view. Sure, her stuff is often "pretty," but since when is that a bad thing? Women like pretty clothes.

This whole situation (namely Laura's ousting) was made even worse when you sneak a peek at the collections, on nymag.com or Tom & Lorenzo's blog, for this reason: LAURA'S COLLECTION IS CLEARLY THE BEST. How depressing is that? Her collection is the only one with style and no real inconsistencies. There were one or two pieces I felt meh about, but I feel like Laura's "decoy" collection is the first collection I've really and truly loved in years. Literally years. In fact, Jay McCarroll is the only one I can think of that I really loved as much. The only one I remember, I should say. And guess what? While we don't always see eye to eye, Tom & Lorenzo agree with me. Can you beat that?

In some ways, I lost interest as soon as Laura was auf'd. I didn't really watch the home visits, though I turned in to the second half. I wanted to see who would go home. Surprise! No one.
Here's what happened:
Kimberly had a sleek sparkly dress (plus), a pair of blue pants (plus), a southwest top (minus), a boring blue top (minus), and a poofy pink skirt (minus).
Josh had a crazy muumuu jumpsuit (minus), a pair of pink pants (minus), a weird jacket (neutral), a print/mesh top (minus), and an ill-fitting black dress (minus).
Anya had a brown print dress (plus), a tan coverup (minus), a weird black swimsuit (minus), and a misshapen gold dress (minus).
Viktor had a flowy dress (plus), a white jacket (plus), a cool print dress (plus), a leather overskirt (minus), a pair of print pants (neutral), an embellished top (plus), and a black jacket (plus).
You can do the math. Viktor is obviously in. To my mind, Josh needs to exit, or Anya. Kimberly is safe.
And yet Kimberly and Anya are at the bottom. I will admit that Kimberly didn't pick the best looks from her collection to show the judges. The pieces didn't relate well. That being said, Josh's looks were all shady, whereas Anya had one adequate piece. I know the judges always want to see more Josh, because he's crazy, but they always seem to love Anya, too. I think the judges kind of missed the boat on Kimberly being at the bottom--I didn't necessarily care for what she had, but she does actually have a particular aesthetic that some people to respond to. I felt like the judges missing that is why she was on the bottom, whereas Josh's work, which supposedly has a point of view (even if that is something I don't want to look at) got a free ride.

Since Laura is gone, I couldn't win anyway, so I guess this past week was an academic exercise for me at best. I've seen all the collections and there are pieces I like from Viktor, Kimberly, and Anya. Maybe one or two of Josh's. But all have serious missteps as well. Judging might be interesting, but once again, I sort of feel like they should do what one of our Mid-American Review contest judges did once--reject the finalists we sent them and ask to see a different batch, and hand the crown to Laura.

PR: Dresses At Last!

2011-10-06T20:35:00.002-05:00

Let's have a look at the gimmicks from this week's episode:
Birds
Makeup brand emulating birds
Pairs, which turned into...
Head to head competition
Two looks
One high fashion look
But wait--only one look is being shown
Not one, but TWO makeup decision scenes.
20,000 dollar prize...and an advertorial

I'm really tired of the teaming up of the designers. This is yet another reason why I think the show is struggling. Sometimes they do it when it's not even related to or needed in the challenge. For this week, for instance, why pretend to team them up? Why not just announce that they are picking buttons for head-to-head competition? That whole scenario was clunky as composed.

Another of the things I'm tired of is the sketch and go to Mood, and then sketch again and go to Mood again. They've done that several times this season. Why not just put the designers on an obstacle course? If the goal is to exhaust them and then see what they create, surely there is a better way.

Project Runway challenge designers--YOU HAVE AN EDITING PROBLEM. Seriously. Is no one on the production team sitting back and saying, "That's too much. You have a lot of ideas, and I've seen this from you before. You need to edit"? If Nina Garcia is so tired of Josh M's overbedazzling everything, surely one of those people can see how his aesthetic translated to TV is crushing PR? Am I the only one thinking this?

Reality time: Birds and two looks would have been enough. Or why not birds to inspire a look to wear to a benefit, with head to head competition? Some of the gowns that have resulted would work for such an event.

In Viktor's look, I'm not a big fan of the frizz on the shoulder. Along the sides and skirt I think it's fine. The colors are lovely and soft. It's just that shoulder that strikes me as odd.
I prefer Kimberly's dress to Viktor's in its movement and its draping. I don't really see cockatoo inspiration in there, though. I'm confused on why she said Viktor was at fault for burning her dress--didn't she own that in the workroom? Anyway, I would wear this dress. Actually, seeing it closeup, I see that lightish pink in the skirt, which is good.
I'm not a big fan of Bert's look. The top layer of gray is a strange shade. I like the layering of the color underneath, but there's definitely a more African Gray parrot inspiration there as opposed to an Amazon. It's not actually that the top is gray that bothers me...it's the shade of gray. What annoyed me more about Bert is his dissing the bird. That just seems very whiny to me.

I liked Josh M's look better without the weird corsage. I like the back better than the front. In some strange way though, it kind of reminds me of a towel toga.
Anya went for structure, and it does have the raven structure in an inspired-by way. I wouldn't wear it, but it's interesting and I could see it on a runway. That's what high fashion is, really. Josh is very bitter about the model having to be cut out of the dress, but that, too, is common in fashion shows, not just on Project Runway.
Laura's look is very wearable, but the pant is kind of ho-hum. I like the organza peplum idea. I am not agreeing with the judges that it is too literally birdy. I don't think it's costumey, any more than anyone else's.
What I love more is Laura and Anya's compliments for each other.

My least favorite look this week was Bert's. I also hate to say this, but Laura's look suffered in comparison to others this week. It was different for her, and still wearable, but not great.

The right decision was made this week. Bert's exit was very classy, which made up for the fuss about the bird.

I did not watch the "After the Runway" show that followed this week's PR. No point--that's not why I watch PR.

PR: Throwback. Throw it back.

2011-10-03T13:02:00.004-05:00

Ah, the 70s.
This was not a good week, fashionwise, but is it any surprise? People keep wanting to revisit 70s and 80s fashion, but...they're not good, people. There are fun elements in both, but they just are not that worthy of being remade. Even modernizing them seems sort of weird. Sure, put some legwarmers or bell bottoms on. But revisiting the aesthetic of those eras? It's just an odd choice.

Anyway, here's what we had:
Anthony Ryan--This reminds me of his collection from Fashion Week--sad and shabby looking. The dress was very bohemian, but even so the colors just didn't feel right. I like red and grey together, but to do it you really have to have crispness, and that was lacking.
Anya--Anya's top had nice detailing with the pleats. I would have liked to see something done with the print fabric that was less busy. Up close, the pattern is quite nice, but as pants it's too overwhelming, and the fabric didn't move well in that shape. The jumpsuit shape was all right, but I wasn't keen on that print choice.
Bert--I don't know, guys. That first outfit was just odd. It was too referential. It made me think of Xanadu. The little dress was cute, and it grew on me, though it was a little nippy for the runway. I was wondering if the gold might have been a better choice for the front, but then the white would get dirty when sat on. I noticed the hem was a little wonky.
Josh M.--It's a look that is obviously JM, therefore, I can't stand it. I thought it was odd that Heidi was so in for Bert's whackadoo avant garde look, but then couldn't get behind Josh's pants. That whole outfit looked more 80s, maybe early 90s to me. The dress was fine, though bunchy at the bust.
Kimberly--I don't get the weird midriff baring thing with this. I thought the skirt was fine. The jumpsuit, though? It didn't look well made up top. These two looks were both kind of bewildering for me.
Laura--I actually really liked Laura's jumpsuit. Subtle it was, but it looked comfortable and flattering, as well as new. That's pretty much the only way I'd wear a jumpsuit. I wasn't excited about her top with the skirt look, though I thought the top was all right.
Viktor--Viktor's looks were obviously the most polished, but I thought they were kind of dull. The dress is okay, though I'm not keen on the snakeskin. I actually liked the tee shirt with the dress pants idea. That is something I would do. And have done. I thought the jacket should have been longer--it looks a little juniory. I thought a slightly longer-than-normal jacket would say more safari and also be a wink at the 70s.

This week, I can't really agree with Laura Bennett, who would have sent Josh M home over Anthony Ryan. Did Josh M make a hideous outfit? Yes. But Anthony Ryan's outfit was more awful, frankly. I loved Anthony Ryan's effort to help Anya, and I'm no fan of Josh M, but the issue here is still that the crazy vest and top AR made was crazier than Josh M's crazy pants and (80s) top.

That's all I got this week. I finally have a couple of nights of free time (I think) and I'm going to work on a few projects, get some plans done and maybe start testing things. That's after I wash the dishes that have piled up for days now.

PR: Rock It?

2011-09-23T16:24:00.002-05:00

Oh, goodness.
The challenge for this week's Project Runway was a great idea--each designer was assigned a band member to make a look for, and worked with a stylist to make him look good. The band is an unsigned one, so there aren't any real preconceived notions to live up to. And, for the runway, the band would play in its garb, one team at a time.
Sure, they're men, and that's where the panic sets in. But I really liked the challenge and I really felt it was a step up for Project Runway this season.
The results...well, I think we all could have predicted, based on past performance, that the final designs would be less than exciting.
Anythony Ryan basically made a sleeveless top and cream pants...for himself. His print, though, was one of the least offensive.
Anya's pants were falling apart, and her shirt looked like a home ec project
Bert's striped pants were kind of rockerish, and therefore acceptable, but the shirts were muddy-looking and decidedly not rockerish. I dug the braids, though.
I could not believe the judges went so gaga over Josh M's look. The pants without the pockets might have been acceptable, but that vest was ridiculous. It had slit puffed sleeves of fringe.
Whoever compared Kimberly's look to Scooby Doo was right on--the only one-liner I could tolerate in the judging. The idea of the shirt was there, but it really didn't fit.
Say what you will about Laura, I liked the pants and the jacket and scarf on her guy. Without the fringe, though. Fringe was completely unnecessary. I liked her color-scheme, though, and her pieces were the most modern.
My tribe is in complete agreement that Olivier needed to go. Anyone who has such a ludicrous idea of what a designer's job is and what a person should be needs not to be in the industry and given no more attention.
Viktor won for his jacket. Sure, his jeans fit, but their upper fit was still pretty feminine, and the shirt--well, I'm pretty sure I've seen fabric like that sold for dresses. I wasn't a big fan on the headband. On the whole, not surprised Viktor won.
I could NOT tolerate Kors this week. He needs to be replaced. I seriously wondered if he was going senile or on medication or something. Is he there for (unfunny) comic relief or to make incisive comments about design? He has no purpose any longer and I've lost all respect for him at this point.
In fact, I'd kind of like Kors and Nina both to be replaced. I don't have any real beef with Nina except that it feels like she's said all she could. She bores me.

So--feeling flat from this week? Why not head on over to nymag.com and look at some of the spring Ready-to-Wear lines? I watched Burberry's Prorsum show on their website last night, and looked at the pictures on nymag. Some of the coats and clothes are to die for, and they have this great belts with the trenches. But what stole my heart was the pink trenchcoat. It is so perfect I seriously almost started weeping. It was a fashion epiphany.

Go on...have a look at the shows. And then tell me what you like!

PR: What Size Is Your Wife?

2011-09-15T20:11:00.009-05:00

Tonight I thought I'd do a PR live blog, because I have a laptop and I can do hip things like that now!

The Challenge:

So--the challenge is for the designers to make garments for women based on their significant others' suggestions. Couples as clients. Because that's going to go well.

Olivier just said he doesn't like women to have boobs, because they mess up the line of designs. So, he's completely off my interest list. I guess I would fit his aesthetic, but complaining about a woman because her body doesn't fit his designs is just ridiculous. Dude. Clothes are for people. People come with different shapes. Women are not hangers.

Also, some of these guys are kind of nuts. You're really going to talk about motorboating your wife's bust on national TV? I don't know if this is a sign of discomfort being in a design room, like they have to assert their masculinity, or if it's discomfort being on camera, or if they really are just brutish.

Enter Tim Gunn.

Wait--is Viktor done? His look is done. I like the shape. Not so much the color of that yellow.

Olivier and Bryce are clearly in trouble. I'm not sure what's up with Anya, and I didn't get a good look at anyone else's.

It's interesting to see Bert working so well with his client. He also seems more cheerful generally.

I don't know what's up with Anthony Ryan. (edited: Later I learned I was looking at the woman's actual clothes, not the clothes AR made. That explains it.)

Josh M is done, too, and he really brought it. I guess we figured out how to tame him. The black dress is sweet, and I love the back. I'd totally wear that. Laura may not be impressed, but I think it's lovely. Get that woman some pearls and a birdcage veil.

I told my students to use their handbook thoughtfully the other day.

Piperlime jewelry for the ladies! That must be to make them less angry that their men are talking about their bits and pieces on national TV.

Wow. Olivier's inexperience is really showing right now. Granted, his clients don't seem to be the easiest to work with, but he really seems to be incapable of making clothes for actual clients. People who aren't orderly and silent. People with, you know, needs. It reminds me of Worf's reaction to Keiko's labor on Star Trek: The Next Generation's episode "Disaster."

The Runway:

Laura--Pretty color for the lady. The dress is a little conventional to me, though. I'm not surprised that it was deemed safe. It had design features, but features that are not that uncommon.

Anthony Ryan's look is better on the runway, but still a little too simple.

Bert's look seems a little trashy to me. I guess that fits the husband's motorboating needs.

Josh M's look is Perfect. So darling.

Bryce--Remaking the dress was probably wise, but it's not great. The back adds a little interest, I guess, but it's not that unusual a back.

Kimberly's skirt is too short. The top is cute, but I'd rather see a pant on the lady, just to balance out the high collar and give her a more svelte silhouette. I am against cramming a curvy lady into a too-short, trashy skirt. (Sister, maybe I've been letting Stacy and Clinton into my head after all.)

Olivier-- The top is shaped similarly to another top we've seen this season isn't it? Oh...the top of his dress in the avant garde challenge. What is that about? And Kimberly's top for Nina. Same fold theory.

Anya--What the heck? That midsection is crazy. I don't understand this outfit. I'm okay with the shape, and even the sleeve, but that belt...it's distracting.

Viktor's look is very complete. I still am not a big fan of that mustard color, but I do like the blouse quite a lot, and the shape as a whole. I wear that kind of silhouette myself.

On to the judging..Bert, Bryce, and Anthony Ryan on the bottom. Viktor, Josh M, and Anya on the top.

My favorite is Josh's dress. Sure, it's not the sassiest look out there, but it is beautiful and her eyes and smile show that she really loves that dress.

I would not be upset, though, if Viktor won. I like the pieces, and I like the fun.

Here we finally have some great clothes this week! At last!

I am not in favor of Anya winning. Sure, the look is original, but it's not as polished as the other two.

Our guest judge kind of hit the nail on the head hinting that the husband's desires drove the design, as far as Bert's look goes. I don't know that I'd trust a man to make a fashion decision for me that way.

Bryce was on to something with the pockets. I agree with Nina that the dress is overworked. I disagree with Heidi about the pocket size--I think that actually adds some edge. It would be less noticeable if the top was better fitted and a different style. It could have been made sassier.

I would hate Anthony Ryan to be kicked out for this look. However, the dress is lacking some charm for the client. There is something reminiscent of some 40s tennis dresses, but it didn't quite have the proportion right.

The Results:

Joshua M. is the winner, and I am glad. I'm not a Josh fan, BUT that dress is incredibly right.

Bryce is out. I am not surprised. He has struggled so much. He seems like a nice guy, but like Fallene, he was sort of having a crisis of confidence piling up over weeks.

Shoot. Another team challenge next week? And menswear. *sigh*

And finally, a PSA--if you are ever thinking of watching Dance Moms, the show after Project Runway, DON'T. It will kill your soul. Even ten seconds of the show made my heart hurt. Children should NEVER EVER be in a dance environment like that.

PR: There's no f, u, or n in TEAM

2011-09-09T16:26:00.002-05:00

Oh, brother. It's a little hard to write the blog this week. I started watching PR, then put it on mute. I saw the collections from the teams of 5, and saw some things I liked and most that I didn't. I really couldn't get behind the prints the designers made--all were black and white, and they lacked anything really special. I liked the clock idea of the Nuts & Bolts team, and the Rorshach idea of the Chaos team, but ultimately felt very little inspiration from either side. I know they have very little time to do this, and I also know that groupthink can water ideas down in the efforts toward compromise. But I just don't get how the make-your-own-print challenges keep turning out such lackluster or even anemic fabrics. And why writing on the prints? It's too easy, just like the patterns of lines are.

I liked:

Viktor's dress. I think he managed to keep it from looking like a cow print, and I liked the fluidity of the skirt.

Anthony Ryan's skirt. It was perky and had some visual appeal.

Becky's jacket. I liked it better than Josh's. In fact, Becky's outfit seemed to have the most practical usage. It wasn't very exciting, but I liked it better than, say, Bryce's look.

Josh's jacket, with reservations. I have to admit I liked it better on the mannequin.

I did not like:

The flatness of Olivier's pieces. Again. I admire that he puts everything into crafting a garment, but he also tends to fixate too much, I think, and his palette once again was dull.

Kimberly's weird skirt and boring blouse. The shortness of the skirt was not the problem. It looked like she was wearing a bowling bag. Such a peculiar silhouette.

Josh's pants. Period.

Bryce's shorts and slouchy top. There is no fashion here at all. Boring pieces in a lazy-looking style.

Anthony Ryan's top. There was something sort of touristy about it...like a stewardess or a wrangler. Those things are very different and I can't defend why the top reminded me of both of them, but it did.

Laura's jumpsuit. I don't care for jumpsuits, and I didn't see any connection between a blue jumpsuit and a clock dress. It seemed very Laura, but also seemed like jumpsuits we've seen before.

I don't really have an opinion about Bert's clock dress. I liked the zipper idea, but something about the dress as a whole was kind of dull.

I also thought Anya's dress was okay, but not very exciting. It was certainly wearable, but it wasn't breathtaking or unique.

I have to say, and I've hinted at this before, that I think sportswear is killing Project Runway. Kors gets so excited about it, but honestly, the show has been too focused on it, and it's not hard to understand why so much of what has been produced this season, and perhaps the last, has fallen flat.

Contestants used to tell us that so many garments didn't have sleeves because sleeves take time. Yet many of these designers were producing exciting looks. Now, contestants are making pants and tailored jackets and sleeved tops. They're taking so much time doing so that nothing really interesting or inspired takes place. When you're making a tailored jacket and a pair of pants, it's really hard to change direction midstream, or to change your design to fit a new idea. The actual design part of Project Runway is very short. Far more time is spent on actually making the pieces.

I do think sportswear is important. But it's not that interesting to look at, and I think it's hard to do anything really new in its design. Sure, Olivier made a nice jacket this week. But is that jacket really any different from jackets we've seen in fashion for years? It was well made, but it wasn't innovative in design. No one this week made anything that one could obsess over.

No one told the designers this week to make so much sportswear. Nor have they done so any other week. But separates have gotten the praise from the judges, and presumably they were in the portfolios of the contestants selected. Thus, it's become a part of the culture of the show. There are all kinds of other reasons why PR has been struggling, but I think this week was a great example of boring sportswear separates that we have seen over and over.

PR: Avant Garde and Young People

2011-09-02T16:01:00.003-05:00

The Avant Garde Project Runway challenge is hit or miss. Sometimes it's intriguing and educational, and sometimes it's a mess. This year, for whatever reason, I got engaged when I heard it was the AG challenge, because I thought maybe we'd finally get some fashion, some risk-taking. We didn't, always, but this was on the whole a less frustrating episode than last week.
I enjoy having the designers collaborate creatively with young people. Sure, they don't always like kids, these designers, but it was fun to hear kids articulate their artistic process and vision. I think this was meant to be a feel-good episode, as edited, anyway, and I'm okay with that. Others have noticed how much better designers got along this week, though it seems we're in an explosion again next week.

Anthony Ryan--I liked the idea of brush stroke translation, and I liked AR's look the best, I think. It wasn't really Avant Garde so much, unless the sheer fabric of the underdress was to count as the experimental part, but it did have a point of view. I'm pleased that he won
Anya--Half a costume from CATS, half a hiked up Renaissance skirt...and I kind of dig that. It was definitely a little weird, in the sense that it seemed to have multiple personalities, but sometimes that's the point of avant garde.
Becky--Denim with blocks, squares, and holes. That pretty much summed up the dress. It was safe, better than some of the other looks out there, but definitely not a contender for an avant garde winner.
Bert--Raise your hands, people who predicted that Heidi would like this. As much as I hated this Tweedledee nightmare, I knew Heidi would be okay with it. This is the type of thing that people do send down runways sometimes, things which make me laugh at the fashion industry. Go on. Go to Google Image and type in avant garde fashion. I'll wait. And I think the fact that it is sort of like some of those disasters is what saved Bert. I'm wondering if Heidi's experience as a model kicked in here. I'm sure she's worn equally foolish things.
Bryce--Bryce was my least favorite this week. Much like last week, the construction was horrifying. Sure, a straightjacket mermaid dress is pretty avant garde, but the cut and fit were bad, the movement droopy, and as a result I was sure he would be out. And yet...not.
Josh C.--I secretly think Josh was onto something better with his first idea. While more literal, it was a bit more interesting to try to translate a wolf into fashion. I liked the idea of leaving the heart bare, just like the painting. I can't help wondering what would have happened if we'd gotten an over-the-top faux fur skirt. Also...I quite liked the blouse. It had an interesting shape and neat pleats.
Josh M.--Ok. Take a minute, go to Rate the Runway, and look at the picture of Josh M's design. Does his model not look like a drag queen? There's nothing wrong with being a drag queen, but it's not really indicative of avant garde fashion. I thought this outfit belonged squarely in the middle. It wasn't really that engaging to me. Just very voluminous.
Kimberly--Okay. Let's take that furryfeathery stuff and make a skirt out of it for Josh C's outfit...Now. I wasn't excited by Kimberly's look, but I didn't dislike it either. It wasn't terribly memorable, I guess that's my problem for an avant garde challenge. It was a dark version of a party dress.
Laura--This dress kind of reminded me of my Peaches and Cream Barbie doll for some reason. I'm not really buying the visible boning versus the chiffon as being avant garde. That being said, I thought the dress was fun to look at, and would make an interesting component of a runway show with a similar stripe running through it. In that regard it was successful, and more memorable than other runway looks.
Olivier--Olivier survived this week. Barely. I think it's because the judges recognize that he does have skills. And for once I agreed with Kors when he exhorted Olivier not to be afraid to be powerful. His dress this week really was just a whirlwind of fabric tacked together. Very disappointing.
Viktor--There are elements I liked about Viktor's blue and white swirled confection, and elements I didn't care for. But I could easily see a singer wearing this outfit at the VMAs or onstage, which tends to be a little funky if not avant garde.

PR: Good Idea? Bad Idea.

2011-08-26T13:49:00.003-05:00

It's time for another Good Idea/Bad Idea.
Actually, it's not, because nothing about this week's Project Runway episode was a good idea, and judging from the responses I've seen, NO ONE thought this week was any good.
Let's explore the roll call of bad decisions.

1.Another Heidi Klum for New Balance challenge. As I blogged last October, last season's New Balance challenge was one of the worst in PR history, and the show itself was disappointing. Bullying, drab fabrics, and the return of past contestants...wait, am I describing this year's HKNB challenge? Because all three of those elements dominated this year, too. I'm not down on New Balance. I've worn their shoes. But HK's line is not really that interesting, despite its pricetag. Certainly not interesting enough for two challenges of a fashion-based TV show. And this year's materials? Denim and suede. Be still, my heart. Just because there is the possibility of a business tie in, that does not mean it should be tied in.

2. That Klum et al. then blamed the designers for uninspired and bizarre results is just exhausting. As Kors would say, "Listen": If more than once you get drab results, the problem probably really is you, not the designers. This is especially true when you consider the public reaction to last season's challenge, and all the ho-hums that came because of the line itself.

3.It's all fun and games until someone loses an eye--or falls down. Designers are not exactly stationary, but asking them to race? I have problems with this on several levels:

a. Sexism. Women can run fast, but on average, men can run faster. And designers would certainly be average across the board. Thus, males have a distinct advantage.
b. Ageism.
c. Safety. Asking inexperienced people to run a race for leadership is simply unsafe. Remember when they had the designers skate? That was silly but only slightly risky. A tottery skater is much less likely to do damage than a non-athlete running at full pace, without athletic supervision. Olivier's fall was inevitable, and the producers should be thanking whatever gods they pray to that it wasn't worse.

4. Finally, in what is supposedly "her" challenge, Klum gets overruled in the judging. Yet another instance of credibility issues in the judging, or at least the presentation of it to the public. Garcia conveniently chooses to judge based on past episodes--it's funny how that form of judging versus judging what's on the runway are interchanged, isn't it? We can't know what else went on during judging (and truly, the editing of the judging this week was weird in itself), but the effect was sounding like Garcia trumped Klum, whether or not that was actually the case.

The fashion itself was predictably bad, and the attitudes worse. If I were a conspiracy theorist, I would wonder if Lifetime or another shadowy collective were trying to kill Project Runway.

Here are the current scores, for the curious, for Rate the Runway:
Anthony Ryan 1.36
Bert 3.11
Anya 3.32
Becky 2.08
Bryce 3.18
Danielle 1.71
Josh C. 2.69
Josh M. 2.79
Kimberly 3.29
Laura 2.28
Olivier 2.26
Viktor 3.82

Did Viktor deserve the win? I think so. While I question the type of jacket, it and the dress were clearly well constructed and appropriate for the sneakers, at least from a certain point of view (including mine--I favor a casual dress and sneakers on occasion).
Did Josh M. also deserve the win? No. The dress he won for was attributed to Anya, clearly. He was also praised for good leadership when he demonstrated many judgment lapses. For instance, dowdygate. I have praised Becky's looks on several occasions, and others of my friends have also expressed support for her. I am not "forty to death." Thus, Josh M. not only went out of his way to insult Becky, but he also insulted her legions of fans. I don't care for his aesthetic either, generally speaking.
And why split the win anyway? Viktor had a clearly viable outfit. Other pieces on the runway--Bert's top, Olivier's top, Kimberly's (?) jacket--were acceptable, but Viktor to me was the obvious winner for the challenge as a whole. To give anyone else a share of the win was perplexing, to say the least.

I don't know who all reads this blog. But if any producers come across this entry, please listen--not just to me, but to the vast PR Nation that has been loyal, even through struggles. This challenge was bad. It was bad last year, and it is still bad. Some circumstances of the show are out of your control, but this isn't. If you want this show to continue, and to rebuild a sense of being respected, then you need to take it back to the roots for creativity, not just the designers', but your own.

PR: Nina's Day-to-Night Adventure

2011-08-19T13:49:00.002-05:00

Confession: I did not actually watch all of this episode. I recorded it, but I managed to turn it on right when the runway show was about to start. Watching that last half hour was the most important part for this blog, especially since I read the other PR blogs on mylifetime.com.
Since my concern is generally the fashion results, I'm good to go.
The challenge was to design a look for Nina that she could wear all day, at the office and then at some industry event. There were a lot of prize components, and a lot of judges. Let's see how things came out (and once again I've listed the scores-to-date from Rate the Runway).

Anthony Ryan (2.86)--the fabric choice seemed on, but this look was kind of plain, and the shape too round, meaning it wasn't quite fitted enough. This black-and-white outfit would be better for a lunch out than day-to-night.
Anya (3.24)--I liked the top back of Anya's jumpsuit, and I'm glad for her that her dyeing came out well. However, I'm really not into jumpsuits in general and I cannot see Nina in this piece. It was just a bit too young--not that Nina is old, just that she'd look like a junior in this piece instead of a superior.
Becky (3.53)--I have to say, this is my favorite look. It's the only one that made me go, "Yes." Maybe it's not super fashion-forward, but it's not fashion-backward, either. I wish this would have gotten more love, because frankly I loved it and I thought it would have looked fun on Nina, too, but without beeing too youthful.
Bert (2. 63)--Two words: Crotch slit. Yes, there was some merit to the shape of the neckline and shoulders, but that crotch slit was absurd. I normall don't comment on references, but this dress seemed derivative to me, like a wannabe Holly Golightly.
Bryce (1.88)--Someone please tell me how Bryce did not get called out this week. Sewing problems don't always show up on the runway, but that hem stood out miles off. It also was very like dresses we've seen on the runway before, only in a less skilled version. Andy South had a similar shape in the couture vs. ready-to-wear show, and I pointed out that it was a little juniory. On top of all of that, it would be a disaster for Nina.
Cecilia (1.44)--Kind of surprised, like everyone else, that Cecilia didn't go home this week (although really it should have been Bryce). The dress had no shape. I mean, that yellowish fabric wasn't terrible. Something chic could have been made with it. Even that striped trim sort of idea could have worked with a better neckline. In any case, Cecilia sounded exactly like Fallene this week.
Danielle (1.94)--Danielle should have been safe this week, not in the bottom. Sure, there's nothing great about this outfit, but it is at least wearable, unlike Bryce's dress. No, Coles, it does not look like something a mother would wear in the kitchen while making babyfood. No, Kors, it does not look like the 80s. (These judges--honestly, it's like they live on the moon. They have no idea what the populace wears.) There was some design in the blouse that I could respect.
Josh M. (2.64)--Coral and grey. *sigh* The shape of this dress was good for Nina, and I can see why he thought it would appeal to her, but this was another look that fell in the middle. It's just a little too punk, not really for the challenge.
Julie (1.78)--As evidenced by the PR blogs and various other opinions, Julie's outfit was not that bad. I openly acknowledge that it didn't fit the challenge, and I was not at all into the creamsicle color of the sleeve. But the shape was cool on the wrapped-over side, and it does take some skill to block things together that way. It was flawed, yes, and it could have gone better, but it was not the disaster the judges made out, particularly in comparison to some others.
Kimberly (3.73)--I don't get it. She made a sci-fi top and she won. Even a slightly dated sci-fi top. The shape of the bottom of the top I like, the draping of the wraplook side. I also think I would have liked the top more if it had been in another fabric. Someone said it was gold brocade, but it doesn't look like it. The pants are very nice (they're navy, by the way), but that's what Kimberly does, just as Terri did. I will also admit that Nina looked nice in the outfit as a whole, and it photographed well. From the viewpoint of fitting the challenge, that's great for Kimberly. But that fabric...
Laura (2.66)--I liked this better on the runway than in the still photos. The idea of the dress was solid, but little flaws stand out, like the over-bunchiness at the waist, the shortness of the top skirt panel, and the fact it doesn't really say day to me. I guess in the end I want to like this more than I do.
Olivier (2.25)--Remember what I said about that line between subtle and too subtle? Yeah. Olivier lives there, and this time, he crossed the line into, "What is this?" The sewing didn't seem as skilled, but more than that this look doesn't meet the half of the challenge aimed at evening fashion events. This outfit, like some of the others, also indicated poor use of shoulder padding, or cuts that look like shoulder padding.
Viktor (2.81)--The shape here was good for Nina, but that black is kind of dull. It also made the exposed zipper very obvious. The skirt dart horizontally was kind of interesting. This outfit more than the others made me think of Nina, despite the color. It's also interesting to look at Viktor's outfit and Bert's side by side. This one is much more sensible.

So--let's recap.
The judges' favorites:
Kimberly, Viktor, Anya
The judges' least favorites:
Julie, Cecilia, Danielle

The popular vote favorites:
Kimberly, Becky, Anya
The popular vote least favorites:
Cecilia, Bryce, Julie

My favorites:
Becky, Viktor (for Nina, not for me)
My least favorites:
Bryce, Cecilia

PR: Up High!

2011-08-12T17:28:00.002-05:00

...also known as Project Awkward.

The Challenge:

I get what the PR producing team wanted to do--set forth a crazy, "What on Earth" kind of challenge, the kind where you can't help wondering how anyone could deal with such a bizarre set of parameters and produce anything fabulous. Often, as in the case of the women wrestlers (pic from Fashion Me Fabulous), you get some pretty sweet fashion. Other times, like this one, we get a serious misstep.

This was probably the awkwardest show in PR history, not just the first to have an outdoor runway. Stiltwalkers are known for their unexpected grace, their awe-inspiring freedom of movement, unbelievable walking with what should send them tumbling. But in addition to the costume drama on the runway, the movement itself seemed...er...sorry, but...stilted. The ladies often ended up almost staggering, and looked uncomfortable, which ruined the effect of many of the garments in addition to the effect of the skill itself.

Thus, while this whole shebang could have ended up genius, I think that the risk was too much. There was too little chance for this to go right, and it really didn't.

As far as the ousting, I think Fallene's departure was inevitable. She had a crisis of confidence that was too great to surmount. ALL of the designers struggle with confidence at one point or another, but Fallene made the error of forgetting the skills she does have, and her little wink of humor, and not brazening through the more difficult moments (like the runway show). Just as she did last week, she put herself out the door, this time for keeps. I'm disappointed, because I like Fallene, and I hope that she finds her niche.

The fashion:

For fun, I've listed the current online score from Rate the Runway.

Josh and Julie (2.45)--There was a definite Mondo vibe with those pants, and I'm surprised the judges panned them as much as they did. I will admit they screamed, "I am a stiltwalker." I thought the jacket was cute on the bare-armed side, but I did note the whole thing was too costumey. If they'd stuck to the shape (but not the decor) of the bare-armed side with the other side and did a different fabric (less shiny) for the top, there would have been a more referential than literal matador feel, which would have been more relatable.

Bert and Viktor (1.63)--See below for my defense of damask. I defend the top in general, with reservations. The bottom, though, was a circus tent. Actually, there's a pretty trim pair of pants under that swoopdy stuff. Can you imagine a sleeker top, in perhaps a different color, with those pants, and perhaps a set of saucy panniers? I can. But this isn't Project Makover.

Bryce and Fallene (1.58)--Okay. You all know I love a tutu. What Bryce produced was not a tutu. It was a lump of tulle fastened together. Like last week's lump, it had no shape or viability as a graceful garment. It wasn't even a modern re-envisioning of a tutu. The tanktop, rightfully pointed out, looked like ballet warm-up clothes. Now, despite what I just said above, if we'd had a longer sweep of tulle, not lumped but draped, less obvious pants (obvious meaning they look like pants any stiltwalker could pick up at the local Tall shop), with a coy sweep of that burgundyish fabric folded in with the tulle skirt, we might have had something, particularly with that hat. We would have had a party frock, not a...whatever we have.

Becky and Kimberly (3.49)--Their collar got panned, but I liked the collar better than the sleeve. I think it gave the right life to the outfit, whereas the sleeve took it in an overly costumey direction. One or the other, not both. The pants were interesting, and impressive. Seaming them as Kimberly did was a smart move. The look gave me a Steampunk vibe, which I appreciated. Slap a gear watch on the girl, give her a cane, and she's ready to go. I actually like it even better now I look at it in the still pictures.

Olivier and Anya (2.69)--While I like subtle, this week was not the time for it. The garment did not read well on the runway at all, as the fabric choices were too muted. The skirt had a print with color, but in that quantity and outside, it looked muddy. Didn't they say they wanted to do something a little punk? I didn't see anything punk about this. It actually reminded me of an early-season Star Trek: TNG costume. I just had deja vu...I said something similar about April's outfit for Heidi's line.

Cecilia and Danielle (2.51)--My first thought was, "They made actual clothes." I actually liked the flow of the pants. In fact, I'm still trying to figure them out (see above re: how on Earth?). They worked out, perhaps miraculously. The color of the top I liked, but the shape--no. The shape was a little too something, or a little not quite something enough. No hairstyle would have taken away the high, folded and bejewelled collar and the tiny back.

Laura and Anthony Ryan (3.76)--I think, when it came out, we all knew this was going to be the best look. I'm a sucker for red, and Heidi was too this week. The look had good flow, and I loved the shoulder treatment, which took attention away from the length of the legs/stilts. They succeeded in distracting us from the extremity, which I think was kind of the point of the challenge. Their model rocked it, of course, which helps, but even with its flaws of fit this was still pretty clearly the most visually arresting (in a good way) ensemble. (Pic from Stylelist.com)

One final thought: I have noticed for ages that the judges are anti-anything that looks like damask. I know that it often is used for home furnishings, but I like damask, and refuse to budge on that point. I actually liked the top fabric of Bert and Viktor's garment, and I wish the judges would let go of their preconceptions about this. They let other fabrics slide without comment (did not Olivier's top last week look like it might be a rug?), and the same should be granted to damask.

PR: The Littlest Pet Shop

2011-08-08T16:35:00.002-05:00

...also known as "when Laura agrees with me again."
http://www.mylifetime.com/shows/project-runway/blogs/laura-bennett-blog/season-9-episode-2-recap
I like unconventional materials, and I really think no challenge has come close to that first breathless scamper through the grocery store in season one. Pet stores have a lot of promise, though, and it got me thinking what other unconventional places Project Runway could commandeer. A bookstore? A Renaissance Festival? A school room? What zany ideas do you have?
I watched this episode with my mom and failed to ask her opinion on the pieces, as I was feverishly writing notes. I regret that. Sorry, Mom.

Anthony Ryan--I love the collar. The dress shape/fit (mainly the bottom half) wasn't so great, but the neck of the garment is eye-catching in a good way. It looks feisty and not vulgar.
Anya--The leash skirt was cool. I really wasn't a fan of the top. The look seemed complete (see note below re: styling), but the top looked a little too much like a craft project.
Becky--The top of this excited me when it emerged from behind the scrim on the runway. The dress as a whole, though, was too parrotlike. What might have been cool (and of course there was no time for this) was that top with a long, slim gown skirt, of deeper green leaves. But the point is not to make over a garment, is it?
Bert--The look was basically a boudoir babydoll made of actual fabric. I hate when a designer disdains a challenge, especially one that is part of the essence of the show. It's a challenge. I am hoping for Bert to get a wake-up call (despite Heidi's warning, I feel pretty sure he learned nothing) down the road, because I do want him to do well.
Bryce--If you want to make a floofy blue skirt, make a floofy blue skirt. But for heaven's sake, make it happy. This outfit was so heavy, top and bottom, and thus shapeless. I really thought Bryce would go on this one.
Cecilia--There is an interesting contrast between Cecilia and Olivier that I want to point out here and in Olivier's entry. Cecilia's piece was not transformational enough. It was more of "look what I pulled off"--a trick. There is no subtlety of color, and while the fit was good, the movement was not. Thus, this look ended up being a bit ugly, while Olivier's had a more intuitive style.
Danielle--The color sense for Danielle is better this week. The rope top was kind of interesting, but the look as a whole read merely competent rather than eye-catching. Something about it made me think of Gretchen from last season.
Fallene--I cry foul on Fallene's behalf (and here is where Laura Bennett and I agree). Her dress was not bad, and I don't agree that the palette was off-putting. It's a fall piece, sure, but it's not Halloweenish. One could argue that I've spent too long in Falcon country, but I actually think the dress is cute--and a much more appealing color option than, say, spring's lime green and lemon yellow. It also made me think of Gretchen, though more for color than shape. I do think Fallene short-circuited herself by not defending her look, especially because it wasn't bad. She should not have been on the bottom (also see below note).
Josh C.--Oh, Josh C. You got me again. The outfit seemed safe at first look--not intricate or particularly endearing, but, I thought, safe. Then I saw the puppies. Unlike the hurling clown of last week, the puppies did not function as a wry touch of something extra. Instead it was something I kind of wish I hadn't spotted. Even so, and even though the standards thus far seem a bit higher than last season, I didn't think it was Josh C.'s week to go home, especially since designers before have been in the bottom twice in a row and then ended up pulling out something amazing.
Josh M.--Bert is in the 70s and Josh M. is in the 80s. I am not a fan of neon at the best of times, but I did think this look had Heidi written all over it. I also give a nod to the fact that the look was shiny, which would not have been easy with the materials available. Anthony Ryan had his beading look, and Josh M. had his sequins. Even so, I did not prefer this look.
Julie--A few PR bloggers have praised Julie's look, but I do not. I love the child's book The Paper Bag Princess, but now was not the time for it. The draping just didn't work. I remember a few people doing better work with weaving in the past, and I was sorry that Julie didn't pull it off.
Kimberly--I liked the right side of the bust on Kimberly's top, the smoothly coiled side. The other side looked like a tangled boat line. I might have liked to see more of the coiled rope or chain or whatever, because in that electric blue it was really eye-catching.
Laura--What the what? The top's weaving wasn't quite tight enough, and the skirt ended up ho-hum in its final incarnation. Laura talks a big game, but this was not a very fulfilling look. It looked hasty. Thus, while it had a distinct concept, its execution was under par.
Olivier--Okay, now let's talk about Olivier. His look, unlike Cecilia's, felt deliberate. They had a similar theory, but O's style was stronger. The fit was bulbous, I'll grant you, which is why I favored Anthony Ryan. But there is something here that suggests subtlety (eyebrows aside) and art.
Viktor--I liked the color shading here. The dress was simple, but attractive, and it was, in a word, tasteful. It was my second favorite, I think.

Three further notes:

While I do not necessarily trust public taste, it is sometimes illustrative to go through the Rate the Runway pictures on mylifetime.com and see the average ratings. At this point, the top look is Anthony Ryan, followed by Viktor and Anya. The bottom look is Bryce, just edging Bert, and then Julie. Fallene is in sixth place (of fifteen) and Olivier is in tenth. Thus, while I don't know how representative this is of America in general, or fashion gurus in particular, it is rather intriguing.

Has anyone noticed that the question, "Where is she going?" keeps popping up this season? I kind of hate that question. I understand its purpose, but it ignores the fact that there are events of all types, while insisting that there is a "right" thing to wear to a particular event. I would hate it less if it were acceptable for designers to spin a concise but creative scenario for the client. Take Fallene's dress, for example: I have a friend who is the wife of a country singer. She would look adorable in that dress at one of his concerts in a large bar, with some sweet boots. "Fashion" does not mean "urban" and Project Runway has made that mistake before.

I've also noticed how much emphasis there has been on styling so far. It escalated with Irina and Gretchen and seems to have come to the forefront. I'm undecided on this--I know it can sway an outfit's reception, and add to the above idea of the shadowbox of a character being created. Yet I don't want this to be too emphatic on packaging a woman.

PR: Come As You Are

2011-07-29T13:46:00.002-05:00

Despite my disappointment and annoyance during the last several years, I have to admit I was interested about the opening episode of Project Runway last night. I wasn't stuck to the couch for most of it, instead working on packing until the runway show. That might be the best way for me to watch now. I can breeze in and out of the room and catch the most important stuff, the essence, and then enjoy the fashion part unimpeded by disgust at the flaws.
The judging process was a little bit different this year, but it's something I think they should have done for a few years prior, and at a larger scale: The early panels of past finalists sent people through with yes or maybe. Then, the main judges looked at the contestants' work and portfolios in New York. They sent 4 of 20 back home, which seemed like a weird number to me. In any case, as I said, I've often thought they should do this, as it gives a layer of professionalism to the proceedings and allows the judges and Tim to have some ability to fight for an intriguing contestant (although, admittedly, they had a few whims that were less defensible).
The challenge for the remaining 16 was typical PR fare, requiring the contestants to use their jammies and a sheet. I thought the ladies might have an advantage here, since typically they have better or at least more interesting textiles available for their night garments. Most of the designers, however, seemed to have unexciting pajamas. Seriously, people--pajamas are important. You need to sleep not just in things that are comfortable, but things that bring you pleasure. It doesn't have to be a fancy nighty, but I really think people should wear things that are pleasing to their eye somehow; even if it's lounge pants and a shirt, it should have some character...especially if you're going to be on TV with strangers.

In the final results, I noticed two things--First, the Kors effect: SO many separates. Second, there was a fine edge between mess and yes.

Anthony--I liked the top, and really thought it was wearable for a lot of women. The skirt? Yuck. Too short is too short, even if the textile is eye-catching. I was surprised he made the top 3 for this reason.
Anya--Did anyone notice that she basically has Andy's-from-last-season hair? Anyway, I was disappointed to see, already, that tiny top thing I hate. I did like the use of print and the architecture of the top, but it was so small! The pants were fine, but why a tab closure and zip in the back? Very odd.
Becky--This was actually my favorite look. I liked the button trim on top and the use of the color. I enjoyed the tucks in the skirt. There were certainly a few puckering issues here and there, mainly in back, but I thought this a nice, wearable but stylish garment.
Bert--I didn't know what to think of this. I wasn't surprised, I guess, that the judges picked it out and gave it the win; it had their aesthetic blended together, and I was glad for Bert. However, something about it troubled me. I liked the humor of the check print, and I think the top of the garment worked, but the skirt...no. The sewing seemed off and the skirt on the whole too slouchy and baglike. I will say that I am interested to see more of Bert's work and I'm glad to see an older contestant doing well.
Bryce--I felt like I should like this more than I did, because I like drapey sleeves. The top was too big, though, like a child in a paint smock.
Cecilia--Great color on the skirt, but Whiskey Tango Foxtrot (Thanks, Jill) on the length. This outfit had an appropriate concept, I think--not my style, but kind of urban clubby. The back, however (as one can see in the still photo on mylifetime.com) is a mess.
Danielle--Good color in the shorts, and I liked the pleating in the pockets. The fit of the shorts, however, was bizarre, and I could not get into them paired with a copper and black top. The outfit made no sense.
Fallene--There was a touch of humor here, which I like. The dress was simple, but pretty. It was safe, but had a bit of personality all the same. There was an indie vibe (not entirely because of the clown), which made me want to see more of Fallene's work.
Josh C.--This earned the second look award, which means that my first look and second look reactions were completely different. When I saw the top with the hoodie, I was intrigued. The shorts were poorly fit, but seeing the outfit, from the front, from the bust upwards, I thought Josh was onto something. Then I saw it during the questionning, and I realized my eyes (blinded by my love of red) missed a lot of wrong. Even so, I still like the hoodie.
Josh M.--I wrote "clean but flat." The look was very casual and dull, and I have to say the vest thing still looked like a sheet.
Julie--I thought Cecilia had the WTF all sewn up, but then Julie's top came out. It was a yellow and pink mess, and the fit of the pants at the waist was confusing. It was not the worst thing on the runway. Barely.
Kimberly--She claimed her top looked great, which was a head-scratcher. The top, like Josh M's, looked like a sheet still, and while I could see the sort of papillon thing she was aiming for, ultimately it looked like the model just didn't finish putting a top on.
Laura--This outfit had good movement, and I think Laura had the most interesting textiles to draw from. I actually quite like this outfit, and I would wear it, I think. I respond to fluidity and a hint of dark sexiness, a bit of smoulder, which is what this outfit had. That being said, I still like Becky's slightly more because it's a bit more unusual.
Olivier--Safe. That's all I got. This was another flat look with nothing that stood out or made it memorable.
Rafael--Didn't we all know this was a doomed contestant from the editing of the show? And then, when the outfit hit the runway, I just shook my head and curled my lip a little. The pants and shirt were both unflattering and made the model actually look bad. I couldn't believe the judges even had to discuss who would go home, especially because Rafael seemed uncertain about what was wrong. Fishscale design in the back of the shirt cannot save it this horror.
Viktor--The look, a white and black shirt dress, struck me as being a little 1999 department store, which was disappointing. In fact, I was trying to think of a catalog in which I have seen something similar, but I couldn't place it, because it's been so long since I've seen a copy of that catalog. Can anyone help me out here?

In all, I was okay with the judging this week, and I'm looking forward to more interesting challenges this season. Hope springs eternal, I guess, right?

In other news, I am moving. This has been my official break for the day!

In other other news, I wish Emily West Lowry the best of luck as she celebrates her Grand Opening tomorrow of her Waterville shop! I made curtains for the shop and had the pleasure of seeing some of Emily's work as she was getting the furniture set up. I can't wait to get in there when it's open for business and get me something feathery and pretty for my hair!

Move It!

2011-07-19T13:57:00.003-05:00

I'm moving soon. Not very far away, just a few blocks. But moving is moving, and requires the packing up of all the stuff I want to keep and the pitching of things I don't.

Today, for instance, I said goodbye to my college computer, which I built in '97. It served me well at the time, but it is ancient and takes up a lot of room for something that is unused.

I've also been using up half-empty bottles of lotion and bath wash, and will be tossing old bottles of nail polish that isn't really liquid anymore. And cosmetics I used to wear for dance recitals, or in the 90s.

I've been seeing to organization I should have done ages ago; I put addresses and phone numbers from little post-it notes into a wee address book. I put correspondence into one storage box and bills into another, and pitched a bunch of mutual fund prospectuses. I have a whole set of chores (mainly mail related) on my dining table that I will be attending to in the next week, or whenver it is cool enough in the apartment to do so.

I haven't always behaved. I also brought home some more shirts and bought a few pieces of furniture. Today, I will pick up my glorious aqua and gold chair from Pier 1. Gaze upon the Annie Wing Back Chair, you mortals! I also bought an outdoor papasan for my new porch, and some smaller items.

But as I pack box after box, I am finally starting to see progress. And I'm amazed at the sudden cavalier attitude I have toward letting some things go. This weekend I pitched the rug from my front door. It could be washed, but I've had it for ages, and got "enough" use out of it. I threw away a few half-used rolls of old contact paper. I even suspect that I will pitch the curtains that originally came with my second apartment, which have been on a shelf in the closet, and which frankly were in sorry shape when I moved in. I'm leaving the bathroom curtains and towels for the next tenant, since they match that particular bathroom.

So, I've learned that I'm not a hoarder. I have a lot of stuff, no question. I sometimes keep things for sentimental value, even when they are essentially useless. But this moving experience--my first in ten years, and certainly the most complex--is showing me that I am actually pretty sensible.

It helps to know that where I'm going there is a lot of storage space, far more than I have now. It helps to know the dimensions of the rooms, to have photographed them, drawn up graph paper floor plans, and drawn in furniture. It helps to have thought about the general color scheme for each room--green, light brown, cream, and white, with accents of lavender, for the bedroom. White and blue, with dark wood and accents of green for the living room. And so on.

Basically, I'm pretty excited about moving. It's going to be arduous, and the cleaning of my apartments is going to be atrocious (layers of dust and residue in some areas that aren't easily reached). I am also leaving a nest of sorts, a place I've gotten myself dug into, and a place that has treated me well for 10 years. It was my first (and second) apartment, after all, after growing up in one house for 18 years, and splitting time between that and two dorm rooms for the next four. But this new place is a "grown up" place, a place that will allow me to mature my lifestyle a little and feel more like I'm making progress.

I'm ready to make a new home.

P.S. Does anyone have any ideas for cleaning Venetian blinds, some metal, and some plastic? In a tiny apartment?

The Size Is the Limit

2011-07-01T15:37:00.002-05:00

Yesterday, after lunch with a friend, I headed out to Fallen Timbers, an outdoor mall of shops in Maumee. I didn't particularly need anything, but I wanted a little looksee through the "end of season" selection. I say end of season because stores like The Gap were already selling off their summer stuff, clearance style, in preparation to get new things in. I also discovered a new store, Charming Charlie, which is a large accessories store organized by color. I bought two large purses there, which is unlike me. I also bought two large hats at Dillard's and etc., elsewhere, so it really was quite a brazen, delightful spree.

It's the etc. I want to talk about, though: the clothes. Women have been moaning about the sizes in clothes for years, and not just about their own body size and shape. No, it's more and more about the frustration women feel when they are unable to identify their size from store to store. I experienced this frustration firsthand, in the most extreme way, on my Fallen Timbers adventure.

Theoretically, you should be able to fit into a size 6 dress in one store, go to another store, and fit equally well into their size 6. Of course, bodies have different characteristics and components of different sizes. Everyone's body is different, and it is indeed difficult to be one size from head to toe. A woman with large hips may have a small chest, and vice versa. A woman with well developed calves may have poorly developed arms. A woman with a long torso may have short legs. You get the picture. Thus, there will be some garments near one's size that just won't fit.

It is also true that, from store to store, a slight variation would be natural, depending on makers of clothing. This is particularly true for a Misses' store versus one that caters more to juniors and young women (Forever 21, for example). Women of all ages shop there, but the sizes are juniors. As Wikipedia delicately phrases it, juniors' clothes have "higher bust, shorter back." Yes, juniors' sizes are odd and misses' are evens, but they do not actually align exactly. (I'm linking to Wikipedia's chart here for easy reference.)

Then, there are the components of ease and "vanity sizing." Ease, for those of you unfamiliar with pattern language, is the amount of give in a garment's design. A nonstretch wool dress that is made to be tight to the body will have very little ease. Likewise, today's jeans have very little ease. If it fits, it fits. If it doesn't, you know immediately. A white dress shirt, on the other hand, generally has quite a bit of ease. So does a wrap dress. Clothes in a store do not have ease marked, so that can account for some size variation.

Vanity sizing is another matter entirely. This is the garment industry's response to women complaining about how big they feel. Sizes have shrunk in some stores and not in others as a result.

But, all these things considered, I am still not convinced that they account for the egregious differences I encountered in my most recent shopping missions.

Generally, I am safe with a S in Juniors' and XS in Misses', but not always--the Misses' size is sometimes too big, and I can often get away with an XS in Juniors, and other times a M. This is handy knowledge when I get a T-shirt from Delia's (S is safer these days) or a sweater from Victoria's Secret (XS or S for a garment with little ease).

Any time numbers are involved, though, the picture changes. I should note that I am well aware that I am cobbled together from many different sizes. One foot is longer, the other wider. I have a small bust and a long torso. My size has also fluctuated lately. I know all this. Well.

Including my haul from yesterday, in the last three weeks or so I have bought:
Speedo one-piece swimsuit: Misses' size 10
White House Black Market skirt: Misses' size 00 (that's right--00)
Charlotte Russe tops: size S (? or XS...these are drapey tops, and therefore a great deal of ease).
Victoria's Secret shorts: size S
Jessica Howard dress: 4P (And it was a little short under the arms and a trifle big in the bust)

I tried on but did not buy:
Cargo Capris: Misses' size 8 (a little loose, but they stayed on)
Cargo shorts: Juniors' size 3 (came down a mite too low, too short in the crotch area)

Finally, in sewing patterns, I consistently make a size 6.

Do you, as I do, notice a problem? My favorite is the swimsuit to skirt ratio. Yes, again, I have a long torso, but really. As a result of this type of problem, I hardly ever buy numbered clothing from a catalog. I simply can't. I can't imagine ordering pants and having them fit. The three times I've ordered dresses for weddings, I was anxious--and the sizes of those were a 4, a tight 2, and a loose 2, which isn't perhaps unreasonable but is still worrying.

The garment industry is in for a rude awakening if this keeps up. Women are busier and busier as the years go by. They do not have time to put up with changing room nonsense, and I have known women who have quit shopping because they never know their size and thus feel defective or overworked in a store. It isn't about vanity any more (if it ever was). It's about time, and the practicality of the event combined with the delight shopping is meant to bring. Who can enjoy themselves if they have to pick three sizes of every item to try on, and then figure out none of them is the right size? No one is going to breeze into a store because they've seen something in a window if they know it will take several tries to get the size right. People always need clothes, it's true, but the industry as a whole needs to reconsider its position and collectively work on a more agreeable sizing system.

I have hopes--scant ones, but they're there--that our gradually growing appreciation of many body sizes and shapes will have a positive effect on the garment and fashion industry. Some stores, Land's End and Victoria's Secret included, have become better about describing the fit of their garments, and making different versions or "fits" for different shapes. But if the sizes don't correlate, that isn't much help to someone who has not bought from a store before (especially if the store has changed its provider, as Charlotte Russe changed its denim brand several years ago).

The industry is ever-morphing. But if it wants to keep customers and avoid the tense frustration and even anger of unhappy shoppers, garment manufacturers need to get it together not on what a size 10 means, but what it actually is.

Stages Seven-Nine

2011-06-18T16:06:00.001-05:00

I'm squeezing the final steps together here, because they take so much less time! They really are the finishing stages for a quilt project.

Binding
Sometimes I love binding. Sometimes I’m just okay with it. It is the final, crucial step for quilting, which is satisfying. Sometimes, if I’m stuck in impatience, I just want it done already.
I got smart with the most recent quilt I made—I made my binding before I did the quilting, so it was ready to go, which seemed faster, even though it wasn’t.

I better back up. You can buy bindings for quilts, which I have done, or you can make binding. I prefer making binding, generally using fabric that I’ve used for the quilt itself. You can do single or double/French binding. The main book I use (Quilters’ Complete Guide, by Marianne Fons and Liz Porter) has great instructions for how to make bias binding, and I always use them. It involves cutting a square of fabric, cutting it into two triangles, sewing the triangles together a certain way, drawing lines, sewing the triangles together another way, to make a tube, then cutting a continuous line and voila, you have binding, a long strip of fabric.
I’d explain better, but honestly, it’s like magic. I usually make extra binding, just in case. I also usually make French binding, because it’s more durable. This means ironing the fabric strip on a center fold to make it double thick.
At this point, I will have decided whether I’m doing a straight edge or a scalloped edge, if I’m doing piping, and any other such bits. For a standard French binding, you just place the rough edges on the quilt top’s edge and stitch, through all thicknesses, all around the quilt, breaking at corners and…well, doing something else magical that works when you fold it to the back to make a corner (you stop stitching ¼ inch from the edge, turn the quilt, fold the binding back on a diagonal, perpendicular to the previous side, and fold it back down, again aligning the rough edges with the quilt top edge. See? Hard to explain.). When you get back to start, you have a few options for making a finished seam, usually folding back the first end a bit, and continuing to stitch the new end for a few inches over the first part.
Then, you trim the edges of the quilt, all the extra backing and batting. You then fold over the binding to the back and, if you have French binding, you have a nice, smooth folded edge to slipstitch into place.

I know, I know—probably most of what I just said makes no sense. It’s hard to describe without pictures. Fons and Porter do an awesome job, so I really recommend their book if you have any interest in quilting.
The quilt is officially bound. This is when I usually remove all the basting and any stray threads, really examining to make sure everything is right.
I’ve done a few special bindings in the past. With my nephew, I worked it so the binding matches the fabric of the quilt parts next to it. I did some piping on my niece’s quilt, and scalloping for a couple of friends (as demonstrated at right, just before turning the binding to the back.) But just simple cotton is fine, too, and helps solidify any color message you want to send.

Best part: The quilt is DONE!
Worst part: Sewing up the bit where the two ends join. I always have problems making that smooth and not too bulky.

Cleaning
I always have baby quilts dry cleaned before presentation. It is not something one would normally do with a quilt—in fact, washing quilts is seldom done for heirloom pieces. But after I’ve worked on a piece, especially in summer, I feel better getting any of my hand oils and dust from the floor off it.
I only twice had problems post-cleaning. One quilt pilled a bit at the dry cleaner. I no longer use that fabric. Another time the quilt came out with brown spots on it. The cleaners sent it elsewhere for a different treatment, and that took care of the vast majority of the problem.
Sometimes before and sometimes after cleaning, I will photograph the quilt for my records.
My usual photography spot now is hanging from two clip-style hangers, on my front door. The space is just big enough to get it all in, and the lighting is the best in the house.

Best part: Relinquishing the quilt—it’s out of my sight for a few days.
Worst part: Relinquishing the quilt—fearing that it will somehow get destroyed!

Presentation
Obviously, the quilt presentation is a time of joy. I always get excited about “handing it over.” I joke about the “secret” gift, but no matter how well known it is that I’m making a quilt for somebody, the final product is always a surprise. I can’t think of a time that anyone other than my parents saw a full quilt design before it was made.
My favorite reaction is my sister’s to my nephew’s quilt. She nearly cried, and instantly wanted to photograph it. Since that is also my favorite of all the ones I’ve done, and because she is a craft goddess in her own right, that was particularly rewarding.
I’m not very good at accepting compliments, or accolades, but I do like to deliver the quilts in person. It is as much about delivering love as delivering a loved object. And I always get to hold the baby.

And that's it! That's how I make a quilt...at least, usually. I always try to do something a little different so that I'm always learning and solving new problems. Just last night, for instance, things came together for my next project, after a bit of a struggle, and I'll be using new technqiues, including hand embroidery and more pronounced sashing. And, it's black and cream. It's great when everything seems to come together all at once--that's the point at which I know I'm doing the right thing and I'm ready to move forward!

Stage Six: Quilting

2011-06-12T16:01:00.004-05:00

This part is, admittedly, the more mystical part of the whole quilting process. I didn’t know how it was done until I read a book or two. And, as a further admission, this is the part with which I’m the least patient. I always do less quilting than someone with more talent would do.
You can quilt by hand or by machine. My first quilt was done by both, with pictures quilted by hand in a hoop and letters quilted by machine. I am not very good with hand quilting—it takes a lot of dexterity, patience, and the ability to use a thimble to make stitches small and even. I enjoyed learning how to do it, but it was time-consuming and not, anyway, the best choice for a baby quilt that I’d like to be used.
It took me a while to figure out how to quilt by machine, too. My mother’s machine is actually better at it than mine, though I’ve gotten my machine’s quirks mostly figured out. Here is the process:
step one: backing. I cut a backing piece to a few inches longer/wider than my quilt top borders, and iron it as smooth as possible. This gets laid, right side down, on one of the cutting mats. I favor just regular quilting cotton for my backing, but I sometimes do a medallion backing—one print or color with a larger patchworked piece in the middle. I also have done stripes and squares for the back. That way, the piece is reversible. I sometimes kick myself for buying large pieces of fabric that I don’t have a plan for, but I can’t tell you how many times that’s come in handy for the backing!
step two: batting. The batting gets cut to the same size as the top, and gets placed over the backing piece, gently, and smoothed as much as possible. It helps to fold it and center it that way. I also usually pull back the batting and backing together, as if they were one piece, and smooth that out before smoothing it back down. This helps the batting and backing kind of stay together.
I favor Mountain Mist’s Cream Rose batting—it took me a while to come to this, but it’s great. It’s easily needled, warm but not too thick, and super soft. I’ve heard it called insubstantial, but I find it just right for baby quilts, and it doesn’t bunch up in the machine.

step three: top. The quilt top completes the layering, and it gets smoothed over the other layers as tidily and squared-up as possible. I have learned to take a lot of care making sure the three layers are together evenly and that they almost cling to each other. You can get fusible batting, but I prefer this way.

step four: basting. There is pin basting and stitched basting. They say that pin basting is best for machine quilting, but I have to be honest—it doesn’t work. Not for me. Sometimes I’ll pin baste the edges of the quilt and a few parts of the middle, but only in combination with stitched basting. Basically, for stitched basting, you cut long threads and take long stitches through all three layers of the quilt, making sure the layers don’t shift. You can do a grid or a sort of starburst. Basting should be about four inches apart and should go from the center out, which is also the way you…

step five: quilt. Once the basting is done, I check to make sure the back is still smooth and nothing is puckered or bunched. Then, I figure out how I’m going to quilt the thing. In blocks? “In the ditch” of seams? In patterns? Around figures? In something abstract? I usually choose to quilt around my blocks or shapes, in either clear or matching thread (I’ve used machine quilting thread, but honestly, I’ve seen no difference from regular cotton thread, and I always have some from making the actual quilt top). I also use a machine quilting needle—I’m not sure what the difference is, but I have some, so I use them.
To do the actual quilting, I sort of half-fold, half-roll parts of the quilt so that they’re easier to manage. With large projects, they suggest using bicycle clips to secure the folds. Baby quilts aren’t usually that hard to manage, and sometimes I hardly find it worth it to roll it, especially because I often change direction, and I don’t have a long-arm machine, so I have to fit whatever I have all the way around. Folded or not, I then just stitch away, in whatever design I’ve decided, using the same straight stitch I’d use for any other sewing. Sometimes I do have to adjust bobbin or thread tension, so I usually do a test before I start on a few scraps layered together.
I mentioned that you’re supposed to quilt from the center out, which is true—it’s less likely to get unsightly puckers on the back, or layer shifting. They also suggest you outline blocks first, then do any internal, more fiddly work, which makes sense. There is also a way to quilt where you ignore the design and just quilt a pattern all over, but I’ve never really done that.
I mentioned not having much patience with this. A lot of times, the quilting involves doing a few lines, smoothing the whole thing out on the floor, picking it back up, then stitching more lines, and repeating until finished. This is not really all that time-consuming, but, you see, the quilt is almost finished at this point. The end is near, and you can really feel it. I’m thinking about getting it cleaned and delivered, and my mind is often on the next project, or wanting not to sew for a few days. On top of that, my patchwork pieces are often pretty elaborate, so I want them to have the most attention. I could just do a tied quilt, but that’s not really right, either. So, I compromise by doing just enough to set pieces off and give the piece a few extra tidbits of interest, and then I quit.
Best Part: A couple of times recently I’ve had quilting come out really well, with no major problems. That was a really good feeling, since I feel so inept with this part.
Worst part: Puckers/bunches. No matter how good the basting, sometimes lines aren’t straight or a layer will pull a bit too much. There is usually nothing you can do about it, or you can pick the whole thing out and try again.
Next: Binding! We’re almost home!

Stage Five: Assembly

2011-06-06T15:50:00.007-05:00

Blocks
As noted in my prior post, assembly happens sometimes simultaneously with the cutting of pieces, depending on the project. This part of the project is pretty simple—you just sew the cut-out pieces together (with ¼ inch seams) to make sub-blocks, iron them, then stitch them together to make blocks. Just like any other sewing.
There are some complications, though, such as:

Triangles with long edges are sometimes hard to figure out as to placement. Sometimes I will pin the template pieces, right sides together, to see how they should be placed when I’m sewing. I once had to redo an entire unicorn because I’d been sloppy about the placement of these really long, shardlike tail pieces.

Squaring—I confess that I’m not that great at making blocks truly square. I could do ten of a block and have them all come out slightly different. The birds I made recently were a great example—the beak ends were all completely out of whack.

Matching Seams—Because of the above problem, when combining sub-blocks to make a full block, seams don’t always match properly. Sometimes it doesn’t matter and you can fudge it. Sometimes you have to pick out the seams and try again.

These problems are part of the same problem, which is that I am not the most evenhanded and tidy seamstress. I admit it.

I usually wear something very casual and loose when I quilt. In cold weather, I wear layers to keep warm. In summer, I wear as little as possible. I find it hilarious that my nails are polished in this picture, because sewing is not a good time to keep a manicure.

Quilt
Once all the blocks are together, it’s time to assemble the whole quilt top. Are you ready? Here we go.
Actually, it’s not that hard. Especially now that I have my two cutting board options. I stitch blocks together, laying completed sections in place on the cardboard mat, then I use the puzzle mat for making sure blocks are aligned before they get sewn together.
Assembling the top is where the previous mistakes with squaring come get diminished. I have to use my grids to make sure seams are straight and reasonable. Pin, and stitch. Iron. Pin, and stitch. Iron.
Eventually, the whole shebang is together, one roughly thirty-fiveish by forty-sevenish quilt top. I usually do a pretty thorough job of ironing at this point, to make sure everything is as flat as possible. After this point, you can’t fix internal seams.

Best part: Just like the previous stage, production. Usually by this stage I’m flagging with the project, but getting blocks done makes me feel that the marathon is nearing its end.
Worst Part: Ironing. I hate ironing. I’ve gotten used to it from sewing so much, but figuring out some often bulky seams and where they should lie is a pain.
Next: Quilting

Stage Four: Cutting

2011-05-30T14:09:00.006-05:00

The templates are prepared. The fabric has been washed and folded. The cutting boards are laid out, and I’ve laid in a selection of audio books. It’s time to cut.
By this stage, I’m entirely in my workroom. There is no TV in there, just my CD/tape stereo and lots of space. I use two cutting boards. One, which I “borrowed” from my mother, is cardboard, and it is useful for laying out the fabrics I want to use and storing pieces as they’re cut. I also lay out the final blocks on it, so the quilt begins to take shape.
The other is actually made up of pieces, called a puzzle mat. It was a gift request one year and I like it so much I asked for a second set the following year. The two sets create a sizable mat, but I can also pull a piece or two off and take it to the sewing machine to help me line up pieces before I sew them, without having to return to the big mats every time. Everyone has a preferred way of doing their cutting, but the puzzle mat is my choice. It makes things much easier.
When I cut, I go block by block: I usually cut pieces for one full block and sew it up before I do a whole set for the block, in case there is something horribly wrong with the template pieces; and, I usually do a whole set of a block before I start cutting for a different block. Usually.
I cut on the floor. I know what you’re thinking—I’m crazy. Honestly, though, it’s the easiest for me. It’s sometimes hard on my back, but I’m able to scramble and scooch around on the floor, all the way around the mat, and there is plenty of space to spread the fabric out.
I lay out a particular fabric, wrong side up, and go piece by piece through a block, tracing (in regular pencil—another quilters’ horror, I’m sure) the correct number of each piece at a time out on the fabric. Sometimes I’ll take a cutting break and cut some pieces out, then go back to tracing.

Here are some bird bodies and wings drawn on purple:
Through this whole process, I’m trying to use fabric as sparingly as I can. I try to squeeze pieces together to ensure there is as little waste as possible—especially if I know I need a lot of a particular color. I often will also label each piece with the corresponding block piece designation, so I will know where and which way it’s supposed to go. For really tricky pieces, I will include an arrow showing which side should be pointed up. This saves time for triangles in particular.It’s also important to note that when I use templates, I have to decide whether to face them label side up or down. If I have all the pieces up, then the block will turn out backwards to the template (because I’m drawing it on the wrong side of the fabric), and vice versa. Often, this doesn’t matter, as in the turtle, or the firefly. Sometimes, I’ll do some one way and some another, as in the lions.
This part of the process doesn’t require much thought beyond the above consideration…unless I am running out of a particular color. Then I have to get clever, or redesign. As referenced in a comment interaction earlier, this is one of the points at which a redesign is possible. I remember I ran out of a green once—a green I needed to make lake weeds. I hadn’t realized that I was so short on the fabric. So, I reworked the overall design to have fewer lake weeds and more of something else. I usually overbuy for the quilt top color, more than I think I need, because it’s really surprising how much space patchwork bits and pieces take up for the background. Thus, for some of my favorite fabrics, I don’t feel guilt about overbuying, because I know it might become a quilt top (or back).

Here is a complete bird and a complete flower block cut out. These are ready to be sewn, to test the template. When I do a whole bunch of pieces for one block, I'll make little piles for each one, in their actual places for the block, to make it easier when it's time to assemble.

Best Part: Production. I really start to feel like I’m getting somewhere, and it’s fun to use up fabric. As much as I like to buy it, I also like to use it, which adds to the feeling of production.
Worst Part: Honestly? My scissors calluses. I have a couple of different pairs of scissors, including so-called “ergonomic” ones, which are okay, but not my favorite—they’re a little heavy and not as maneuverable. I just use a standard pair, which I try to keep at least moderately sharp. Unfortunately, they do give me blisters in a couple of spots.
Next: Stage Five, Assembly

Feathers, anyone? Emily West Lowry

2011-05-20T15:39:00.004-05:00

My hours and computer habits this week have been completely ridiculous--random, meandering searches, at the office until nearly nine...
Yet I also searched myself straight into a very intriguing new local business:
Emily West Lowry Designs
Emily is a local woman, who attended BGSU for degrees in history and geography; she is now running an online business and consigning her work to bridal shops and salons, and opening her own store in Waterville, OH.
You've heard before my affinity for 30s/40s fashion, and for vintage gear. You've seen my modern outfits with spins from another time. Looking at Emily's work, it is clear why it appeals to me: feathers and birdcage veils, jewels and buttons, in glamorous and well produced arrangements for the hair. Her work is feminine in the way that suggests a woman who is strong and insightful, used to making statements that people notice, but also keeping a part of herself secret.
I'm greatly looking forward to visiting Emily's shop when it opens in June.
I'm also continuing to work on designs for unique garters, and Emily has given me a new charge to believe that my work has a place in the modern fashion world.

Stage Three: Templates (for patchwork)

2011-04-29T12:12:00.004-05:00

Ok. So, templates are not unique to me. There are a lot of ways of doing templates, and my way is not the best way, I can promise you that. It’s my way, though, and I’m pretty stubborn about sticking to what works for me, even if it’s not efficient.

Here’s how it works: When I have the blocks decided on and the full model drawn up, I am ready to create templates. I have to draw out each block full size on graph paper, if I haven’t already done so. I draw in any additional lines needed to make sure I can put the blocks together easily…for instance, if I have an odd shaped piece and would need to “piece in” a corner, sometimes I opt to split the piece up so I don’t have to sew around a corner, which is annoying. I do it on graph paper so I can make sure everything is reasonably square.

Then, I label each piece. I label them with an abbreviation of the block and the color needed (e.g. HT might be horse tail, and WB might be weed background). I label them also with a part of the block—a sub-block, if you will—and a number of the piece within the sub-block; usually the pieces should be assembled in number order. Thus 1A HB is the first piece needed of sub-block A for the horse’s background.

Confused? Here’s a picture to demonstrate:

Here we have two blocks with templates already cut up--a bird and a flower. The flower block has sub-blocks A and B. Actually, the bird does, too. You can also see gaps--when there are repeated pieces or pieces of the same size used in a block, I label them with any relevant parts numbers and letters. The triangles in the flower each have three codes because, for the larger, it forms part of the flower and two triangles of background, and for the smaller, two parts of the flower and one of the background.

Then, and this is the fun bit, I cut the block up. I try to make sure I have a reasonably clear surface to do this, and that there isn’t any breeze in the house. That could be dangerous. Then, I put the pieces where they’d belong in the block on the tabletop, so I know what I’m grabbing.

I use manila folders for my templates. Why? I don’t know. You need something reasonably sturdy, and I need something reasonably cheap and accessible, and easy to cut. I had some folders lying around the first time, and I’ve never looked back.

Also important: Good TV. This is one of the more tedious and mindless portions of my quilting process, and I have to have something on that will amuse me, but that I don’t necessarily need to look at every minute. Firefly and Pushing Daisies episodes are good choices.
Other tools: Ruler, mechanical pencil, drink, snacks, scissors.

I first measure and draw a dotted line a quarter of an inch away from one edge of the opened, flattened folder. A lot of people draw their templates regular size and then simply cut ¼ inch around the pieces. I don’t like to do this because a: my ¼ inch eye isn’t very consistent, and b: it doesn’t work with my cutting process. I then place one edge of each little graph paper piece on the dotted line, and draw a dotted line around the rest of the piece. I measure ¼ inch out from these dotted lines for all the other edges, and draw in the solid lines, using my trusty ruler. I now have a manila folder template for one piece, with a ¼ inch seam allowance drawn in. I measure off that piece and off other folder edges, always ¼ inch, and keep drawing in pieces until I have a whole block completed.

As I go, when I finish a part of a block, I tape it back together. Gradually the whole block will get taped together again. When I cut out the template pieces, I put them with the taped-together block and put them in a plastic sandwich or snack bag. I have a complete set of templates, with a guide for how to put the pieces together when they’ve been cut out of fabric. The above picture includes two sets of templates taken out of the bag and set up for cutting.

Best Part: I like the mindlessness of this work sometimes. It is a good feeling to do something that has a distinct start time and stop time—a to-do list item you can actually check off.
Worst Part: Pencil smears all over my hands. Also, this takes forever.
Stage Four: Cutting

Stage Two: Fabric Choice

2011-04-20T15:50:00.006-05:00

At left: Butterfly quilt, Clare. Below, where I mention using too many fabrics, this is an example. I felt like they all went together, but it was really too much. The quilt turned out fine, but it is kind of busy.

Admittedly, fabric choice happens at a couple of different stages. I often do a reconnaissance mission to the fabric store to see what’s there, and if there is any impulse of YES for a particular fabric, or if I get a sudden inspiration for a design. I also examine my own shelves of material very carefully for inspiration or to check off what I already have available.

I have a few favorites that I keep on hand, and a few lengths of oddball fabric I’m not sure how I’ll use, as well as smaller sections of fabric I’ve picked up along the way. One of my favorites is a light blue fabric with bluebirds all over it. I always have to keep some of that. There is also fabric that I am saving for myself, as in lengths that have been gifts that I’ve set aside for my own projects. (And, as it happens, my old special occasions fabric quilt, made for my college years in 1997, is falling apart, so I actually do need to start forming plans for my own quilt.)

It’s helpful if I already know colors for a baby’s room, or if I have some idea of what colors the parents like. I also think about what tastes generally the parents have; for example, one father friend enjoys gingham, so obviously his daughter needed to have gingham involved. Another father friend enjoys the Colorado Avalanche, so I had to involve those colors as well. These days, my friends’ parents usually know what’s coming, and they know I like at least some information, so they will let me know what their plans are for the nursery, or the gender of the baby.

At right: Ladies quilt, Cecilia. The background is one of my favorite greens, actually a striated green with a leaf print. The bright red, green, and brown were for vines and flowers. The others were for dresses of the ladies. Very neat and tidy!

I don’t usually allow myself actually to buy fabric until I have the design phase completed. Then it’s on! It’s a well known fact that I love the fabric store. On one of my recent visits, I planned to stay maybe an hour or two, and I ended up in there for something like four hours (though only some of that was quilt-fabric buying). I’m addicted to fabric, to the textures and colors, to the color exchanges and the feeling of absolute wealth. Wall to wall bolts of fabric, with any number of creation possibilities, creations that will last. It’s richness. I want to swim in it, like Scrooge McDuck in his money.

When I’m buying quilt fabric, I usually have a list. The list contains blocks and colors I need for the blocks. I have usually checked off whatever I already have fabric for. Sometimes I have a fabric already in mind, maybe one I’ve seen or used before. Other times I’m baffled.
Take orange, for example. For some reason, orange is uber difficult for me to find—unless I don’t need it (and yes, I now pick up good orange if I find it). So much orange quilt fabric is really neonish and really not easy to match with other colors. I’ve made some mistakes before with orange.

Blues and greens, on the other hand, are easy—I’ve found lots of blue and green that I love, and sometimes I have a hard time keeping myself from putting them in the basket. Light blues and greens make awesome background fabric, especially for outdoor scenes, as many of my pieces are.

At left: One of my favorite collections ever. This was for the fantasy counting quilt for my nephew, and the colors came together really well. I felt like I finally brought together my understanding of colors and what I wanted to do with them, and some of the choices are my favorites. The owls were made out of ivory/brown/black clockwork fabric. The lake was the bluebirds fabric. The fish was a great orange fabric. I had fabric for the stonework of the castle and for the ladies' patterned dresses. It all came out right!

No matter the color, I’ve learned over time that I need to check my fabrics against each other and limit the number of fabrics used together—and not to get something if it really doesn’t match. I have a tendency to make quilts too busy, or to pick things with not enough contrast. I’m still learning. I do know a little about color theory and various quilt principles as far as fabrics are concerned, but I don’t make “educated” quilts—I don’t make it a point to use that knowledge. I use what feels right.

I have quite a lot of pictures of this stage. For several quilts I’ve done a photograph of all the fabrics together, once I’ve tested out different combinations and determined more firmly what I will use for what. I’m not sure why I’ve recorded this, and I’ve never before examined my motivations. Maybe I just like to see the folds of fabric together? Maybe I like to record my choices, for better or worse? Maybe, since this is the first stage where there are really colorful elements, it where my photography starts? I don’t know.

Best Part: Faaaaabbrriiiiiiiic.
Worst Part: Not finding just the right fabric when really, really needed. Also, as mentioned, I have a problem with selecting busy colors/patterns, or having too many.
Next: Stage Three, Templates

At right: Current quilt project.

Stage One: Design, part three

2011-04-09T16:21:00.006-05:00

Full Design

The full design stage happens partially in parallel with the last portions of modeling, but extends past that stage also. When I do a full design, I sit down with my block/picture models and some more graph paper, and usually a movie or TV shows or something, so I have a little distraction and someplace to refocus my eyes.

I usually, based on the blocks I’ve chosen, draw a large rectangle on the graph paper, assigning each little square one inch. Most of my quilts hover in the 36 X 48 region. This, too, is a little unusual. Crib mattresses are generally 26 X 48 or somewhere in that area. But I usually think of my quilts as being floor quilts for tummy time, so I just do what size I like, and I like 36ish X 48ish. Again, this depends on block size and whether I’m doing sashing or anything like that (meaning extra strips or blocks of non-patchworked fabric separating blocks).

Once I have a large rectangle, or part of the rectangle (sometimes leaving dimensions up in the air until I get the blocks worked in), I work on where the blocks will go, how many there will be, and what the best arrangement is, as well as deciding whether extra space is needed. For a block that is almost all patchworked for the featured part, extra space is helpful. For a block that is mostly background and a smaller shape, extra space is unnecessary. There is a lot of erasing in this stage, as I jigsaw puzzle the pieces in. Often it comes together right away. Just as often, it takes days and many moments of re-thinking what I’ve done, revising the design. Sometimes I just outline the blocks, especially if it’s a complicated quilt with many blocks, as with the circus quilt. Sometimes I’ll draw the design on each block in, as with the turtle quilt or the violet quilt. In any case, things sometimes have to move around a lot until everything fits in just so. A mechanical pencil is very crucial to this whole process—one with a good eraser. Sometimes, if a quilt is regular in its geometrics, I will do the main lines over in pen, since pencil tends to smear (especially the way I write).

I should note here that I use a mechanical pencil for just about everything in the quilting process—I used to get in trouble in elementary school for using a dull pencil, and of course as I just mentioned I tend to smear a lot when I write. In the design process, I do have to force myself to write lightly at first, so I can erase if needed. But when I’m more sure of my design, I go ahead and draw things in darkly, so that’s sort of a sign or measure of my certainty about what I’m doing. If I’ve jumped the gun, I won’t erase—I will start over with a new piece of graph paper.

I usually have some idea of what I want to do on the edge of the quilt at that point, so if I’m using a border or something special I’ll go ahead and draw that in, too. The circus quilt, for instance, has a scalloped edge, as does the pearl quilt. The lady quilt has a proper border, and the alphabet appliqué quilt has piping. It’s important to draw in something like a scallop, so you can make sure the border won’t overlap your design, and you can space in any background fabric needed.

As an additional note, my favorite graph paper right now has five squares/inch on one side and four squares/inch on the other. I generally need to use the five-square side for the full design, but I can work out other designs on the back, as if I’m doing a medallion block on the back or something. It’s also helpful for doing the individual blocks, depending on the dimensions and need for more subtle angles.

This is the design for my present project. I did birds on the top and violets on the bottom. This is for the second child of a particular family, and I did something I normally didn't do--I did a pattern that was similar to the one for the first child. The first quilt was fireflies and stars. The arrangement of the elements is similar, or at least inspired by the other. The quilts will be very different, but there will be a unity between them that I enjoy. Best Part: I love seeing the full design coming together. It is usually at this point that I feel all is right with the world…usually. Sometimes I’m still uncertain, but at least when this stage is finished I feel like I’ve really created something. It’s like an architect’s blueprints, I imagine. Someday I might frame them. Worst Part: When things don’t fit, I get antsy and obsessive. Next: Stage Two! Fabric Choice

Stage One: Design, part two

2011-04-01T13:17:00.003-05:00

Modeling, aka Research

Once I have a theme down, and some idea of what I want to put in the quilt, I start figuring out what the pieces will be, and potential block sizes. If I’m doing appliqué, I have to start working on outlines. I might trace, or I might draw things out myself. Since most of what I do is patchwork, I have quite a few techniques to help me through the modeling process.

I usually make a list of possible things to put in the quilt. I then sort through old patterns I have used, to see if anything is right for the present quilt. For the medieval ladies quilt with flowers, I’d already copied down some flower patterns from a book, so I had some possibilities to look at. I also already had a full pattern prepared for the ladies, from a previous quilt.

I should back up a little here—I love looking through libraries' quilt books. At the BGSU library, there is a book with lots of established patterns in it, usually simple and classic ones. I’ve gotten a few blocks from there, and modified others. I’ll take a piece of graph paper and copy down the blocks I like, whether current-quilt-relevant or for future ideas. At the Wood County library, there are shelves and shelves of quilt books, both general and specific to themes. I looked through a sweet one recently, Quilts from Nature by Joan Colvin. It seriously revolutionized my life, not so much for the quilts I’ve made for others, but plans for projects I want to do for my own home. It has some genuinely awesome patterns in it, and some techniques for creating blocks I hadn’t really considered before. I also have used a great one with patterns of magical characters, called Spellbinding Quilts, by Maaike Bakker. The aforementioned lady pattern is a very simple modification of one from this book.

The patterns don’t always work for my needs, in fact, so I have to redesign them. I copy them down as is, but then I redraw them, again on graph paper, in a more convenient size or with alterations to make the piecing easier. If I am working with a very specific theme, I’ll look for books on that theme (as with the circus animals—a book with Noah’s Ark animals came in very handy, as did the Go Wild quilt books by Margaret Rolfe). There are thousands of quilt books in the world. I look for books that have fairly simple designs that match my skill level and techniques I prefer to use.

Eventually, I have a few sheets of graph paper with patterns all drawn up in their proper sizes.

Best Part: Satisfaction of finding just the right block, or the right set of blocks. If at some point I have thought, “This is perfect!” it’s been a good modeling session.

Worst Part: I can’t really think of one. This is one of my favorite steps. Sometimes I do get a little pang of concern for how much graph paper I’m using. It can also be kind of time-consuming.

Next: Full Design

Stage One: Design, part one

2011-03-26T16:21:00.002-05:00

The Thinker
The baby is approaching. I start working on design midway through the friend/relative’s pregnancy, and timing will depend partly on whether I have projects backed up or not. In the last two years, the babies have been coming pretty fast, so I’m behind. I used to like to time it to have the project done right after the baby was born, but that no longer happens. I’m lucky if I get it finished three months in, which isn’t so bad, really. It’s a gift that comes in when other gifts aren’t arriving anymore and things might be a little stressful.
The projects are always different. I make the choice partly based on skills I want to learn or work on, partly based on what I’ve been doing or what I like best, and partly based on what I know about the incoming child.
For instance, I’ve decided that, on the whole, I like doing patchwork best. I’m not sure why; possibly it is because it makes me feel like I am creating order. Perhaps it is because it feels classic. Perhaps it is because I am not so good at appliqué. I definitely like the look of patchwork, and I’ve learned it is extremely versatile.
Even so, I want to keep learning skills, and I am still working on different techniques, within patchwork and in other styles.
In any case, the design usually starts the way I best think—I let my mind wander, often on the backburner while I’m doing other things. I circle around ideas like a hunting lion, not startling anything, staying downwind. The grazing thoughts usually include whatever I know of the family and any previous children, any nursery or favorite colors I have been given, and any clues as to the baby’s name. Also, I think of the baby’s gender, not so much for color, but for design elements. Half-sentences like, “What if I did…” and “I wonder if I can…” drift about, getting discarded or stored depending on my skill level and quality of the notion. Sometimes a theme will come to me suddenly, or I’ll make a stream-of-consciousness connection (as in the turtle quilt—the baby’s middle name would be Francis, aka Frank. I thought of Franklin the turtle and my own lake history, and that was pretty much that). Other times, it’s not so simple.
Take, for example, the circus quilt. I had the theme, I knew the nursery colors and the baby’s gender, and yet the thought process was one of my most involved yet. A circus is, of course, a rich theme, and I’d never done anything like it. It took a long time to figure out what I wanted to do and on what scope, and I have a lot of half-begun drawings that I gave up on.
Gradually, things will take shape in my mind. I’ll make a decision of what I want to try, and then I’ll move forward. Much like the writing process, quiltmaking is recursive, so I know I can always go backward and revise a design, add more thoughts, or completely overhaul if something isn’t working.
Best Part: “Creation is an act of sheer will.” Jurassic Park.
Worst Part: I get antsy when I’m trying to boil up an idea. If something isn’t coming to me, I get frustrated. I won’t give up; instead, I’ll get obsessed.
Next Time: Modeling

A Look at What's Ahead

2011-03-14T13:57:00.002-05:00

Lest you think I am neglecting this blog, I want to give you a heads' up on some things.
People have asked me a lot about the quilting I do, about my process of creation. While the mystique is enjoyable, I've decided to do a blog series on my process, complete with pictures. It's not a tutorial; more like a showcase. I've been taking pictures of my current quilt-in-progress, a relatively simple one, so I can best explain how it all works (because honestly, with the more complex ones, I can't always justify the decisions--it just happens).
I'm also working on a few playlists, for quilting and for other pursuits.

Now, I'm just back from spring break. I visited home and hung out with my folks, did some shopping with my Mom for a maid of honor dress (in black), got a haircut, listened to hockey games, and went to visit my Gran in her new digs. I actually extended my visit for a day because I wanted to spend Saturday in my jammies and finally plow through some essays. I have 10 left and then I'm good to go until Thursday.

So, let me at this moment just leave you with that hope for the future, and this video of a kitten riding a tortoise!

Scrubs?

2011-03-07T15:15:00.007-05:00

For some reason, I received a catalog today from Lydia's Uniforms, mainly a medical scrubs company. I'm not sure what mailing list led to that, but it got me thinking about current uniform fashion. Honestly, lots of these scrubs are pretty fashionable, including the shoes.
Take, for instance, this little blouse:

Crayola threads by Barco, Empire waist top

It has a ruffled neckline and a little bow at the side, and is trim and clean.

Then there is this T-shirt, complete with a quote from Grey's Anatomy:

Grey's Anatomy scrubs by Barco, long seleeve shirt

And while we're at it, let's get some rock-star shoes, like these from Alegria:

And don't even get me started on how comfortable scrub pants look. I favor a drawstring pair that fall to my heels, with a cargo-leg or wide-leg design for a modern look, in a color like "ciel blue" or "wine."

I'm reminded of when, on Project Runway, they made over the postal service uniforms. Who knew medical gear could be so fashion forward? Even so, I wonder what would happen if Project Runway decided to make up new medical uniforms and scrubs? Are you listening, Lifetime?

And now, a word about toile

2011-02-25T16:26:00.005-05:00

For various reasons, I am currently investigating toile. And when I say varied, I really mean one reason. A not very secret one.

I feel like most people at all familiar with fabric know a toile print when they see one--the all-over scene fabric, with a pastoral flavor and usually a one-color-on-white print.

People also have varying opinions on toile. I have no particular bent one way or another, but I realized as I began my research that I have never actually used toile. I have been attracted to toile prints on numerous occasions, but could never think of a reason to get any.

As I am poking around, I am learning a lot. Often referred to as "Toile de Jouy" for its most famous production location in France, toile has a storied history from the past few hundred years. It can also contain a wide variety of prints, not just jolly French ladies and gentleman.

I'd forgotten, for instance, about chinoserie toile, full of "pastoral" landscapes from the Orient, and certainly idealized Asian figures.

Schumacher toile, from Brick House Fabric

Then there are the tribute toiles, like this Civil War toile:

Civil War Toile, from The Door Mouse

Evidently there is quite a famous set of toiles with an Eisenhower theme, and some with a Southern USA theme, after Gone with the Wind was published.

There are also toiles with literary themes, as in this example:

Robinson Crusoe toile, by Lee Jofa/Christopher Moore.

Certainly, a lot can be done with toile. Home decor via wallpaper, draperies, and furnishings are natural. Toile is often used in quilting, since as a cotton fabric it's a natural choice. But I was surprised to learn about toile's capabilities in fashion:

50s dress, Dorothea's closet, via Baltimore Style

1987 Christian Lacroix, via Dressmaker

I'm a little embarrassed now for having passed up some toile opportunities. I'm looking forward to getting in to a good fabric store to peruse the possibilities. I'd like to find some good literary toile, and maybe some Greek myth toile. Maybe also some sweet architectural toile!

And, if you're still looking for some wellies this season, check out these!

More on creative toile from Mr. Peacock.

In Which I Pull Myself Together

2011-02-08T17:35:00.003-05:00

I try to decide the night before what clothes I want to wear the next day, since it saves time and I can sleep later. Last night I opted for my peachy-pink sweater (which I think might have been from La Redoute when they were still in business) and my brown pants, which, as my students pointed out today, have a nice sheen (from The Limited). Naturally, I'd wear my St. John's Bay brown boots, a plain white T, and my necklace beaded with selections from the Glass Onion Bead Co. in Appleton, WI.

My hair I leave to chance. Yesterday, for some reason, it was very glamorously smooth. Today, not so much, making it very obvious I need my ends trimmed. As I noticed, however, my snood (from Love21) is a pretty fair match for this sweater. Why not?

So, here you see me, in an "outfit," hard at work at my desk (for the purposes of this picture). Not bad, eh?

Seven

2011-01-28T13:59:00.011-05:00

Thank you, Cloud of Secrets, for selecting me to receive The Stylish Blogger Award!
The rules of acceptance:

~Thank and link back to the person who awarded you
~Share 7 things about yourself
~Award 10 recently discovered great bloggers
~Contact these bloggers and tell them about the award.

1. My favorite hairstyle is second day curls; that is, I sleep with damp hair in sponge rollers and have a day of curls, then don't wash my hair, but might put it up for the night. The next day, when the curls are a little more relaxed, they still have body and make it look like I have more hair than I do. I like to pin it up and have curls at the back of my head, with curly tendrils falling artfully down. Like this:

2. For the longest time, my favorite Halloween costume ever was my Arabian princess, for which I wore silver press-on nails and one of my sister's dance costumes, with a veil and lots of rhinestones. But as an adult, my favorite was Terpsichore, muse of the dance, for which I made a simple blue toga edged in Greek key ribbon, and a pink shepherdess drape tied with ribbon and a bejeweled broach. I wore a flower circlet. I don't have a ready copy of a picture of it, but I modeled it on old art pieces like this work by Eustache Le Sueur.

3. My favorite instrument to listen to is probably the cello. I'm particularly fond of the violin also, but something about the cello gets inside me. I recently watched this video of Stjepan Hauser and Luka Sulic playing MJ's "Smooth Criminal" and I nearly drooled. Luka Sulic in particular is dreamy to me (the one with short hair and an impossibly alluring lower lip). I know nothing about these gentlemen except that they are award-winning cellists. And they give me goosebumps and shivers. The passion and thrill...I can hardly bear it. I've watched this over and over P.S. There should be more videos like this, classical instruments played with zest...and I love that it's a rock classic. I love my classics, but don't you think this would get kids interested in playing instruments?

4. I am almost pathologically independent. I find it very difficult to accept help from anyone for anything, with the exception of my family, and even their input is limited to some key areas like health, car care, and general advice. In the Shirley Temple version of Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm, she repeats the line, "I'm very self-reliant." That's pretty much me. And while people have said, "You deprive others of the joy of being helpful to you," I somehow can't get behind that sentiment. I don't know if it's because I don't like to be beholden to people, I don't like to feel like a helpless woman, or I feel like I was given enough by God that I should be able to survive with that, or what. I accept help when it's blindingly obvious I need it, but that is rare. I just seem to have a hard time letting people take care of me.

5. My favorite non-internet PC game is Where in Time Is Carmen Sandiego? Sure, I loved Blue Max and made it to the end, played hours of Tetris and its other versions, and Carmen Sandiego's other versions, too, and begged for Oregon Trail. But Where in Time was one of the first games we owned that had extras...there were the cases, but there were also places to go in HQ, like the coffee machine. There was also the chrono-thingy which had a pretty cool effect for a late 80s DOS game. And it came with a paperback encyclopedia.

6. I think the height of wealth would be having a house with a library so big you'd need a ladder on wheels to get at the high books. It should have a well-ventilated fireplace and comfortable, cozy chairs, and long windows with a view of a forest or a meadow or some such natural features. Not unlike this one, from the article "Super Home Libraries" over at Business Week. And if I can get one with a secret passageway, so much the better.

7. One of my most bizarre traits is chameleonism, most especially with my voice. I tend to pick up an accent and vocabulary quickly when I'm around people with a similar one (and drop them when the next group comes along), but I also do it while singing. I don't actually know what my natural singing voice sounds like, because I tend to imitate involuntarily, and I sing a song the way I've heard it. I remember driving in a car and singing along with The Cardigans' song "Lovefool" and my friend telling me I sound just like the lead. But I can do the same thing with many other artists. I am actually not very good at impressions of most people, but for some reason my singing voice is a total copycat. I notice it in church, too, after a soloist sings, or if someone good is near me...I sort of up the ante on my own voice. I don't know why it's like this, and I'm not always glad it's happening, because it doesn't make me trust my singing voice any, and I don't do it on purpose.

Who reads this blog? All of you are officially nominated :)

Bath Cap Redux

2011-01-23T14:21:00.003-05:00

I did take a bath last night and use my fancy bath cap. I kept it on while I snuggled into my pink jammies as well, and curled up in my Woman's Blankie, and listened to an audiobook.
I think about luxury a lot. How I have a very difficult time understanding a $300 pair of jeans or $1000 pair of shoes. How, instead, I prefer "cheap and cheerful."
We so often think of luxury as something rare or pricey, something others might covet because of its expense or exclusivity. Sure, many of those things are luxurious. But I can never really get behind that definition.
I feel like luxury is really about the things small and large that delight us without having to try. The things we gravitate to and smile secret, enigmatic smiles about. I don't even think they have to be particularly rare.
For example, I can afford to keep five kinds of chai handy for ready drinking. A cup of tea requires a choice. Every time I make a cup, especially if I've made it in the microwave and am lifting it down, I hold the cup to my nose, usually before I have even put sugar in it. Sure, I make some just about every day. But it's a luxury, nevertheless, because it will never fail to inspire a little twist of my heart, a little ritual of calm, and the luxury of decision.
Don't we, after all, overestimate what is normal? I find myself making that mistake all the time, forgetting that what I might take for granted is actually extraordinary. I remember when MSU had a bunch of fabric that was printed incorrectly. They sent it to a poor African nation to be cut up and used as blankets, as so many didn't have anything through the surprisingly cold nights. Every night, as I sink onto my mattress, enveloped in layers of sheets and blankets, I have that same little ritual of calm, that little acknowledgement of gratitude for something extra. It's a bed. Nothing could be simpler. But I treat it like a luxury and I keep it the way I like it (seldom making it, for instance) because I can.
This isn't a post about being grateful for what we have, or helping those in need. Those things are important, but this is about acknowledging that luxuries don't have to be things others would view as unreachable, or things we have to save up for. We are just as capable of making luxury as having it handed to us on golden salvers. It's nice to have nice things. It's nice to be able to afford something you usually can't, or receive something you might not buy for yourself because it is not "necessary" for life (I'm looking at you, delicious salted caramel chocolates, of which I ate two yesterday!).
But isn't it also nice, and luxurious, to put on a girly bathing cap, run a tub full of hot water with bubbles and herbs, put on an audiobook read by Rene Auberjonois, checked out from a library, and opt to just sit for a half hour? Isn't that, really, the biggest luxury of all?

Accio Bath Cap!

2011-01-10T14:21:00.003-05:00

It didn't work, by the way.
I had a lovely stolen day on Sunday. Went to church, then off to volleyball (I signed up for a co-ed team at the community center with some friends), only to find out they'd delayed the season for a week. So, back home. I finally got some things put away, though the house still looks a mess. I watched TV and read a book, and dozed on the couch. There was a Star Trek movie marathon on all day, and later Masterpiece Classic began Downton Abbey.
It was the perfect evening for a bath and a paperback book, which I often do on Sundays. I used a new Lush bomb, one that is meant to smell like strawberry ice cream. It kind of did, but more important was the delicious foam that resulted when I held the slow-dissolving bomb under the tap. I was so entranced by this process that I failed to realize that I had not grabbed my new Victorian Trading Company bathing cap, a Christmas present I'd intended to use at earliest opportunity.
So there I was, already cozied into the water. Helas! The spell did not work, and I went capless. I certainly wasn't going to freeze by getting out of the water onto the chilly floor. As it was, inside all day in wool socks, my toes were cold and rather white. My apartment does not seem to be heating quite as efficiently as last year.
I can only imagine how much more girly bathtime will be next time, with my charming new accessory!

This kid is all right.

2010-12-30T15:28:00.003-05:00

This year, I treated Christmas like a "Do Over" from last year. Last year I was miserable. This year I was as close to fine as I've been for fifteen months. The setting was back in Michigan, and my sister's family was incoming. The weather was perfect--it had snowed, but was not snowing, cold but not icy.

For some reason, I had boundless energy when I got home home...so, I helped out a bit with last-minute chores and goaded my parents to stay on task. When you have 3 1/2- and 1 1/2-year-old children running about, the house needs to be ready. I helped clean and set out a few decorations, and made space for the tree to come in. By the time the family arrived, things were sufficiently Christmasy, with room for the kids to play.

Both kids like our homestead, and there were lots of things to explore: old toys, Christmas decorations, the stairs, and books by the bushel. And then, of course, the presents were arranged, and the house was exactly as it was when my sister and I were little, with new toys and paper strewn everywhere. My niece was old enough this year to help pass out packages, and she profited even more from the fact that my nephew is not, thus she got to open his packages, too.

Beyond the chaos, there was nothing but love. My niece is my sweet little barnacle, following me about while I put up the tree lights, climbing into my lap whenever I had a sit-down, even having a rest with me in my own room. We had "picnics" on the floor while she chattered away to me, making my dad chuckle in the other room. My nephew is a smile champion, and he's walking now, so we were all chasing him around. He thought it was hilarious when I played with his feet at the dinner table, and he enjoyed looking out the window with me at the "car" (my dad's aerial lift--anything with wheels is a "car.")

Some of my favorite moments with the family:

Playing with the kids upstairs, wrestling, tickling, climbing on the beds, and shaking our hands and feet in the air.

Watching my niece and her grandma making cookies.

Having my nephew charge at me with his arms up and a big grin, to be picked up and cuddled.

Reading Peter Rabbit to my niece before we both passed out in my childhood bed.

My nephew's rapturous shout of "CAR!" when he saw the car I bought him (whereupon he immediately started bawling because we were taking too long to get it out of the box).

Making my sister laugh so hard she cried.

Having a firearms lesson with my dad.

Watching my brother-in-law and niece sledding in our yard.

Teaching my niece the difference between translucent and opaque, using Christmas lights (both of those words, from the mouth of a 3-year-old, are adorable).

The first time my mom's "Got a hug for Grandma?" to her grandson was followed not by running away giggling but by arms shooting up to be hugged (albeit not at the best time, when she was trying to shoo him away from the stove).

My nephew holding his hand out to me at the dinner table to be kissed.

Truly, it was a glorious holiday. We all made it back safe and sound, and...well...God bless us, every one.

An Homage to My Sister

2010-12-15T15:07:00.000-05:00

Happy Birthday, Sister!

My sister is a pretty amazing person. And, an amazing pretty person. She has done so many things that I have not done, things I'm not able to do, some even things that I would be afraid to do. Here are fifteen:

Skied. (Toboggan! Snoooooww Tractooooooor!)

Studied Abroad.

Done archaeology.

Worked in a museum.

Gotten a 4.0 in college.

Traveled to Israel.

Gotten married.

Had two beautiful children.

Started a fashion/art blog.

Drawn lovely pictures of Renaissance and medieval ladies.

Made wonderful shadow boxes.

Lived in three states.

Sewed her own wedding dress.

Studied Latin.

Taught me how to put on makeup.

Fashion vs. Food

2010-12-10T15:11:00.003-05:00

Last night I was reminded of a valuable lesson.

I chose not to go grocery shopping so that I could instead trek out to the Franklin Park Mall in Toledo. I had an errand to do up there, and knew there was some weather coming in this weekend, so thought I'd get it out of the way while the getting was good.

Despite the title of this post, that's not the point of this story--I had a reasonably productive trip, picking up a few things for other people and a few things for myself. I'm into tights lately, so picked up some of those and also some new lounge pants (because Lord knows I don't have enough jammies--actually, I wear them so often I am wearing out a few pairs).

No, the point is this:

On my last trip, in November, my eye was drawn to a beautiful jacquard dress in Dillard's, from BB Dakota. I saw it on my way into the mall, and I stopped back to "visit" it on my way out. I didn't try it on. It was $109, which is more than I usually spend on a dress. I didn't even really glance at the sizes.

I always park in the same place at Franklin Park, and once again as I headed into Dillard's I was arrested by this dress. I went about my business--I truly was looking for a holidayish dress, and didn't find anything the whole time. All too short in the skirt or too low in the top, or not fancy enough, or too fancy. So, as I went back through Dillard's on my way out, I thought, what the heck. I picked up the size 4, the only other option being a size 6, and headed into the dressing room.

I knew it was going to be too big. I could tell even as it hung on the hanger. And it was. Today, I called the Maumee Dillard's, and was told that they don't actually carry that line in their store. The next nearest Dillard's is...well, it's not close. I can't even say that the 0 would fit, so I don't really feel comfortable ordering it.

So, I learned (and you should learn from me) that if something arrests your attention that much, and it's not outside the realm of possibility, then you should probably try it on right away. The saleslady told me that the dress had been flying off the rack. She also asked me what shoes I'd wear, as she'd had varying responses (my answer was obvious--red T-straps). I'm not inordinately upset about all this. I'm perfectly capable of making such a dress, even, but I have other projects going. I'm just a little rueful...who wouldn't be, with such a lovely garment?

Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to go get some groceries.

2010-12-02T12:00:00.006-05:00

Admittedly, I'm not a good photographer. It isn't part of my giftedness. My sister could certainly do a better job. But I received this amazing dress in the mail from my aunt and cousin. I know nothing of its beginnings, only that it came from ebay and received some "adjustments" as my aunt put it, to take care of some repairs. She seemed sure in her note that it would not fit, but it most certainly does.
Other elements of the outfits:
Gloves: bought at Jeffrey's Antique Mall in Findlay. I just noticed yesterday that I may have two right gloves, though I have no idea how that happened.
Necklace and earrings: pearls, provenance unknown. Probably a relative.
Combs: Pearl and gold, provenance unknown. Possibly Great Aunt Elsie.
Hosiery: Victoria's Secret, seamed.
Heels: T-straps--can't remember the company. Probably purchased at Dillard's or somesuch.
Rainboots: Chooka

Fan: Gift from my sister, purchased in Middleton.
Purse 1: Gift from Aunt Karen
Purse 2: Gift from friend Karin
Choker: Ribbon, purchased at Hobby Lobby (I think)

This last one is my favorite. There's something French about it I can't quite define.

Suspense!

2010-12-01T12:36:00.002-05:00

I have something tres charmant to tell you about and show you. The only trouble is, it requires some time that I haven't had lately. I have some excitement about working on it tonight maybe, if I get enough work done, and then will try to do some posting Thursday or Friday.
My weekend ahead is very, very busy, and I haven't done the best job at getting my work done lately. I'm grateful for the mood boost that my med has provided, but it has destroyed my once brilliant willpower. When you are not as capable of feeling guilt as you have been your entire life, it's hard to make yourself perform tasks as opposed to, say, cuddling up on the couch and watching TV and reading a book (simultaneously--my ability to multitask is undiminished).
So, rest assured, I'm working on something amazing for you, revolving around something amazing that was given to me. Hint: Aunt Deb and Maggie, this is all about you.

Nostalgia: Dorm Edition, Avec Ma Belle Soeur

2010-11-15T12:11:00.003-05:00

My classes are writing Proposing a Solution essays right now. Many of them select campus-related issues, and it never fails that every year I get plunged into nostalgia for my dorm years. I lived in one dorm all four years of college, in the same room for three, and had classes strewn about the Michigan State campus.
One essay in particular was about bike travel on campus; the student mentioned the lengths of walks to class here at BGSU, with the tops being about 20 minutes. MSU, of course, is giant in comparison, and I was reminded of my long hikes, particularly in driving snow and frigid temperatures (though not barefoot, uphill both ways). For instance, one term as a freshman I had to walk from my dorm, Mason Hall, to Wonders, clear across campus, which is about 1.15 miles according to a run mapping program (and if I'm remembering my route correctly). Then, I had to walk from Wonders to Brody, an additional .65 miles. After this, I had to walk back to Mason, which was about 1.35 miles (again, I had to guess at the route I would have taken, which may not have been the most efficient and may have even been longer). Sometimes, I recall, I shifted my route to avoid wind gusts, especially heading out to Wonders.
When you're walking with a backpack and early in the day (this was all before lunch), this takes you some time. I remember it took me about half an hour to get out to Wonders, 25 minutes on a good day, and an additional 15 minutes or so to get to Brody. Then it easily took me forty to forty-five minutes to get back to Mason, as they were quite literally at opposite ends of the campus. I'm a fast walker normally, but I definitely remember trudging in the winter, certainly not at top speeds.

In my mind for the last few days has been a very distinct memory of one such day. It was bitterly cold, and snowy to boot. I was wearing one of my giant wool sweaters. On my way back to the dorm, all I could think about was lunch, something hot from our good cafeteria (dorm food, and the way they pay for meals, here at BGSU is not so good--I was spoiled). I wouldn't even go to my room, but take my exhausted, hungry self and bag straight into the dining room. As I was scanned in, I noticed that my sister and her friends were seated at a table. If I was in the cafeteria today (although it doesn't exist anymore), I could show you exactly where they were: righthand side of the righthand long tables, between the pillars.
My sister and I lived in the same dorm for a year, one floor apart, I as a freshman and she as a senior (it was not considered unfashionable to live in a dorm the whole time you were at college, especially when you lived in a nice building like ours). Yet, we hardly ever saw each other. She and I had very different schedules. We very rarely ate together, especially since I was at dance classes all evening, right through normal dinner times. But for once, we ended up at the same place at the same time.
I was welcomed at their table. I remember specifically that I had clam chowder. My sister and her friends were very kind to me, asking me about how things were going and commiserating with my ridiculous walk. It was a few minutes' oasis in the middle of a busy day, and I have always been grateful for it, being accepted by senior honors students and treated like an adult and a friend.
I often think of that lunchtime when it is bitingly cold and windy here on my current campus, remembering how comforting the environment was, and wishing the same sort of warmth for my own freshman students.

Shabby Apple All That Jazz Dress Guest Giveaway

2010-11-11T16:03:00.004-05:00

Shabby Apple All That Jazz Dress Guest Giveaway

You probably know me well enough by now to know that I am very fond of thirties and forties fashion. Why? I don't know. The fact, though, is that I own several pairs of shoes, have bought dresses, and have made dresses from this era.
Shabby Apple, which I found through Grosgrain, has just come out with a new, beauteous line, which is right up my alley. Svelte but modest, each dress has a little fire and sass and a yet is eminently sensible. How can you not love this?
We have Ain't She Sweet to the left, and below is Syncopation and De'Lovely. The best news of all is that Grosgrain is doing a Giveaway! Resistance is futile! Check it out, mes belles!

Questions from Cloud of Secrets

2010-11-08T12:44:00.002-05:00

Two for one blogger day. I got tagged!
Cloud of Secrets tagged me to answer some "I love your blog" quiz questions. Thank you, Sister!

The rules:- Do an entry with the prize.- Answer the questions.- Give the prize to 10 blogs.

1. Why did you create the blog?
To be truthful, it's because I like talking about myself. Also, many of my friends had a blog, and I thought it would be nice to stay in touch with their inner thoughts, and share some of mine. Indeed, my first blog entries (and probably many of them since) are intensely chattery. I'm terrible about keeping a journal or diary on a regular basis. Blogging is more manageable.

2. What kind of blogs do you follow?
Mostly family and friends that I know in person, but I also follow Grosgrain (Kathleen is so clever, and she and I kind of look alike) and {this is glamorous} (for a bit of enchantment).

3. Favorite makeup brand?
I guess it's still Cover Girl, even though I seem to be allergic to some of their products. For eyeshadow, though, I have a great Physician's Formula set for blue eyes, and for lipstick I now wear Revlon.
If you ask about bath products, I will say LUSH (who do some cosmetics also).

4. Favorite clothing brand?
Difficult to say. I guess I buy most of my clothing at Forever 21 at this point. Is that sad? I don't know--it's awfully hard to find clothes that really fit me in department stores because I am juniors-sized in a lot of areas, even though I don't follow their trends. Some seasons it's completely a no-go.
I used to buy tons of stuff from the Victoria's Secret catalog, but lately I haven't seen as much that I fancy. I'm not sure why. Their boucle sweaters are still my go-to.

5. Your indispensable makeup product?
Um...I guess some kind of lip product. I really rely on concealer, powder, mascara, and lipstick, but on days when I go mostly makeup free, I still put on some lipgloss or something, although it doesn't always look that great when my face isn't made up. For work I definitely rely on colorstay liquid lipstick, with a gloss. As my sister confessed of herself, I have pale lips and have no idea how to make that work without some color.

6. Your favorite color?
Easy. Blue. Is it because I have blue eyes? I don't know. But I love blue. My niece and nephew's gift to me last year was a few delightful lengths of blue printed quilt fabrics, basically combining two of my favorite things in the universe.

7. Your perfume?
My favorite scent is from LUSH's Something Wicked This Way Comes...only it's not been made into a perfume. I wish! I have a number of perfumes that I wear off and on, but like my father I am sensitive to heavy fragrances. I like my Ginger, spritzed into the air and walked through (it's strong). I also like my Potion lotion as a fragrance (both by LUSH).

8. Your favorite film?
This question is so hard for me to answer. I usually say it's a tie between Jaws and Sleeping Beauty. Jaws is a very complete film. It is adventurous and horrific, but also includes a study of humanity. Sleeping Beauty is beautiful and lush, adorable and also a little spooky. I still get a little creeped out during the green-light-following scene.
I also love the Ehle-Firth Pride and Prejudice, Fantasia, Lord of the Rings, Harry Potter, Indiana Jones, Star Trek, Star Wars...I'm all over the place.

9. What country would you like to visit and why?
Egypt. I have always been interested in Egypt's mythology and attitude toward the dead. I am also fascinated by the idea of a souk. How can you not want to go to someplace called the Khan el-Khalili? (Although I'm more interested in Luxor than Cairo, generally).
At the same time, the idea of such a trip terrifies me. It's not someplace I think I could go alone, as I generally travel, and the undertaking involved when I don't travel well anyway is daunting. It's also less safe than most of my journeys, with more difficult travel arrangements, more ways to be ripped off or misunderstood, and fewer things that I can eat safely. Someday, if I have the money and sense of adventure, and health, I might make a go of it.

10. Make the last question and answer for yourself.
What is a talent you suspect you possess but have never thoroughly explored?
A recent conversation with my Dad made me think of this--I suspect I could become good at handgun shooting. He taught me to shoot once, and I wasn't so hot with a heavy rifle, but I did pretty well with the handgun, especially for my first time. We even tried me on shooting a piece of wood going town the creek, and I got it after a couple of tries.

A couple of blogs I'm tagging for fun:
Carrie (or Paul) at Chasing Paper
Kathleen at Grosgrain
Jill at Tales of a Librarian
Laura

Mall Crawl

2010-11-08T12:09:00.003-05:00

I gave myself the privilege and pleasure of having a real weekend. Very little work, two hockey games, lots of relaxing on the couch and reading/watching TV/doing word puzzles, and...the mall.
I haven't been to the mall in Toledo for a while. The last couple of times were associated with doctor's appointments, since my gastrodoc is right next to the Franklin Park mall, and my mood wasn't exactly the best. But I'd planned for a week and a half to take this chance, since I know this week is going to be bat-crazy, and future weekends are tied up.
I dressed simply--dark jeans, basic ivory sweater, ivory and pink scarf from London, pink and gold bracelet, brown boots, hair in a top knot. I wanted to look smart but not too smart, sort of svelte but in a lithe, carefree way.
I had a blast. Three and a half hours or so of madcap shopping. I started as I have recently always started, by buying a chai latte to carry around with me. This at least stops me from picking up too many things initially. I took myself off to Victoria's Secret and had a browse, settling on some cotton undies. I then stopped in to New York & Company, and here I had a surprise. In the past, I've found things there, but lately, not so much. The colors just weren't right. But their fall stuff is really great for someone like me, craving soft, feminine, but practical career clothes. I bought a great pair of wide-leg trousers in a sort of dark denim color, a blouse with sparkling pinstripes, a wonderfully soft acrylic (how is it possible?) baby blue cardigan with a ruffle front, and, lo and behold, a brown cardigan--People, brown cardigans are NOT easy to find right now, and I really needed one, in a pure brown color. And there it was--on the sale rack! I could not have been more delighted with my purchases, and probably could have gotten more, except that I was so in love with what I'd already gotten.
I hit up all my usual stores (Charlotte Russe, H & M, Forever 21) and came away with a gray cardigan, a burgundy cardigan, a black zip cardigan (my sister will laugh--I'm a cardigan addict! And two out of three or those are ruffled), a beige sweater dress, a blue pinstripe shirtdress (a bit of a gamble), some lounge pants with owls, some tights, and goodness knows if I'm forgetting something. I also popped into Sephora and bought a couple of Philosophy things to round out my bath and shower options for a while. Wet Seal was a bit of a disappointment this time, and I failed for once to find anything at Love 21, the accessories store (although that was probably because it was my last stop of the day).
I also had a hilarious encounter with some gentlemen at Ticknors. They had a long, black frock coat that had been made for the wife of a customer, though evidently she changed her mind. It was very small, and I'm sure I was the first customer to come in that it would fit, so they absolutely had to put it on me. I duly walked it for them for a few minutes, until I was so roasting hot I had to take it off. "Only" $350, and the sleeves were a bit short so they'd need to be let out, but the length of the coat itself was, in the words of their leader, "perfect."
The hardest part of the trip was part of my mission for being there: brown boots. For some reason, there are all kinds of black boots in the shape I wanted, but no suitable replacement for my brown ones. Finally, I hit up JC Penney, and I was sorry I hadn't tried them earlier, because I found boots that were about as close to the ones I have, which are shredding, as I could get. I got a $100 pair of boots for $40! I'm really hard on boots, so it's important that I don't pay too much. If I get an expensive pair that will last forever, they're going to look awful and I'll get tired of them, so I like to keep it cheap. I was so excited to cross that off my list.
By this point, I was carrying seven shopping bags, the boots themselves being quite a large item, so I hit up the last few spots and carried myself on out, after a brief twirl around Dillard's dresses.
I admittedly looked like a train wreck. A top knot is not the best idea when you're going to be trying on clothes, and I somewhere lost two bobby pins, probably when I almost got stuck in a dress at Forever 21 (small really meant small). But who cares? I had a blast, and birthday amnesty month (in which I can buy whatever my little heart desires, within reason) has been a smashing success!

PR: Final Thoughts

2010-10-29T14:27:00.002-05:00

I didn't watch the judging this week; I've found that I don't really care what they have to say, and I just gave that part of the show a miss on mute. (While doing so I did notice, however, the blank look on Jessica Simpson's face. I'm sure she had things to say, but every time the camera cut to her, she looked like she was in space. I don't believe she's dumb, but she's not doing herself any favors in not cultivating an expression of intrigue or interest.) I didn't watch the beginning reunion either. In fact, when you get right down to it, I only watched the collections, and even the final announcement I watched on mute.
Here are my collection responses:

Andy:
I liked Andy's textiles a lot. I could see his heritage in them, but I also am a sucker for shiny silks and so on anyway. Regarding the headpieces--I stand by them. I liked them; they added a dimension of fantasy to the collection, and I found them far less distracting than Mondo's. I would probably wear most of Andy's pieces. His looks fit my aesthetic, particularly for summer. Granted, they were mostly business casual, the type of thing you might wear to an outdoor wedding, or in the evenings at a resort (hello, resortwear), but I liked their sleek, feminine lines.
My least favorite look was the tank top with the knotted front and the gray pants with the weird notched legs (the second look, I believe). It was very gray, and not a very interesting silhouette.
My favorite look was a mash-up of looks seven and eight--the silver patterned pants with the ruffle-necked blouse. I think those would be gorgeous together. And I would straight-up wear one of the headpieces, too.

Gretchen:
So, the collection that included several pairs of granny panties won. I liked one of her textiles, the irridescent brown one. But I really am not a fan of her main print textiles, and a lot of her shapes were unflattering. I don't have a problem with Gretchen as a person, as many do, but from my feelings on fashion, I just can't get behind this collection. There was a distinct aesthetic, but they all had that. There just didn't seem to be any....grace here, even with the movement of the lighter fabrics. It didn't make me say, "Yes."
My least favorite look is still that hideous black, short-sleeved blazer over panties. Let's remember for a minute that a runway can be about fantasy--who would fantasize wearing that?
My favorite look was the brown, short-sleeved blouse with the irridescent wide-leg pant. I'm not sure why...it just seemed like something that would suit me and be comfortable, and I actuallly liked both of the pieces.

Mondo:
I didn't especially care for Mondo's aesthetic in his collection; of course, I rarely do. I respect his vision, but I wouldn't wear it...in some cases, I feel like I already have. In fact, a lot of his silhouttes reminded me of what I wore as a teenager in the late 80s, early 90s, those big T-shirts with leggings, in particular. As noted above, I found his 80s bows distracting and...a little childish, maybe? It felt too much like a throwback collection, even given his inspiration, which was unique.
My least favorite look is the stretch leggings with the oversized taupe top with the embellished skull design. When it came down the runway I did a double take, and not in a good way.
My favorite look (I guess) is the black jacket with the knit sleeves showing underneath, and the check pants...I can't quite believe I identified two pairs of high-waist pants as my favorites, but I feel like I didn't have a lot to work with here. The spangledy look that came before it wasn't bad, either, and I still like the blouse in the first look, also seen last week.

PR: Winding Down

2010-10-22T15:23:00.002-05:00

I didn't post last week. I reversed my usual order of viewing and watched Fringe while recording PR, then I half-watched PR and fast-forwarded through whatever looked like nonsense. It kind of worked--I didn't watch obsessively, so I could ignore what would annoy me. I did it again this week, for the home visitations and the mini-collection stuff.

Do you know what? It turns out that Project Runway isn't that interesting a lot of the time. I always talk about watching the designers' processes as being a positive, but when you don't really care that much about the individuals in question stylistically, or you're not attached to them I should say, and when the show is more concerned with drama than the creativity anyway...well...I throw up my hands and jut out my hip, as Jack McFarland would say. Why watch it the same way just because that's how you've always watched it? This way, I still get to see the clothes, but the experience isn't so abrasive.

Last week:
I thought it was awfully rich for Christian Siriano of all people to be sitting in as the guest judge, and then the judges attack people for repeating themselves. How many pairs of black skinny pants does one girl need? Siriano's final collection, while dramatic and well sewn, was dreadfully repetitive, and reminiscent of everything he produced in the season. Yet that is the very reason April went home.

The clothes last week were admittedly deflating. Are the producers pushing too hard, or did the designers burn themselves out too early? I don't know the answer, but there really wasn't any power in the results:
Andy went to a park and came up with a Matrix dress. Surrounded by organics and natural lines, he comes up with something artificial and "wet." I could not get behind this concept at all, and thought the final product was whorish.
April went to the bridge and created the same kind of look she's always made. I liked the fit of the top a lot--that cut out thing is hard to do neatly. But when you're sent somewhere to be inspired, it seems like you should show something inspired. Inspiration suggests something new worked into your aesthetic, a new spin or new tendril, and there was nothing new or twisted about April's look. It also looked like a costume...like maybe a sci fi maven from a previous year's challenge.
Gretchen's look--I'm not sure what to think. I was actually kind of intrigued by the jacket. The skirt, though--I swear I have a pattern for just that skirt, with a lace overlay. Then the blouse was kind of a throwaway. As with April (and, to be fair, everyone) this didn't seem at all inspired.
Michael went to the Statue of Liberty and created a black, draped gown with an uber-slit. The dress was pretty, but I was shocked to see the judges fawn over it so much. Yes, it moved beautifully, but it's goddesswear. Just like the dryad dress from weeks ago. Most controversial is his lack of knowledge on the fabric. I can't decide how I feel about this. I don't always know what I'm using either, but I'm not on TV trying to prove my design prowess.
Mondo's garment didn't appeal to me either. It didn't fit well, and it wasn't surprising or unique. The one interesting thing is that the top of the dress sort of looked like a backward blazer (particularly when you look at it from the back).

This week:
We are seeing this season how PR has changed over the years, and sensing that it has lost its mojo. This was evident to me as I viewed the mini-collections and heard the judging. No one agreed this week. The judges were contradicting each other, and just seemed to circle and circle. I always thought it was weird that they didn't disagree more actually, so perhaps this is just a more authentic judging. But it also felt too divergent to be trustworthy. Additionally, the kinds of things they were supporting were the opposite of what they'd have been supporting at the beginning of the show.

Witness Andy. I actually liked Andy's looks and, get ready for it, I enjoyed the headpieces. Sorry, judges (and bloggers): I may be in the minority, and I don't care. I thought they were interesting and I enjoyed the extra dimension. I liked Andy's silver look, but not the fit of the shorts. The bathing suit was just okay, and I did question its function in a mini-collection. The green dress was too short, but I appreciated that he did something interesting with his textile, and that he used colorful Laosian fabrics.
I didn't care for Gretchen's looks at all. They were kind of sad. The hang-butt dress was probably her best, but it looked kind of dated, and the fabric was not attractive on the runway--in fact, its wrinkling made it look like the model just rolled out of bed and slung something on. The pants and blouse looked even more dated and unsophisticated, and I found the coat and panties just bizarre. I don't get the cohesion Tim was talking about at all. A fashion show is about wanting more, more, more. I don't want more of any of these ideas or garments.
People cooed about Michael's 11th look, but I have to level with you--it looked sloppy. The way the fabric was cut made it look kind of cheap. I loved the beaded strap and the belt, but the shape of the dress just didn't thrill me at all. The feathered skirt look was interesting, but the shape seemed awry, and the fit of the top a little baggy at the waist. Still, this was his best look. I can't even talk about the fringe top and bell bottoms. It looked like a dance recital costume. A messy one at that. End of story.
And Mondo. I actually liked his print short and blouse, though not together. At least there's a concept there. I didn't care for the fit of his brown and black skirt, and wasn't into the dotted dress, though you can certainly see that on someone like Heidi. I've liked or at least respected some of Mondo's work in the past and hated other things. This week I was merely ambivalent.

In sum, I was disappointed. When looking at these mini-collections, I actually liked Andy's best. I liked the aesthetic of them. I'm glad that I will get to see his full collection, because I actually want to see more.

Style Inquiry

2010-10-13T17:07:00.004-05:00

What's your favourite fashion accessory?
I’m not sure I can even answer this question. Lately I’ve been into stretchy beaded bracelets and big rings; however, I also take these off when I teach or grade. I like the way they look, but I can’t keep them on.
I used to love earrings, but my ears didn’t, and I found out I’m allergic to nickel, which a lot of earrings involve in some way. My ears are very sensitive generally.
As far as actual fabric accessories go, I love scarves. I have a bunch, and I wear all of them a lot. I also love cardigans and hoodies, though I usually consider those as a garment rather than an accessory.

Who's your fashion role model?
I have always been fond of Katharine Hepburn. She was one of the first women to officialize pants for women. She didn’t like wearing gowns, but she looked beautiful in them, and her era of gown fashion is one of my favorites.
Although she has her misses, I’ve admired Nicole Kidman’s red carpet style for a long time, as well as Cate Blanchett’s, though I can’t say I’d model myself after them particularly. I would, if I were to be on a red carpet, wish to be sleek, glamorous and feminine with just a hint of something special, which is how I think these ladies look at the Oscars.

Cate Blanchett, photo Daily Mail

Katherine Hepburn, trousered. Photo from the Katherine Hepburn Cultural Arts Center.

What do you always carry with you?
When I leave the house without a purse, as for a walk, I have my house/car keys, my phone, and my Shuffle. Sometimes I’ll carry a credit card or five bucks, just in case.
I used never to carry a purse, back in the day. I’m not sure now how I crammed things in pockets, but back then I wore jeans with roomier pockets.
When I carry a purse, I have those things plus my wallet, at least one small notebook, my office keys, a pen or two, lipstick, flash drives, my medications “passport,” my ELPH, Dramamine, a mirror, a bunch of business cards, eyedrops, checkbook, a tape measure, and any amount of change and paperclips at the bottom of the bag.
Let’s not even get started on my workbag, which I take every time I go to the office.

How would you describe your style?
Feminine. Sleek. Lush. Coordinated. Comfortable.
Those are just the adjectives that come to mind when I think of my favorite garments. I like bouclé sweaters, satiny or ruffled dresses, fitted blouses, graphic tees, fluid trousers, flared jeans, and comfortable skirts. My look isn’t really modern, and it certainly isn’t urban. It’s hard to describe, so I have to think about what I gravitate toward, which are things that are soft and pretty, things with an homage to my favorite historical periods or places, and things that are practical for teaching in.
Actually, I have a reputation as being one of the more look-concerned instructors in my department; when I bright my A-game, I look like a young professional with a unique flavor.
My style is a lot different from my teenage years, when oversized jeans, flannel, and big T-shirts were de rigueur. Oh, grunge. You were so easy.

What's your favourite? Jeans, sunglasses or heels?
Jeans, sitting on the hips, flared, slightly stretch but not vulgarly so. And cheap. I hate to pay over 30 bucks for a pair of jeans. I also like them slightly long so that eventually the bottoms will fray slightly. I also refuse to wear jeans that have tiny zippers. I sort of bridge the gap between the ultra-lows of these past ten years and the jeans that actually sit at the waist. Every woman has specific demands for her jeans, and I am no exception.
Let me be clear, though—I love shoes, and I particularly love interesting heels. I mix up my wardrobe so that I can justify owning as many shoes as I do. But if someone said to me, you can either wear jeans or heels, but not both, for the rest of your life, I’d pick jeans.
I finally got into the trend of big sunglasses; here’s the thing, though—most sunglasses look too big on my face. My sister used to say I looked like a bug. Now, I do on purpose, just like everyone else. I have to say, the big sunglasses, as long as the frame is fitted to my face, look well on me. Very Audrey. They’re cheap ones, though. I own one expensive pair of sunglasses, Ralph Lauren prescription ones for those days when I want to wear glasses. But they live in the car, in a hard case.

What inspired you to blog about fashion?
Project Runway got me blogging about fashion. I probably talked about an interesting outfit or pair of shoes I’d discovered before, but Project Runway was what made me articulate my views on fashion and, more specifically, the fashions on the show.

What is your favourite fashion store?
Does Forever 21 count? Most of my clothes come from there or Charlotte Russe these days. The problem is it’s very difficult for me to find women’s clothes that fit me. I wear a lot of juniors. I used to love Victoria’s Secret, but the past few seasons have been uninspiring. Same with Wet Seal and Windsor, though I still visit these stores.
Looking back on it, I realize I have run the gamut of clothing stores. I used to be JC Penney, then American Eagle and Eddie Bauer, then Deb and Lerner’s, up through Delia’s and now into Forever 21. I used to like Express a lot, too, but I haven’t found much there lately, aside from some pants. Same with New York & Company, though I still look there occasionally.

What is your favourite fabric in clothing?
What’s the occasion? In JoAnn’s, I’m drawn to silky flower prints that make good dresses. I also love the brocades. I am entranced by Dupioni silk. I own an obscene number of Victoria’s Secret bouclé sweaters because, while difficult to wash, they are lush and soft and I love pulling them out of the “winter” bag every fall.

Who are your favourite designers?
I’m rarely interested continuously in a particular designer. I like collections as a whole, or I’m caught by individual pieces.
For example, I was in Saks Fifth Avenue in Cincinnati recently. I felt wildly out of place, but I traipsed around the designer floor for a bit. Before I’d stirred more than ten steps past the door from my hotel (the store and hotel are attached), I was arrested by a coat—purple semi-ombred, in a jacquard or similar fabric. I promised myself I’d remember who designed it, and even “visited” the coat three times during my stay. It was obviously past my price range, but it was beautiful and I just wanted to look at it. Well, I forgot the designer, and today called Saks to see if they could find it. Escada. $1995. Could I buy it? Yes. But I wouldn’t, in good conscience.

Escada, Fall/Winter 2010

I enjoyed looking around the designer floor for sheerly aesthetic reasons. They also had some rather adorable cashmere sweaters with ruffles on them.
I actually do like Escada overall. They had some gorgeous dresses in the spring/summer line. I also am fond of the present Louis Vuitton for fall. I used to follow Prada shoes, and have been attracted to their garments in the past. I also like Burberry, which in a lot of ways meshes with my style. If I had the money, I’d go for Burberry and Escada.

Burberry, Fall/Winter 2010, Photo from The Chocolate Fashion Blog

Who or what inspires your style?
I am very affected by what I am reading or watching at the time. For instance, every time I watch The Mummy, I get the urge to curl my hair and wear a blouse and khaki skirt or pants, like Rachel Weisz’s character. I also get out my white cotton nightie.
I am inspired by time periods. I like the 40s and 20s, and tend to put styles together with those eras in mind. I am addicted to T-strap shoes, for instance, with a 40s-style heel. Sometimes I buy Vogue Vintage patterns from the 30s and 40s in particular.
I suppose I sometimes borrow from a TV character—like Chuck on Pushing Daisies. But then again, I have had students tell me that I remind them of Chuck anyway, so maybe that’s not me borrowing so much as we’re already alike.

Chuck, Photo from Ladylike

I’m inspired by basic fabric and color, also. I can’t remember exactly how I got onto my bouclé kick, but I think I just saw a nice color and shape and went for it—actually, I think my first were two of the same style, burgundy and ice blue, V-neck, perfect for teaching in for the winter but also soft and sleek for me, curve-embracing without being vulgar, pretty but comfortable. When I see a garment in a store or catalog and think it looks cozy or flattering to my figure, I’ll get that.
I guess I am most inspired by my own body, what I know it needs and what I know I can move in. Dance is a big part of my style, and the dance world has always heavily affected the fashion world. That’s probably part of my sweater thing. I could dance in any of my best sweaters and be comfortable.

Would you choose to buy something high quality or make it yourself if you could?
I would buy it if I could. I like to make dresses and other garments, but I wouldn’t like the pressure of having to make a wearable garment if I had an actual goal. When I sew, I like the feeling that if it doesn’t turn out, it’s no matter. My sewing techniques are not the strongest, and I’m always learning as I go. I’ve had some disasters. I can’t imagine what would happen if I had to make a garment out of, say, some expensive silk, and I screwed up. I have made some successful dresses out of inexpensive satins, but as I say, there’s no pressure.
There is the added complication of not being skilled with particular garment elements or techniques. I’ve made several pairs of pants, but only been really satisfied with one pair, having finally located a pattern that fitted me well. I have a very difficult time with lapels for blazers and coats. And I certainly have never really experienced making a garment with no pattern, or if I have, only the barest, simplest item. I have no experience with draping. Someday.

PR: Heidi's Line of Boredom

2010-10-08T11:35:00.004-05:00

I've been on the edge with Project Runway before. I've also said before that I'm seriously reconsidering watching the show anymore. Friends, last night I was so far down that line that I completely muted the judging and wished I'd muted the whole show.
Here's my problem: I kept asking myself, "Why do I bother?" The show was over and I thought, this last hour and a half has been a complete waste of my time. There was no redeeming feature here that made me want to tune in next week. Not one. How can something that was once my favorite show so lose its fun that it has turned into a waste?

The Challenge:
Congratulations, designers: You get to design something that will help me make more money and boost my own drab collection. That is Heidi's challenge this week.
I couldn't agree more with Mondo, who commented that the collection is dull. Activewear can be a lot of things, and it is often offered in gray and black. But it doesn't have to be, nor do the pieces involved have to be boring, which is unfortunately what they are--boring and expensive. (Looking at the collection, there are really only two pieces I'm interested in--one of them is Andy's, and one of them is black, which I already have a lot of, and it's not interesting enough to make me want it for 98 bucks). Thus, I truly think Project Runway missed the boat with this one. This is not good TV or good design.
Then, in the midst of it, Heidi calls for two more looks, and offers the designers "help" in the form of past contestants. This is one of PR's favorite tricks, and not only is it not fun, but it is completely ridiculous to treat it as anything other than drama-mongering. The result was, essentially, bullying from start to finish. And if you know anything about me at all, you know that I abhor bullying.
I also think that Heidi has a queer idea of constructive criticism--telling a designer that maybe a little Yorkie could fit his head through your top is not constructive criticism--it is a wounding insult.
I've noticed this in the past, and it's a function, I think, of fetishizing the judges' commentary. That's right--I'm taking this to a Marxist place. Have not the comments become a commodity? The judges try to be as pithy and wounding as possible to create sound bytes that can be edited and marketed. The mishmash resulting from this editing is hurtful, not helpful. Your best evidence? The fact that they're always laughing at each other's speeches. That is the opposite of constructive criticism. The comments have little to do with ideas anymore, but with dollars for the show. That is the very definition of reification--turning the abstract into a commodity through the process of fetishization. Fashion is already fetishized in many ways, but when even the interaction between supposed mentors/role models and designers crosses that line, the outlook for the show is dark indeed--at least for the original fans that made it succeed.

The Clothes:
I can sympathize with the designers; they must have been wondering if the producers had finally lost it. Even so, they are designers--surely they can do something fresh, right? Sadly, no--and my job is not to provide constructive criticism.

Andy--Andy won. Yet I totally disagreed with the judges' comments that these looks were exciting. The dress is kind of cute, but as soon as they left the runway I instantly forgot the other two. The hoodie, at a second look, appealed to me (but not for the 158 dollars it is retailing for at Amazon), but even that seemed kind of drab. I think Andy won for his fabrication (ie. using the sheer with the stretch), not for the actual pieces.
April--The big cape piece looked a bit like a space princess's workout wear. Her little jacket was cute, but the dress with it was so slouchy and bleak. The black shorts look was once again much too boudoir...like something out of an early episode of Star Trek TNG, on shore leave. These looks were not for the present world and planet.
Christopher--My heart sank for Christopher as soon as the looks came out (or would have, if I cared this week). That gray top looked like a bag, as did his dress (though I liked the pink in it). I actually liked the flutter-sleeved hoodie as a piece, but agreed that the look as collected made no sense. I really didn't enjoy the pants, though I can see how other women would. But just looking at that first gray bag, you knew things would go ill, and indeed, Christopher was auf'd.
Gretchen--Girl sure loves long, slouchy coats. I actually liked the ruched skirt idea; that could have really worked to bring something fresh to Heidi's collection. But there was WAY too much going on with the looks as collected. The crop top look was totally 80s gym. The leggings/biker shorts were unflattering and really didn't go with anything in their respective looks. Gretchen failed to simplify.
Michael C--The first look to come out looked interesting at first; then I realized it was the model, who was working it. In the second, those pumpkin pants--I can't even begin. They are awful. That look all together was incomprehensible and ill-coordinating. The sleeves on the camel dress thing that followed were also perplexing--tight to the sides, and unattractive with that elastic or whatever it was. Utterly distracting from a dress that might have worked better as a sleeveless garment.
Mondo--Oh, these caftans. Don't get me wrong, I love a caftan, but I don't want to see one on a runway, and one of Mondo's tops was essentially this shapeless. The first top to come out, the grey with pink, I think was reminiscent of Mondo enough to be interesting. I didn't really care for the drape of the long hoodie-coat...it seemed kind of unfitted in a bad way. I also agreed with Kors that the pants were kind of a throwaway (but then, so are most of Heidi's things).

So--disappointing challenge, disappointing results, disappointing behavior. I wish I wasn't feeling so negative about it all, but it really is becoming a poor use of my time to watch a show that frustrates me so, a show I'm not enjoying nor learning from. In the coming weeks, I really need to ask myself why I'm still watching, and figure out if it's still worth the investment.

(edited to add: I just read Carol Hannah's blog, and laughed out loud when she said, "See you next week! I hear they’re going to have the designers make Snuggies and Slankets!" Obviously the past designers are not enthusiastic about this nonsense either.)

Officewear, Sunny October Day

2010-10-06T11:34:00.002-05:00

As I've mentioned, my sister has developed a fashion blog of growing popularity and interest. She often posts pictures of her fully accessorized and throughtful outfits, explaining their inspiration and the provenance of the elements.

I don't want to steal her thunder, but I kind of put myself together today. I'm not sold on the hairstyle, which is a little too slicked back, even with a braid on one side of my head. I also know that in some circles I'd be called "matchy-matchy," but since I don't see that as a problem, I'm happy with the effect.

The sweater is a Victoria's Secret boucle, and the skirt is La Boutique, I think bought through La Redoute. The skirt has a little pleated godet in the back to give it some kick. The shoes are Mossimo, and I have no idea where the pearls came from.

I'm kind of addicted to nylons with seams, but they're extremely hard to find in nude or tan. While in Cincinnati, though, I found nylons that have a little pale chain pattern in stripes up the legs. Close enough, I say.

PR: You know you're too involved with PR when...

2010-10-01T11:31:00.002-05:00

...you start feeling every emotional nuance of people you don't even know.

Example: Long before Tim started getting choked up, early in the show, I noticed that he sounded very shaky indeed. As he was explaining the textile design elements, I just kept wondering, "What on earth is wrong with Tim?" Even given the family photos, I didn't see any obvious reason for him to be shaken. Then, of course, much later on, he did indeed break down a little, which is also uncharacteristic of the show editing.
I still have a creeping feeling in the back of my mind that there is something we don't know.
Then, of course, the whole episode was an emotional train wreck. I'll be straightforward here: Just now, I'm particularly emotional myself. I know a lot of people who are hurting. So, tissue usage was a big factor of my evening last night, as I cried partly because the designers were crying, but also because I probably just needed to cry, too (which is also why I watch "If You Really Knew Me" on MTV). I know how I'd feel if I were in the midst of a crucible-style competition, exhausted, drained, out of ideas, and my mother showed up. No dry eyes here. I know I'm being emotionally manipulated to keep me watching, and really, I just don't care. Not on this occasion.

The challenge:
What's interesting is that this was really a pretty straightforward challenge--make a look with a textile you designed. The textile should be personally resonant. I love this, because I would love to design my own textiles.
Yet it became clear that not all the designers were able to apportion their energies in a helpful fashion. Nina is bored, people--watch out! I think Heidi said it best while complaining that the outfits were not memorable. And the sheer fact that the judges disagreed so heartily about many of the outfits, which should be encouraging (chacun a son gout) was actually distressing--they couldn't really decide what they disliked most. Most disappointing, though, was the way many of the prints were hidden in the garments. Very few designers showcased them effectively.

The clothes:
Andy: I liked Andy's print. I thought it was sort of stained-glass like from afar, and up close it was pretty. I liked the idea of the bubbles. The otufit, though, was dull and flat. It didn't look well composed, and it was baffling in its shape, unflattering to say the least. I honestly thought Andy was a goner.
April: April's print rocked. I loved it. The dress she made struck me as a little party dressish, and it was messy, but it was also urban, which the judges favor. I also noticed on the runway that the model did it no favors by the way she was standing, slouching and dejected looking. I know the runway time is long and arduous, but that was a moment where she was caught out big time. I would have liked a different skirt with this dress. Again, though, mad props to the print, which was organic rather than graphic, as most of the designers did. I actually, in retrospect, might wear this outfit, given the opportunity.
Christopher: The print was all right, but it looked a little wishy-washy as delivered. What is it with designers and water inspiration this year? The pieces here were well made and wearable, but the choice did not show off the print well. Wouldn't it be better to highlight the print with, say, a beautiful dress or skirt? Rather than sending down yet another pair of pants? There have been SOOO many pants this season. Pants are hard to make, it's true, especially quickly, but when they are constantly in the same colors and types of fabrics, it all becomes a blur. I think a beautiful dress design could have made this print pop. Perhaps they weren't given enough of the fabric, I don't know. I feel like Christopher just doesn't want to be impressive, and I'm not sure why.
Gretchen--The top was like any number of Gretchen's other tops--sleeveless, loose in the front, minimal. It didn't look that well constructetd I agreed with Tim about the yoke of the pants, rather than Heidi. I felt fine about the print and its size, which was a point of contention, but as with Christopher I don't feel it was shown off very well, and I didn't care for the look as a whole. The pants were really unflattering.
Michael C--Michael's print made me think of a handbag or a coat. I actually kind of liked the binding and edging component of it, and his comment on his family, "They have a bunch of secrets," really seemed to gel with the dress. It's a dress for a woman with secrets. It was interesting, but here again I was distressed that the print was basically hidden. Was not the print meant to be showcased?
Mondo--I really don't like high-waisted pants. I think I've probably said that before. I do understand that they're "fashion forward" right now, even if I dislike them. I do like Mondo's top, as small as it was. Seeing the various garments go down the runway, didn't you know Mondo would win? His pieces were well constructed, and he established a vibrant look. It was the most interesting of the garments. Actually--I just noticed in the picture that the shoulders of that jacket are sort of matadorish, just like one of his pictures. That makes me like the outfit more, as a non-literal homage. I would definitely wear the top and jacket.
Valerie--I liked Valerie's inspiration a lot...blueprints and drawings remind me of my own dad. I was disappointed, though, that the print was almost completely hidden. I actually kind of liked the idea of the skirt, but the silhouette of it wasn't quite right. The top is so very 80s, and I was worried for Valerie when I saw it in the workroom. The two halves don't really match. That being said, I still found her garment more wearable than Andy's.

PR: High Fashion or Just High?

2010-09-24T11:12:00.003-05:00

There is so much going on today that I hardly know where to begin. I will just first get in a public Congratulatory Shout-Out to my dear friends Carrie and Paul, who are new parents as of this morning!

On to the Runway.
The Challenge:
I have to admit, I'm not really a big fan of the L'Oreal make-up challenges or the Garnier hair challenges. This one had big stakes ($20,000 is a lot of cash, and an advert is huge), but it seems like the designers' skills and styles really didn't coordinate with the demands.
Am I alone in feeling like none of the designers this year really have truly high-fashion, couturieresque skills? Maybe I have an inflated idea of high fashion, but it seems like this season everyone has either a casual style of some sort, or middle-end evening (hence some of the pageanty/prommy results). There isn't anyone with the Daniel V. craftsmanship and taste, or Kara Saun's razor-sharp tailoring with lush fabrics, or even Christian Siriano's slickness. Part of what made those contestants exciting is that, sure, they made blunders, but they could rise to the challenge of grandeur. And this disparity isn't a disparagement of the current designers; some have made truly unique pieces, and many wearable pieces. But their points of view don't seem to mesh with this challenge. Is it any wonder we had such anemic results?
As far as "step two" goes, did anyone else notice how half of the designers composed a ready-to-wear that was a basic dress with a strip of varying widths in the middle? Andy, April, Christopher, and Mondo. It was a little repetitive.

The Clothes:
Andy--His high-fashion look was high-fashion. It was also very costumey--creative, but costumey. It reminded me of a Borg fashion show. I did appreciate the fabric choices, though. The ready-to-wear dress was a little dull. While I like the layering of the textiles, the sleeves seemed kind of juniory. It didn't seem like a grown-up dress.
April--Very black and pointy. I was intrigued that she choose to add a little faux (hopefully) fur to give the look more texture. The back, though, with the pick-up bustle, was kind of messy. The fabric of the ready-to-wear dress was nice, but I hated the zipper up the side. From the front, the chiffon jacket looked all right, but from the back not so much--too much like wings. April certainly has an aesthetic, but I am so very tired of black jaggedyness, the same way I was with Siriano's black pants all the time.
Christopher--The high-fashion look was a mess. I thought I would like the appliqued lace, but the effect ended up being kind of 80s. The sleeve poof and the giant poof around the middle were entirely unflattering. It looked like he just hurled a bunch of things at the dress form and called it a day. The ready-to-wear was, by comparison, dull. It was daywear, so it had that going for it, but the fit of the top was questionable.
Gretchen--Her look was not very high fashion to me. I did like the back, and didn't mind the fabrication, but it said kind of boudoir robe rather than high-fashion clothing. The inset at the front was also very dull. I didn't dislike the look, could even see myself in it, but I thought she was going to get creamed, especially when the ready-to-wear came out. The relation between the looks wasn't very clear. The drape of the top of the skirt was nice, but the top of the top was unflattering. I don't know. I'm not sure what happened here.
Ivy--I actually liked Ivy's colors, as the designers seemed to, even if the judges hated it. I didn't mind the bottom part of the skirt of the high-fashion look and thought it flowy, but the top of the ready-to-wear would have been better with the skirt of the high-fashion, with some adjustments. The pieces were unfinished, and the skirt of the ready-to-wear was bunchy, just like Christopher's. As is, the first piece did look like a prom dress and the second looked like what it was--a dress with no time to construct it.
Michael C--He sure does love the weird hip shapes and extensions, doesn't he? I didn't see until the judges pointed it out that the high-fashion hem was wired. I don't think that quite worked. If you look at the picture of the garment, with the little magnifier circle over it, you notice other weird inconsistencies. For example, the dress is pretty grand in shape, but the bodice has a very strange and hasty-looking cup construction, and the sweetheart is very obviously and poorly pinched. The ready-to-wear was awful. Hip extentions, overly tight and bunchy bodice.
Mondo--Beetlejuice Beetlejuice Beetlejuice! Okay, just kidding (although Carol Hannah picked up the same thing in her blog). I also thought of Jeffrey Sebelia's tartan number from the couture challenge and his striped dress with zippers, like a combination of the two. And no, I'm not accusing him of copying, that's just what went through my mind (and as Laura Bennett remarked on this, too, in her blog, I am not alone). For once, Kors' snarky comments interested me, when he mentioned the Kentucky derby. It was a little jockey chic, but in a fun way. I didn't like the dress so much as I could see how it appealed to the judges. The ready-to-wear, on the other hand, I really liked. It was the most successful of the stripe-in-the-middle dresses.
Valerie--I actually liked the flow of Valerie's high-fashion, but recognized it as "too pretty," which the judges aren't that into. I liked the diamante, but not in a weird loop sticking out. With the ready-to-wear, I really didn't see much relation beyond a vague sort of angel/hellraiser thing. It certainly wasn't very crystalline.

That's it for this week.

Savage Kicks

2010-09-21T16:30:00.003-05:00

Today, I wore these shoes, with a black knit dress I made forever ago and have never worn, and my red button necklace from Black Swamp.

I got more comments about my shoes today and more looks from strangers than I've ever had in my life. Justifiably so--they are certainly unusual, and you kind of have to look twice to figure out what's going on. As I told the checkout girl at Shoe Carnival, I bought them because they were ridiculous in a good way. They were not shoes I needed, or shoes that were part of a shoe base plan. But somehow, I could not leave the store without purchasing something so unusual in so mundane a setting. My students were in love.

Also, they are very tall.

PR: Remember, She's a Former First Lady.

2010-09-17T13:16:00.004-05:00

Yowza, these PR reports roll around rather quickly, eh?

The challenge:

This episode was about style iconography. In this case, Jackie O. served as muse, or at least she was meant to. She's such a rich subject, but as edited the show was not. The first fifteen minutes were low on drama, which is okay with me except that even what should be highlighted, the fashion creation, was also flat. Granted, American sportswear is not heavy on bells and whistles, but I was still expecting a little more oohing and aahing. Our "surprise" came at roughly 9:25 by my watch--the creation of an outerwear piece. More drawing, back to Mood (and by the way, 15 minutes in a fabric store is simply ludicrous. Except when I have I needed, say, a zipper or a spool of thread, I have never spent under half an hour even in tiny JoAnn's.) Aside from the usual hasty finishing of some designers, even the creation of these jackets and coats was not that thrilling--a shame, since outerwear can be fun and certainly would be for Jackie O. She was married to the president! I don't think anyone really remembered that.

A nice site on Sportswear can be found at the Victoria and Albert. I've been there!

On the upside, I thought there were a few clearly successful garments.

The clothes:
Andy--Taking a risk is one thing. Taking a risk that falls completely outside the challenge is another matter entirely. Could I see Jackie O. in a pair of cargo pants? Never. And those boots--again, never. I can imagine a world in which she might wear the vest, but only with sleek, fluid pants--which Andy has successfully made before, challenge 2. I don't know what he was complaining about with the American sportswear problem. American sportswear is so called because it originated here, not because it doesn't incorporate other influences. In any case, this was a matter of Andy doing what he wanted to regardless of the challenge at hand, and that's never a good idea.
April--April designed a black, front-zip dress and a boudoir cover. It could be described as sportswear, but it was also just a bit too tight and flat. There wasn't anything glamorous about it, and it struck me as too night club to suit Jackie O.
Christopher--Christopher's look was not one I considered successful; yes, the dress was glamorous and sleek, but it wasn't sportswear. Not really. The point of sportswear is versatility; you could wear it for a dressy day at work and then move on to a cocktail hour. If you wore this look at work you would be in trouble. The tie-front fur cover was also ill-conceived. It was kind of cavewomanish; or, more Valkyrieish. None of it said Jackie O., either. I think this was pulled out as top 3 only because January Jones liked the dress.
Gretchen--This look seemed sloppy to me. The top was not very nice (again, another tiny tank top), and the coat and skirt together just looked heavy and droopy. The skirt was okay, it was certainly sportswear, but it was also a little shapeless. I would have liked that jacket in a different context, I think. The outfit didn't come together at all, especially with the styling, which is usually Gretchen's forte.
Ivy--Ivy was hands-down my favorite this week. I loved the cut of the top and the jacket both, and was not at all bothered by the jacket as the judges seemed to be. I was not a big fan of the see-through component of the bottom of the blouse, but liked the updated collar of the neckline. I don't like high-waisted pants all that much, either, but appreciated the way the pieces fit together collectively. I could see Jackie O. in this, it was modern sportswear, and it was uniquely Ivy, with an architecture that wasn't over-the-top but still eye-catching.
Michael C--The dress was nice and vivid, but I didn't see Jackie in it, and it, too, was not really sportswear. The coat didn't go at all with this outfit (and to his credit MC knew this). The coat was actually much more sportswear than the dress. There was simply no relationship between these two items.
Michael D--MD, last week was the resort challenge. Seriously, that skirt and top together were much more young, casual travel/resortlike (as in, a day at museums and a walk along an aqueduct, in different shoes of course) than Jackie O. I thought the jacket worked for the challenge but that was about it. And, indeed, the top of the skirt was much too heavy. That's not really how pleating works at waistbands.
Mondo--You kind of had to know that Mondo would win. It wasn't my favorite, but it was a modern Mondo version of Jackie O, and it had that urban feel that the judges are really going for this season. The silhouette was right, with a runway edge. Unlike Nina, I thought the pattern crossing was kind of tacky, but I understand the combination. I wouldn't wear it, because it's too urban in feel (too Sex & the City, maybe), but I understand why it won.
Valerie--I was afraid for Valerie. Yes, the pieces are interchangeable, but everything was soooooo dark and heavy, and really too casual. It was sort of LL Beanlike; when I saw that vest I thought, is Jackie O. going camping? Camping fashion is great, don't get me wrong, but not for modern sportswear for a style icon.

In other news, Santino singing on Austin & Santino? Absolutely priceless. It's absolutely stupefying how much more I like him now than I did when he was on the show. This is, I think, at the heart of why I hate competition and am myself overly competitive. The crucible of a reality show competition absolutely crushes people's character. In A & S, they're meant to be having fun, and though they're putting in a lot of work, they are also letting their personalities gleam. Shiny.

PR: What's a Resort?

2010-09-10T15:34:00.006-05:00

The Challenge:
When I think of a resort, my mind never knows where to go. I've seen the Sandals commercials like everyone else, as well as Wheel of Fortune prize descriptions of "fabulous resort getaways." I've also seen the Victoria's Secret catalog for resortwear when it comes out. You have the spa element, the cruising around Capri, the long day on the beach, the evening at the bistro on the corner, even a hike through a jungle to a bay or a day spent gambling and gondola-ing around your hotel surrounded by neon. A resort has no pure meaning, beyond relaxation.
The challenge on Project Runway this week was similarly open--resort wear. Michael Kors even proferred a list of many types of clothing that could qualify, from swimsuits to evening gowns. Some designers worked well in these non-parameters and others didn't, but in the end I found myself disagreeing with the judges on many points.
This was clearest in the discussion of Casanova. Please, if you have a minute, travel to Michael Kors' Resort 2009. The judges harped on Casanova for dressing a matronly woman again. I have all kinds of problems with this. First, the look was not matronly. It was subtle and modest, certainly, but not old (as I suspect the judges are using the term). Second, even if the look was for an older patron, who cares? As Casanova correctly stated, resorts are full of a crowd who would like a modest yet still beautiful look. As far as I know, the challenge had no limit specifying youth. Finally, if you have in fact looked at Kors' Resortwear, you will have seen that nothing in the collection is "young" in the sense the judges seem to be applying. In fact, many of his garments look like they are for middle-aged ladies. I can't abide the judges applying criteria they don't use themselves.
Kors, Resort 2009

Casanova, Resort 2010

The other dimension of this challenge is random pairings, making a partner into a sample creator for your design. As Nick Verreos points out in his blog (and for once I agree), sample making is a completely realistic component of the industry, but, designers "also would NEVER HIRE a sample maker/pattern maker with subpar skills." I would further that comment by saying that a designer wouldn't hire a sample maker that doesn't have the traditional, shared knowledge of the industry. And that's why this challenge bothered me, in a nutshell. No matter how good your description is, someone who doesn't use the same sewing language that the industry uses is unlikely to produce the garment you want, even if he or she is a good sewer using self-produced techniques (as, in fact, I kind of do, being self-taught). The description-to-garment line was much too artificial as a result. This episode was such a game component, and I found that discouraging. Additionally, the judging parameters were unclear to me. Thus, in some ways I sympathized with Ivy's concerns; I agree that she dumbed down her design too far, but I can understand why she was having trouble making her industry vocabulary match Michael D's vocabulary. Truly skilled sample makers can make complete garments from a set of drawings. Yet that is not who these people before us are. One falls in the trap of who receives the criticism--the designer or the maker; the real answer is, the question itself is flawed.

The Clothes:
Andy--I loved this. It was my pick for the winner. Commercial? Maybe, but deceptively simple and also beautiful. Fluid, with a nice color choice of the silver and purple. The suit was a little dominatrixy, but it also fit immaculately thanks to Valerie.
April--speaking of dominatrix. The shape was well constructed, and I liked the top of the garment (though not the side loops hanging down on the arms). But I (like Nick Verreos) seriously thought this was a negligee. And that would be okay--you need lingerie at a resort, too--but when I discovered it was meant to be a dress of some sort...I liked it less. And Kristen Bell, I love you, but you would not wear that on a red carpet. The judges were really overstating things with this look.
Casanova--I like it, and I'm not going to apologize for my opinion. I liked the top, liked the lace and the neckline/sleeve shape, and thought this outfit would be perfectly suitable for a dinner at a cafe overlooking the water. I did not like the tie's design in back (a more ribbony tie would have been prettier), and there was a touch of construction trouble here and there, but I would wear this and feel comfortable traveling with it.
Christopher--I didn't like this. It looked kind of like the model was wearing a baby sling. There's nothing wrong with baby slings, but neither the top nor the short said resort to me, or seemed special or comfortable. I thought this would be called out for sure. It would have been prettier as a flowy dress out of the print...in fact, wasn't it, at one point? Or did I misinterpret the mannequin? Anyway, "I did not respond well."
Gretchen--I didn't care for the baggy top, the high-waisted slouch of this jumpsuit. I did like the idea of the pant, though. It was sort of ripply and looked comfortable. But I can't get over that high waist and the whole look is kind of cluttered and drab. Basically, I like the bottom third and nothing above.
Ivy--Having defended her frustration above, I will criticize Ivy's design down here. This look was dull. It's not that it looks bad, just that it is reminiscent of "Project I-Don't-Mind-It." I don't actually mind the use of the light colors, either; pastels are fine with me. The look is just flat.
Michael C--This screamed 70s to me, and then it whispered "pajamas." I hate to say it, but if I saw a woman wearing this at a resort, I might roll my eyes. It's a bell-bottomed jumpsuit. I just can't see it as classy.
Michael D--The top of this look was interesting, but it got really flat and dull the farther down you went. Having worked with linen, I think the one he selected was too heavy for what he wanted to do. It ended up looking like a dress made of denim--shapeless and baggy, despite the interest to the top.
Mondo--It's cute, but kind of Target-y Spring Break Cancun. And again, there's nothing wrong with Target, and spring breaks happen at resorts, but it wasn't especially fashionable or classy. It was more hotel pool out back than resort lagoon.
Valerie--The shape from the back on this was kind of strange and bulky. It looked kind of dated to me, and I don't usually say that. And that chevron print with the high waist? I don't know, guys. I can't get behind this.

PR: Always a Bridesmaid.

2010-09-03T13:14:00.004-05:00

This week was the editors' volte face on Gretchen. Vilifying her last week, this week they turned to showcasing her practicality with Tim and her family connections. I include this as a note only, for those who are following the usual drama.
The challenge was similar to the "old wedding dress" challenge, only this time with bridesmaids' dresses.
I have mixed feelings about the bridesmaids' dresses. I really don't consider them to be as ugly as the designers and judges constantly stated. Impractical, perhaps, but not hideous (in most cases--some of them did have truly strange design details). Designers were also complaining about colors that actually weren't bad--colors they and previous designers have used. It's just seeing them all together that makes them garish. Laura Bennett seems to agree: "The designers all roll their eyes, cover their mouths and claim the dresses are hideously ugly, but I don't see anything worse than what has been sent down the runway this season." And, indeed, on this very episode.
I have seen some bad bridesmaids' dresses in the shops and on the web, but I've also seen some very nice ones. Certainly, they are in unusual colors, but that's how weddings work. You match the colors the bride is using. And are Cynthia Rowley's dresses really that different? In some cases, maybe, but not really. I think it's just traditional to moan about your bridesmaid dress because you didn't pick it and therefore it must be hideous--a tradition I don't agree with at all. On top of this, these particular designers are known for overstating their case and harping on points (e.g. their attitude regarding Michael C.). Thus, I chose to disregard their disingenuous opinions of the original garments as I reviewed their garments.
The best part of this challenge was the Designer Showcase. I'm not a big fan of the voting in front of the designer concept, but I think getting glammed up was great for these ladies, and I appreciated the chance it gave the designers to have a "test run."

The clothes:

Andy--He dyed his material from blue to black, but then made kind of a tarty/streetish shorts and bustier top. With chains, of all things. I liked the pattern in the top, but obviously didn't care for the rest. I couldn't believe I thought this, but I actually wondered if a romper might have worked better and looked cute for the model.
April--I really liked April's high-collared dress this week. I wasn't sure how I felt about the silver fan, but I liked the sleekness of the garment, the sleeve length, and the overall fit, though it was just a bit too short. Then again, I also liked the textile of the old dress.
Casanova--I liked the drape top and the color of the pant with it, but ultimately didn't like the pant itself. And that's all I have to say about the look.
Christopher--The judges went wild over his top. Yes, the one side was draped beautifully; but frankly, the other side looked like he didn't finish and the bra was hanging out. It looked exactly like the cup of a nude bra. It looks better close up, but to me this was a design flaw I couldn't overlook.
Gretchen--Grethcen is very into loose, shapeless, tiny tops, no? Her skirt is too short, and the girl is obsessed with boots. That said, I liked the painting and distressing of the outfit, and let's face it, her model looked chicly urban (again, like most of Gretchen's gear). The best that can be said for Gretchen is that her work isn't boring--it's engaging to the eye, unlike many of her cohorts.
Ivy--Ivy was kind of boring this week. The top was acceptable but kind of plain; though the back draping was pretty, that kind of shirt is not that difficult. The pants are dull, and I'm really so tired of capris and leggings.
Michael C--I actually disagreed a bit with Kors that the length of this dress was rightly proportioned for his model. I thought it was arranged at a place that made the gal's legs look wider. I also didn't care for the hair and makeup styling. I responded well to the top of the garment; I actually liked the puffed lace sleeve. The look as a whole struck me as a bit messy, especially for his model's shape, which seemed athletic and was made boxier by the poofiness of the skirt. It wasn't a bad garment, but not the winner for me.
Michael D--I wasn't big on the bright pink straps either, in line with Tim's comment. I did think the little jacket was cute, and the best part is that his model looked happy. That being said, I agreed with a comment by someone that he didn't do all that much with the dress. It was a makeover rather than a redesign, and thus not terribly innovative.
Mondo--This design struck me as very 80s, and then I heard him say his model was from Jersey City and it all made sense. Unlike Kors, I didn't like his pink stripe/"sleeve" cap, but I did like the shaping of the bodice. The dress suited the model. I thought this was going to be pulled out for the win on the strength of its suitability, even though I personally didn't love it...I am generally against "Jersey chic."
Peach--Nothing went right with this garment, and Peach knew it. The project looked kind of home ec-y and confusing. I couldn't agree more with the problemmatic peplum and there was no consistent style voice here. I was not surprised that Peach went home, but as everyone has stated, she will be missed.
Valerie--This won my WTF of the week. The whole thing looked misshapen and ill-constructed. Unlike with Peach, I think I know what Valerie wanted to do here. But nothing about the execution matches that idea I have amd think she had. It was the wrong design for her client altogether.

Can I be honest? I'm starting to dislike Heidi more than a little. Imagine you are a student who has produced a picture. Your teacher and her TAs come around and as he starts making snarky comments, the TA starts laughing. These people are both bullies. Bullying is unacceptable. So often, Heidi just laughs and laughs at Kors' stupid insults, which get campier and campier as we go. I've noted before their inability to be constructive, but now Heidi isn't even being verbal, just sycophantically giggling. I am "not responding positively" to this.

PR part two: Team clothes

2010-08-27T12:11:00.002-05:00

I'm breaking my PR report in two this week, though in some ways I could break it even in three parts. In my previous post, I delivered my opinions on the last snip of the show, and discussed some of the dynamics of Group Luxe. If you're not interested in a critique of Tim Gunn or a defense of Gretchen, you may wish to skip it.
I originally thought (this was before the last bit happened) that I would do a blog JUST about the clothes. Michael Kors said on the runway something to the effect of, We pay attention to the fashion we've seen today, during the show. My problem with this is that they clearly don't; they spent most of their discussion time psychologizing and ultimately, while I agreed with their final decisions, I did not agree with the way they arrived at them. The judges were making assumptions from the convoluted stories they heard, rather than paying attention to the clothes. So now, while I could have a lot more to say about the group dynamics and the judging, I myself am going to focus on the clothes. I feel better about that, because to be frank I found this episode distasteful in most ways.
For Team Luxe, I am giving a brief descriptor rather than a name, since they did pieces. For the other team, I will also leave character bias off the table as much as possible, even though we know who produced what.

Shirtdress-- This received my WTF of the week. The shirtdress was strange and malformed with a strange fabric choice. The pants were unflattering and bizarre; they made the model's legs look wider, which is a no-no, especially for the inner thighs. A darker color on the inside would have been more manageable. The jabot was also a poor idea, dating the look instead of updating.
White belted jacket--To be quite honest, I liked the jacket. It may be considered dowdy, but sometimes dowdy can be sexy--hence the whole "boyfriend sweater" movement. I also liked the pleating of the red blouse underneath. The skirt was a bit too short. I liked the drape of these elements and while the looks were not especially "modern," I did think they were wearable.
Camel pants--I loved this outfit. I liked the fluidity and smoothness of the pants, really liked the print top, and didn't get a good look at the jacket. The whole thing had a Katherine Hepburn/Lauren Bacall vibe, and I really respond to that. Once again, it wasn't "modern" but given that many fall collections are referring back to shapes of this era, I can't fault this look for that. In fact, I think it's right in keeping with what fall is showing us. I liked overall the way the look moved.
Cowlneck--I quite liked the little camel jacket that came with this. I didn't realize until just now that that cowlneck sweater (which, it must be confessed, was kind of sad), was completely see-through, which is definitely not a point in its favor. I hate the zipped leggings.
Peasant blouse--This look really was pretty awful. I sighed as I wrote, "Oh, shorts." Then I wrote, "Weird." Unflattering, ill-matched, severely outdated. In another context, with a different neckline, I could see a use for the blouse, but the rest looked very thrift store, in a negative way. It looked like old-school polyester.
Cinnamon dress--The skirt of this outfit was too short and too tight; beyond that, I found it wearable and appropriate for fall. In the context of more flattering garments, or as a standalone look in a different challenge, I think this would have done quite well. I like the top of the top and I like the colors. (Special note--the label given to this on Rate the Runway indicates it is Michael C's garment; I don't think it actually is, though I had a hard time following who made what. It was not identified as Michael's during the show. That is part of the reason I am only identifying the look itself here, free from name bias and confusion. The product is the bottom line.)

April--The pants were kind of a strange shape, and the zipper up the back looked like a rip. The little vest-jacket I thought others would wear, though it wasn't my style. It kind of had an urban flavor I don't like. I think often people confuse urban and modern, to the detriment of modern. I did like the way it utilized the lace.
Casanova--Quite simply my favorite look; it was elegant without being too formal. I am not usually a fan of skinny pants, but I thought these complemented the lace top well. And, of course, you all know I love open backs. This shirt is very wearable, but also has some edge. Probably the best at the union of edgy and soft.
Michael D--I am not a fan of the "stringy" look. This look made me think "spider queen." The skirt looked a little sloppy and the top suffered from overdesign, seen in the back, which was a mess. It wasn't as messy as others, but I didn't like it as I would have liked to.
Mondo--I liked the diagonal pleating in what I thought were to be pants--I hated that they were shorts. I also liked the textile selected for the top, and the drape of it, but hated the epaulettes and that striped open back. And, once again, unnecessary leggings. A couple of seasons ago, designers were called out for making leggings. Now, it is almost as if they are necessary for modern sportswear, which I can't abide.
Peach--When this look was held up as successful, I thought I was looking at a different screen entirely. Doesn't anyone remember the sailor-stewardess costume that someone came up with a couple seasons ago? This was really not any different. Yes, the top was nice. The bottom half was hideous, the chains with what wasn't denim but looked like it...awful. So many comments on the Rate the Runway are positive for this look, but I think they're only saying that because the judges liked it so much. I would never, ever wear this, and can't imagine anyone else doing so.
Valerie--The lace detailing on this one was very subtle; I had to look at the close-ups to really get it. white suit with blue leggings--not a fan. The detailing on the jacket, minus the chains, was interesting; there was a sort of fold above the right sleeve that suggested epaulette without being an epaulette that I found engaging. At the same time, I found the look messy. It seems to me that more and more, when people talk about modern clothing, they're talking about something messy, at least on this show, and I wish it wasn't that way. Casanova's look I preferred because it was modern and sleek. It was an update without clutter.

All I can say after this week is, Austin and Santino, if you're out there, thank you for cleansing my palate after a show that made me feel upset and as disinclined as I have ever been to watch Project Runway. Austin and Santino made me smile again, when I felt like I'd been kicked in the gut.

PR part one: In which Tim Gunn spoils my evening.

2010-08-27T11:24:00.004-05:00

In the careers workbook I'm currently working through, in the skills section, Mentoring is listed as the highest-order People skill one can attain. A mentor helps "people deal with problems by giving legal, scientific, clinical, spiritual, and/or other professional advice."
I have always thought of Tim Gunn as a good mentor, someone who listens to a vision, comments with his professional opinion, and does so in a way that does not judge. At times he is called upon to exhort, and he has had to deal with a great many messes in the workroom, but he has done so with aplomb. Even when he has expressed bafflement with the judges' decisions, he has done so calmly and with disappointment rather than anger.
Last night was a game-changer, and I cannot admire Tim Gunn as much as I used to.
I've already pointed out that Tim Gunn has seemed more emotionally invested this season. So, when he began his talk with Team Luxe, I was not especially surprised. But then he publicly shattered Gretchen's character, essentially defaming her in front of her peers, acting very much as though she wasn't even there as he lambasted her.
What was exceptionally griping about this is that what happened was not Gretchen's fault. I mean that. Is she egotistical? Yes. Annoying? Yes. Micromanaging? Yes. A turncoat? Yes. But she didn't ask her team to be sycophants. Did she backpedal on the runway? You bet. But we all knew that the "team spirit" was going to explode on the runway. That is how Project Runway works. It's not her fault that none of her team had the spine enough to disagree with her, or show any ounce of leadership at all. This has happened before--Gretchen is not new. Usually, though, someone else in the group speaks up to put the leader in his or her place. That is the group's job.
In Tim Gunn's speech, all of the negativity was placed on Gretchen's shoulders, most certainly blaming her for the other team members' lack of integrity. He correctly pointed out the team's lack of courage to say anything, but he blamed Gretchen for everything that went wrong (one could see his anger escalate in the middle, and I think he just lost it). What upset me most was his manner of addressing the group, as I said, as though Gretchen weren't present at all. That is not only rude but absurd.
It could have been handled so much more as a mentor should--if Mr. Gunn really wanted to say something, he could have said, "I'm disappointed in you; Gretchen seemed to be pulling the strings here, even though you argued you were a unified team. Gretchen, your micromanaging was a problem, and not collegial. The rest of you need to work on speaking up for your point of view." Speaking directly to Gretchen would have been mature and helpful, especially given Mr. Gunn's credibility in the fashion world.
Instead, Mr. Gunn's anger got the better of him and he has demolished his ability to be objective in the workroom (or at least for me to believe he is objective), or to assist Gretchen, as is his job. As he has said so often in his own blogs in the past, "Shut up, Tim." In essence, he failed to empathize and let his judgment cloud.
All kinds of arguments can be made defending Tim Gunn, against Gretchen, in favor of the rest of Team Luxe, and so on. But here's my bottom line--I know Gretchen. I can understand where Gretchen is coming from, like an A student put in a group for a project, and no one can show initiative, endangering the final product and even the working process. Twice in my life, I have been gently admonished by a superior for making suggestions to colleagues. In my eyes, at the time, I thought I was helping out with colleagues who clearly didn't know what to do and lacked the ability to think of their next step (and really, what I said wasn't an order or a demand, or even a big suggestion). Yet I could understand my superiors' point, and worked on it, especially because it was presented to me seriously but kindly. It would be appropriate, I think, for Tim Gunn to speak with Gretchen, privately, or perhaps during their next workroom critique. Sometimes, people like Gretchen and I need a brief talk to curb our impulses. And perhaps Mr. Gunn's snappish comments will indeed help Gretchen in the future. Even so, the way this was handled was revolting, and worse than Gretchen's own actions, considering her character, that of her teammates, and what actually happened in the workroom.
If you would like a similar commentary from a contestant who has actually been there (and one I also defended in a past season), you can visit Laura Bennett's blog. For a counterview, you can see Nick Verreos's blog.

2010-08-25T16:23:00.003-05:00

Need a dose of pretty to eke out your summer? Go check out some butterflies at my sister's not-so-secret-anymore, amazing blog, Cloud of Secrets.

PR: Chapi Chapo!

2010-08-23T16:36:00.002-05:00

I love hats. I don't think that's a secret. I have to admit--I was disappointed this week in the results in what should have been a very good challenge. Even given the...exuberance of the hats (I'll say it--Heidi's looked like a growth), a creative designer could and should make something sassy to complement Treacy's work.
Take Valerie, for example--she got a LABYRINTH vibe. That suited me right down to the ground. And then her final result was not even close. She lost her way. Or, Kristin--she couldn't come up with the story for an orchid? Really? Miss Organic Process herself? Then, the judging--it was completely strange. Again, we in the TV audience know the designers' process, but even so, nothing made sense. I keep notes not just on my opinions, but also marking who was top and bottom from who got called out--and this time I completely screwed up my Ts and Bs because I didn't wait to hear what the judges thought. It's like I landed in Opposite World, and judging from a few blogs, I'm not the only one who thought so.

AJ--This polka-dot look reminded me a little of the racecourse. Like something you'd wear at Belmont. That wasn't a bad thing, though I did on the whole find it too stiff and poofy. Even the hat had sort of a motion-of-the-horse abstract way about it. That was probably not its intention, but it's what I thought of. Interestingly, the comments are very love/hate on this look.
Andy--The jacket part of this look was a little too voluminous, basically too big all over, but the look was very whole and complete. Also very Japanese, in a way. These elements looked well matched and bold, at least. I am getting a picture of Andy's work that I wasn't expecting from his portfolio, something smoother and a little more...upmarket, maybe? That's not the word I want.
April--This week's WTF moment. I can't defend the underwear look at all. I feel like April is very much in a discovery zone, and you just never know where she's going to fall. I don't feel any trust about her.
Casanova--I agreed with the comment that the dress looked like something you could buy in a store; I didn't get the impression, though, that Casanova thought that was a problem. All that being said, it did look polished and went with the hat well, and the back was really very pretty. I actually would buy and wear this dress, so I guess I can't complain.
Christopher--I love hearing which were the designers' favorites, as I've mentioned before, and I'm glad they stuck up for this outfit. I completely disagreed with the judges that felt this looked like draping fabric; it doesn't. It just doesn't. I liked this garment and I'm not going to apologize for it. It also complemented the hat in a unique way. Judges, I am so over you. I like the silver and the black, the structure of the jacketlike piece, and I even felt this was an appropriate time for leggings. And, while we're on the subject, everyone was down on Christopher because his look was heavy. I'm here to tell you that hats do not need to be buoyant. Where's the fun if all hats and coordinating outfits have to be airy? In fact, most of these hats did not look light to me at all. In fact, the contrast between the lightness of the hat and the drape of the fabric made me like it more, because it was different and thus complementary in another way.
Gretchen--Gretchen went to a kind of Robin Hoody place with this hat, no? I was not really that impressed with her top, though it was a pretty fabric. I'm confused by the leggings/boots. If anyone has figured out what's going on down there, clue me in.
Ivy--Ivy's look was kind of dull this week, and I was confused by what appeared to be fuschia + beige + white + gray. I quite liked the jacket, with the chiffon or whatever in back, but was bewildered by the outfit as a whole.
Kristin--Even more bewildering was Kristin's concoction. Black was a weird choice indeed, and the effect was sort of harlequinesque. I didn't go wtf, but perhaps I should have. In April's case, it was a question of taste, whereas here there isn't even a story being told.
Michael C--I wrote "wood nymph." But the hat was very Stargate, wasn't it? Did anyone else get a Ra vibe? The dress, though it is not ugly at all, was still very dance costumey. The look blended well in color, but not in feeling. Its references were askew. I would wear the garment, but I could also *make* that garment, thus I was unimpressed.
Michael D--I sort of thought this might snake through as the winner. I personally did not care for the skirt, but was intrigued by the top. It wasn't my style per se, but I liked that it was different and an homage to the hat. The petally look was creatively produced. This is a good example as a look that I wouldn't wear, but a look that intrigues me, makes me want to see more, and makes me think about fashion. Thus, I thought it should win.
Mondo--This is another week where I don't "get" Mondo. His outfit clearly said "Mondo" to me before the label came on, but it looks like clown clothes. I really can't bear it. This was a pick for me for the bottom three.
Peach--Pink floral with a zebra hat. I think Peach is just producing what she produces regardless of the challenge at hand. She could have sent this down the runway for really any other challenge. That troubled me, and made me want to keep an eye on her, as you would a child doing something mildly disturbing that you may want to curb if it happens again.
Valerie--Once again, a disappointment. The dress and jacket are certainly wearable, but why this was in the top three is incomprehensible. It wasn't very creative, and referred to the "hat" not at all. What happened to Labyrinth? It doesn't have to be black--Jareth wore lavender, for pete's sake!

By the way, there's someone who lives on a neighboring street with this license plate:
GBLN KNG.
Love.

Dream "Man"

2010-08-17T16:02:00.004-05:00

I had a dream about my SyFy boyfriend, Josh Gates last night. He was a guest in my home-home, and my parents and sister were also there, so it was a full house. He was nice to everyone, but he kept being a goofball and dropping things on the floor (styrofoam peanuts, cutlery), which I then had to pick up. Just like a toddler.
It wasn't as romantic as one could hope.

PR: Party Glitter

2010-08-13T17:08:00.003-05:00

*Laugh* I popped over to Grosgrain today before I started my blog, and darned if she didn't beat me to it! You're stealing my thunder, Kathleen Frances! Just kidding. Really, it's just one more thing we have in common.
Anyway--Unconventional Materials Challenge this week. I love this challenge, but I have to admit I felt like a party store was a little too easy. There are so many fabric substitutes there; it's not like there's no room for creativity, and some designers still had difficulty re-envisioning materials (as I would probably do, to be honest), but still, it was a little less adventurous than, say, a grocery or hardware store.
Has Casanova ever seen Project Runway before? My guess is no. "I just don't see the point." Really?
Two things I noticed about the designers in general, or at least the editing--more specific questions coming from the designers toward Tim, and a more "group support" atmosphere amongst the group. Sure, there are egos and hangups, and cattiness, but I also notice that they're readier to give each other compliments and to support designs they think are great, like everyone liking Valerie's last week, or people being so impressed with Andy's this week that they wanted to help him complete his vision. I like both of these elements--they're more specific, and add dimension to the show.
Also, laughing Tim=adorable. However, is he getting "soft"? I notice he seems more blown away by everything going on. Are the garments really that much better? I can't tell.

On to the fashions:

AJ--I wrote down, "8-year-old's party dress." I hardly ever agree with Kors, but he was right that it was a child's birthday dress. It wasn't for a woman. It also didn't look whimsical to me--it looked, as Betsey said, like too little. And blaming the model's cup size? No.
Andy--Andy was my pick this week. I wondered if he still would be if I hadn't seen the process, but there again, there are balancing factors--time issues and getting help versus doing something really artistic. Carol Hannah said, "I think it has more to do with the realization that something truly amazing, innovative and creative is coming into being. There's an honor in helping that fantastic potential not be wasted because the person needs 15 more minutes." I don't always like ambitious moves, but this one was really spicy. The interplay of textures impressed me, and I really liked the look as a whole. It had the look plus the effort.
April--I wrote down, "Very pointy--this dress is scary!" At the same time, I think a contemporary rock star might wear this structural piece to the Grammy's and be satisfied. I think April is rebuilding after week 1, and she's doing a good job making her statement.
Casanova--I needed another look at this, so I was glad the judges pulled it out. I also "responded positively" to the back, but thought the front was awful. Too busy and confusing. No.
Christopher--Ah, yellow. The fit was a little loose here, but I liked the sequinny detail to give the fabric a little extra sparkle. It was definitely wearable, but perhaps a touch too simple.
Gretchen--The girl can style, boots aside--I wonder if she will be that person who can style so well as to hide her flaws, representing the "shiny things" concept. The skirt turned out well, but the jacket seemed flat to me (though I like it better in the photos), and I wondered what it concealed of the top. I have a feeling that top was not that great. I'm going to leave her attitude out of the question for now.
Ivy--I liked the concept of Ivy's piece, though the color was a bit sedate and the top was too low. It didn't help that her look came next to Michael C's, which had the same shoulder treatment, and done better. There were other looks with similar materials that were sleeker.
Kristin--I needed another look at Kristin's dress. On the runway, it looked like it had a good shape and flow. In the still photos, it looks campier, too bright and plasticky. I do, however, think this was Kristin's best look so far.
Michael C--Very sassy. Someone compared it to Hererra, which I thought was true. It was a little busy, particularly around the middle and the top ruffle of the skirt portion, but Michael used the piecing technique and one-shoulder look to better effect than Ivy.
Michael D--The look was messy, the stringy top especially. It just seemed to be a clunker up and down.
Mondo--Someone in the comments called this "Party Warrior Barbie" which I think is the best description ever. This is a more "sedate" Mondo, and one I can get behind. While I wouldn't wear it, I thought it was kind of cute and, for me, "graspable."
Peach--Peach's garment is a more successful version of what AJ was doing, except for that top--so white, too plain (if you look at the close-up picture, you can see it's actually in a fanlike pattern, but the top seemed wholly reliant on that rather than styling and fitting it also). It didn't quite "get there" but Peach did better this week.
Sarah--Oh, Sarah. And that's exactly what I wrote. Can't we all look at Sarah's dress and think of things she could have done? Like changing the leaves somehow, manipulating them to make the skirt more than just leaves? The top is almost art deco-y in the way the leaf pieces fit together. Something similar for the bottom would have worked. It's like the dress gave up halfway down. But Sarah knew this, too, and Sarah probably could have come up with 100 ways to fix it, but it didn't happen. It's sad, because Sarah seemed a little unusual to me, in a good way.
Valerie--Valerie's look reminded me of one of the garments from the car challenge, and I can't remember which one. The dress was a bit plain, but it was sleek in a way that Ivy's wasn't. A little too daring, but smartly made.

I largely agreed with the judges this week in the results. I actually couldn't predict who they'd call out for the top three, but was right on with the bottom three.
The blogverse has already called Kors out for his "360 degree turn" comment about Valerie's styling, so I will let that rest.

A little blog love

2010-08-10T17:17:00.003-05:00

I have to admit to a little blog crush on http://grosgrainfabulous.blogspot.com/
Seriously. Go and watch her little video tutorial on how to shir fabric (like smocking). I had a "laaaaaaa!" singing moment by the time she got to the spritzing and ironing and the fabric magically...well...shirred.
Her sweet giveaways aside, she makes "frocks by Friday," does regular tutorials, and somehow manages to take photographs of all of it, even while raising a family (I gather her mum is nearby to help with the kids, which is awesome--go Kathleen's mum!). She also posts pictures of her blog followers' finished garments from the frocks by Friday, which must really give sewers a charge. It's good fun, and useful at the same time. I am amazed by the regularity and helpfulness of her blogworld.
Kathleen Frances and I resemble one another a bit, which makes it extra intriguing. She's also self-taught on the sewing machine, and admits to her own continued learning. I feel a kinship with this person, even as I admire her mad skills.
So, thanks to whomever pointed me in Grosgrain's direction--I can't even remember how I got there, which is the funny part. Someone else's blog, I'm sure. Isn't that always the way?

PR: Your Ad Here

2010-08-06T13:24:00.003-05:00

Preface: I'm completing my Project Runway writing this week with a Miss Marple episode on YouTube, with Geraldine McEwan. I like the other Jane Marples for assorted reasons, but McEwan will forever be my favorite, I think. She's adorable but steely. She's the kind of elder lady I want to be, and the way I really think Marple was meant to be--gentle and innocent-looking, but then sharp and mischievous. Every once in a while, McEwan's warm-fuzzy regard suddenly pierces. It's perfect. I don't actually remember the one I'm watching, At Bertram's Hotel, and it has about a million characters, so I apologize if I seem to trail off or make a hideous grammar error.
Now I think on it, I wonder if I should be collecting the dvds of Marples and Poirots. There are rather a lot of them, and I know for a fact I haven't seen all the Poirots, the short ones....

Anyway.
So--a Times Square billboard is the big prize this week. The needs of a billboard are really similar to the needs of a magazine cover: Bold design and color, but simple. Anything too complex will end up looking messy or cluttered. Any mistakes will be blown up and highly noticeable, even from such a height. Think of how Anthony's dress would look on a billboard--pretty striking, I'd expect. I think a lot of designers overdesigned this week, producing fussy garments rather than creating dramatic strokes.
I liked the photo shoot element--it was very instructive about designers' attitudes. Did anyone notice, though, how much trouble some of the models had with posing? They were all waiting for direction, and some of them seemed unable to produce even with direction.
I also liked seeing more of the sketches; though designs change drastically, that strikes me as an essential part of the process, and one I wish I had a talent at.
My favorite quote of the week is Tim's: "I respond positively to this." It sounds like something I'd say, and strikes me as essential Tim.
My least favorite quote is Jason's: "I'm a straight guy in a gay man's world." Excuse after excuse from this guy. He wished that judges could look past his closures. Really? You stapled a garment last week, and I use the term garment loosely. Shut up and sew already.
One further thing: How do you feel about the extended time of Project Runway? I kind of like it, but at the same time I noticed that there were thirty minutes given to the judging portion, and ten for the runway show. I felt like they rushed the photo reveal part before each model walked, and then I had to listen to too much from the judges.

Let's talk clothes:
AJ: I strayed a bit into the judges' snark when I wrote "taxi tart." A bright color is great, but the garment was ill-fitting and the model done up like a streetwalker.
Andy: The fluidity of Andy's pants was really quite fascinating. I love liquidlike pants. I liked the blouse's color, am undecided about the folding sleeve, but felt in general the blouse was a little clumsy.
April: April redeemed herself a bit for me this week. The bust area wasn't well fit, but the top of the garment was interestingly structural and I liked that color combo, though maybe not for a billboard. After last week's train wreck, this was a much needed improvement.
Casanova: I really liked Casanova's coat. The skirt was too tight, yet the whole look perhaps a little too...formal womanly? But saying that doesn't feel right, because I don't really see that as a problem. Think of how that coat would look with a hot pair of jeans. I'd like to have it.
Christopher: Something about this was discordant, perhaps because of the dark black and rather boring skirt with the flirty, flared, and duller black top. It looked mismatched.
Gretchen: Oh, Gretchen. On the one hand, Gretchen has a good model and a good eye. She seems to tailor and finish impeccably. I only just figured out this garment is blue. I guess I'm not surprised this won, because this is the kind of thing the judges like so often, but I really do not like jumpsuits, and thought this one made the hips look wide at the back. I also didn't care for the picture the judges swooned over, though the model eventually did a good job with the billboard shots. I liked the shape of the top, but would have preferred a dress with an interesting hem.
Ivy: I thought this garment was kind of hideous. It was plain and flat--almost too safe to be safe. There were enough disasters for this to slide by, but only just.
Jason: Whether the safety pin closures were intentional or not is immaterial--it was a bad idea, and this kid just cannot seem to take responsibility for his bad decisions. Plain and simple, it looked bad. "Impeccable the way it was sewn"? Gracious. And....done.
Kristin: This whole thing looks rickety and raggedy, as if scraped together. I know some designers make rich livings out of clothes that look cobbled together, but I have never seen any that I like. In my eye, this was a hot mess.
Michael C: This seemed well constructed, but also kind of blah. It reminds me of a Barbie dress circa 1988.
Michael D: I couldn't get behind Michael D. this week. Another flowy drape dress--but this time looking more like a hasty craft project. I actually have some fabric a little like that, and my project didn't turn out either.
Mondo: Still not caring for Mondo's work. That polka dot jabot. Those leggings. I liked the skirt, but all together this was a whole lotta look, and not in a good way. It seemed a little too young for the client as well. I would have been horrified if this had won.
Nicholas: I am so surprised that Nicholas got ousted. He is another with "a whole lotta look" but this was worse that Mondo's. The cape was off, the skirt too short and too tight. The blouse, though, was interesting, at least in the front. I thought Kristin's work was worse than this, and given the horrors of Jason I was surprised that the two were put on such a level by being ousted at the same time. I don't like the message there.
Peach: This was another craft project gone wrong. I thought Peach was a goner along with Jason, rather than Nicholas. While I'm not sorry they spared her, I wouldn't have blamed them if they didn't. Peach gave up on herself in this challenge. I was confused by the judges a little--they mentioned at one point that this was so matronly as to look like something a 70-year-old would wear. What? On what planet? This dress was confusing, yes, and the idea of the collar a little "matronly" but the dress itself was not. Mind your credibility, judges--don't let your confusion make you look like idiots.
Sarah: This looked a little too tacked together, and the top was misshapen. The piecing looked a little clumsy, and I don't think it would have shown up well on a billboard.
Valerie: This dress was the clear winner for me. I didn't like the loop-type construction on the butt, but I liked the vivacity of the collar and the neckline, and the dress was sporty and feminine at the same time. Admittedly, it might not have offered so many options for positions on a billboard, as Gretchen's garment did, but I thought it would be more arresting, less ambient.

Regarding Austin and Santino--Still completely worth it, still making me laugh out loud. It's sort of like watching your friends get silly, isn't it? I liked the garment they produced this week, but I sort of thought it was going to be long, didn't you? I was confused when it ended up being short.
I'm still a little on the fence about who Austin reminds me of, but I did have a sudden inspiration: Mr. Humphries.

PR: Fashion Crimes' Order of Magnitude

2010-07-30T15:22:00.002-05:00

Imagine you're the judge in two cases of burglary. In one, the thief was dressed up as the Hamburglar, and made off with 1000 bucks from the bank. In the other, the burglar was dressed like an average man, and made off with 1000 bucks from the bank. Whom do you punish more harshly?
It's a trick question, of course. The way the crime was carried out doesn't matter--the actual damage done is equal. Would you give a lesser penalty to the Hamburglar man because he was zany, and you think he might be a fun guy out on the streets? No. He's a criminal, and all must be treated equally by the law.
It doesn't work that way in reality TV, of course, and I'll bet some of you spotted in this week's Project Runway judging comments a definite acknowledgment of "voting for TV"--keeping people on just for personality, even if their fashion crimes were far more egregious than those of someone who was auf'd. This is why McKell was sent home, and Jason and Casanova were kept, even though their fashion crimes were more unforgivable than hers (in my own opinion, naturally.)

I did do a little homework pre-show, and checked out the portfolios on mylifetime's PR website. Portfolios I liked: Gretchen, Ivy. Portfolios I didn't like: Casanova, Mondo. Then, as the show began, I could see personalities and aesthetics emerging, many that I instantly responded to, positively and negatively. Ivy's conceit was obvious, for instance (though of course they were setting up a fall for her in the editing). I also wondered if Casanova might actually be a bit of an idiot--when Project Runway tells you to take a garment out of your bag right before a challenge, wouldn't you assume it's going to be ripped up? Why choose D & G pants? Was he going to be okay with destroying them himself?

We see some changes in the workspace. I'm not sure how I feel about the Touchpads. I was glad to see some designers eschewing them; did anyone notice that the sketches some were doing on the Touchpads seemed, I don't know, soulless? They weren't as human, personable, or beautiful, and in fact struck me as generic. I'm all for advances in technology, but I'm not sure if this is really going to be a good value for some designers. I'm also curious as to how the Mood annex works, and how it was set up. If anyone has seen any discussion of this anywhere, please let me know.

Beyond this, it's business as usual.
AJ--80s goth and tinsel. That's not a bad thing, it just didn't strike me as all that special. Safely wearable, however.
Andy--The shoulders of Andy's garment reminded me of a PhD graduation gown. In fact, the whole cape was like "graduates gone wild." The back of the top was a nice surprise, though.
April--Gracious. Messy in a distracting, Mad Max way. Sometimes deconstructed is just destroyed. While I hated hearing so many of them playing the time card, I am actually interested to see if April is too much into one thing or if she has a bag of tricks ready.
Casanova--Speaking of disaster. This is my WTF dress of the week. It has a beachy quality to it, but when he said it wasn't vulgar, I did a double take. Really? But if you look in his portfolio, you'll see this is kind of par for hiscourse. Funny story--once, my dance friends and I wore Renaissanceish dresses, and M. had one with a jewel at the end of a V bodice. We called it the "pubic zirconia." And, looking at the photo of Casanova's garment, I can't help thinking the same thing. Anyway. I was intrigued with the translations going on with Nina Garcia. That was nice, I thought--but then Casanova's response was so insipid it seemed like he still didn't understand. How bad is his English really, I wonder?
Christopher--I'm not a big fan of halter dresses, which are severely overexposed right now, but I also thought the fabric here looked like drapes. I really didn't care for this look.
Gretchen--I was a little surprised that Gretchen won. I thought her top was a touch too blousy, and the neckline a bit dull, but at the same time I admired the drape and movement of the dress and I liked her little sleeve choice. Someone in the comments of Rate the Runway identified it as sophisticated, and that it was; I think it ultimately won for polish. I was actually glad to see a garment like this win--not short or tawdry, no cleavage, but still feminine.
Ivy--I liked Ivy's blouse; it was too short, yes, and not quite the right shape, but I completely disagreed with Kors' comment about it looking mangled. I enjoyed the structure of those ruffles. The pants though. I never did see the original pants, but I do concur that the pants were not fashion-forward.
Jason--Jason should have gone home. I didn't have a WTF moment with his dress because I could see where he was going from the get-go, and ultimately it just looked like a trash bag. No No NO. I totally agreed with the judges about this garment, but was astounded that they didn't find this criminal enough to oust. And he wasn't even that interesting. I am completely baffled, and I cry foul.
Kristin--I had a hard time seeing Kristin's garment, because her model's walk was crazy. But now, looking at the picture, I still don't understand it. Seriously. Someone explain this garment to me.
McKell--Poor McKell. I think she got kind of blindsided by the judges. When I first saw this garment, I thought it had a cute bottom half, and contrary to her opinion, I thought a fuller skirt was better for so short a garment. When I got a better look at it, I didn't like the denim top, finding the fabric to be cheap- and retro-looking (which was exacerbated by the hair). I thought Heidi overplayed it, though--the dress was not butt-ugly, and I can't really call this a fashion crime. Nor, it seems, can the commenters, and Tim. No one will ever be able to justify the judges' decision to me.
Michael C--Boring is the only thing I wrote on my notes. The pink blousy top and pleather skirt actually seemed kind of tarty to me.
Michael D--If you know anything about me at all, you can probably guess that I liked this satiny, blousy wrap dress in earthy shades. This was actually my favorite garment, though it wasn't as sophisticated as Gretchen's. It looked super comfy, and I would totally wear that.
Mondo--I hated this garment. I can't exactly explain why, and I didn't see what he originally had to work with, but in generaly I just don't like Mondo's aesthetic. It's garish and actually makes me feel unhappy to look at it.
Nicholas--I didn't realize until the judging commenced that the top of the gown was ribbing. That's when I said, "Oh dear." The shape of the gown had glamour, but the whole thing didn't move well and I had a flashback to someone's gown last season. The fit of the bodice was not well-constructed, and it looked a bit like he'd used heavy home decor fabric instead of occasional wear taffeta or whatever.
Peach--I thought this garment was kind of cute and simple, though I also thought there was too much going on with that knot in the back. I am a little concerned about Peach's fabric choices; I can see her going a little too chintzy. Her portfolio shows many cute little dresses, and I also wonder about her range. Her work looks a little homesewn (though since I'm a homesewer, I have a hard time using that as an epithet).
Sarah--I wrote down, "Garage couture." Exactly like an America's Next Top Model mechanic's outfit. Where would a real person wear this? It looked well constructed (and the collar looked like brocade, which I support), but it didn't look like a real person's garment. At the same time, I'm not sure that's an important consideration.
Valerie--I noticed fit issues with Valerie's outfit. It was also garish and rumpled.

As I said, poor McKell. Her dress was not a winner, but I was glad to hear Tim tacitly calling out the judges for their bad decision (unfortunately, mylifetime seems to have gone with video of Tim's critiques rather than having him blog--certainly hope they reconsider that, since his reaction to the judging is always interesting). I did wonder, if Casanova had been ousted, would it not have been his worst day ever, getting cut, and losing his expensive pants? But then, I also thought, anyone who spends over a thousand bucks on pants does NOT need money from PR to make a fashion line (a sentiment echoed by Nick Verreos--I swear I wrote it down first!). That's not a good investment for them. One final note, from Laura Bennett's blog: "Styling is the new sewing."

And while we're at it, let's talk about Austin and Santino--I hope you looked in your TV Guides and decided to DVR this, or stuck around to watch it. This is the type of realilty show I usually hate, except that it's about sewing, and it's more funny than dramatic. This episode was hilarious and involved a mercantile. How can you not love it? The mom's hair alone was worth the whole half hour. Oh, Texas.
Quick--without thinking, tell me who Austin Scarlett reminds me of. Especially with his precious hand gestures at the beginning. I can't figure it out.
I love Santino's laugh, and I have to say he looks well--not so gaunt as he once did.
The family seemed really accepting of the designers, as flamboyant as they are. It was nice to see Austin and Santino being so gracious. The show had a feel-good vibe that I appreciate. Fashionwise, I liked Austin's starter look better; his innovation of the lace combind with the straps was intriguing, and I'd have loved to see that finished look. For Santino's gingham look, well, the top looked messy, too unfinished, and the bottom a bit too poofy. That being said, the girl looked happy, and the dress was event-appropriate. Maybe a little too gimmicky? But appropriate.
I am definitely looking forward to this show, almost more than PR itself. I hope they can keep it up.

Home/Fabric/Spree

2010-07-27T16:24:00.004-05:00

It's been a busy couple of days in Avaciousland.

I went home to spend a few days with my folks and go to a wedding. I traveled late at night Thursday, trying to get through a gauntlet of storms. We'd already had tornado sirens in BG, and contrary to usual form, I actually went to watch the clouds, and I distinctly saw some rotation. There was no thunder or lightning, just what my sister compares to The Neverending Story's The Nothing. Swirling black clouds. By the time I left town for Michigan, it had quieted down, and most of my trip was very peaceful in the dark.

At home, I made a few brief shopping trips and hung out with my folks, met the nice student who is working on home repair with my dad, had quite a chat with our neighbor, and sunbathed. I rode in my dad's new aerial lift, and my parents and I watched two railway-related films (through coincidence, not intention) and Sunday's Poirot, which we'd actually all seen before.

On Saturday, we went to my cousin Jim's wedding; it was a nice ceremony, not very long, and then the reception was at the University Club on campus at MSU. We sat at a table with a family with four children, and enjoyed their experience of the party. I made friends with the boy who sat next to me, and he presented me with two of his Silly Bandz, which actually complemented my dress, though I'm sure if I'd told him that he would have taken them right back. Their daughter and I share a first name, so we were instant friends, and there was also a set of twins. The wedding colors were white and red with pink accents, and, best of all, I could eat the dinner--salad, chicken, potatoes, and rolls, in a serving size that allowed one to leave room for cake. The bride and groom were very happy.

I got back in to BG on Monday, and made a decision. I'm a little impulsive sometimes about buying things, but at least this one will help me (maybe): Heretofore, my fabrics have been in boxes, baskets, and even plastic bags. The baskets have been in the closet, which seemed like a good place until I realized I can't see the fabrics, and the baskets are hard to pull out, thus I hardly ever see what I have. Meanwhile, they'd run out of space anyway, and other items pile up around the apartment. So, I bought some Cubeicals shelving units and plan to put the fabric in them, and put a nice drape over the front. This unit will go right out in the apartment, so I can see my fabric whenever I want. The other stuff that has been piling up, but that I don't need to see often, will go in the closet.

The problem with this excellent plan became evident when I pulled out the bottom basket, which is full of fabrics I've used before and smaller scraps. Some of the fabrics I've used I still have a substantial amount of, and some are just little scraps. I'm having to evaluate my system of keeping fabric scraps, and trying to decide what on earth I'd use them for. Some have prints I'm not sure I'd use again. Yet, if it's a silky fabric, it might be nice as a lining for a bag or something. I'm trying to find ways to use up fabric scraps, because it's really hard for me to throw away fabric.

Some fabrics I look at and wonder why I even bought them. One in particular I did actually make a shirt out of, which I wore once and can't bring myself to wear again. As I was looking at it, though, I thought it might be interesting to challenge myself to try to make something sculptural out of it--it's a rather boring and cheap-looking gray knit. I have some ideas about a pencil skirt with horizontally pleated panels.

Anyway, there is fabric absolutely strewn all over the floor in my apartment, waiting to be divided into stacks and refolded to be in uniform chunks. This is going to be a fairly big undertaking, and is keeping me from getting other things done, like reading the giant numbers of books I have strewn about the other apartment! Or actually doing sewing projects.

The funniest part about the trip out to Target to get the shelving was that there is a new TJ Maxx right next to the Target in Rossford. Oops. I stopped in there first and came out with two pairs of shoes and an interesting shawl collar cardigan, the collar of which is actually stand-up pleats that sort of curve to the neck's shape. I tried it on and even with a T-shirt and jeans it looked nice, but it will be great for professional clothes. Then, in Target, I wandered around and picked up a bunch of other bits and pieces. Honestly. Why do I shop so much? What is happening to me?

Slow it down, summer.

2010-07-20T15:52:00.002-05:00

As much as I enjoy having the Naiad frock as the first thing you see, I can't leave it there forever.

Couple of things: Ladies and gents, start your fashionable engines. Project Runway starts on Lifetime on July 29 at 9 pm. I can't wait to see what this season's contestants will bring to the table. I hope they aren't as snarky or self-centered as this season's Top Cheftestants. And that goes for the judges, too. Last season's favoring of sound byte insults over constructive and thoughtful critique was a total drag. I want to see clothes, people.

If you're like me, your bosom size has gone up and down over your lifetime, and you may also, like me, have some poor bra choices in your past, bras you never wear and probably never will. I was looking up things to do with gently used or unused bras, and came upon this website: Bra Recyclers. There's a form you have to fill out, but you can ship them any of your clean bras that are in good condition. Consider this a plug to search through your bras and see if there are any a lady who can't afford proper support, or even fun support, might enjoy. Or, if you're feeling the need to give at a bigger level, consider hosting a bra drive. I was also thinking it might be fun to go to one of Victoria's Secrets big semi-annual sales and search through the clearance bins for bras to send. Maybe with a bunch of friends, where everyone picks three bras to send.

Finally, remember my red leather shoes? The awesome ones? Today I bought a trunk that is the same color leather. I've been needing a trunk for a while, to store presents that I buy fairly far in advance. Hobby Lobby always has cool trunks, and as I traipsed through the store, I saw 50 % off signs in that aisle. My eye was immediately captured by the red leather trunk, which I think is new--it wasn't there last week. At the checkout, the girl (who was very sweet) tried to tell me that the trunk, as a furniture item, was 30 % off. They were indeed 30 % off last week, but the blaring red signs said 50 % off decorative storage, and they were in the trunk aisle, which contains nothing BUT trunks. The signs didn't differentiate between "decor" and "furniture." I tried to explain to her, as gently as I could, that this was misleading, and suggested they move the signs, if they don't apply to anything in the aisle, though I acknowledged that I'd buy the trunk regardless because it is awesome. As I hauled the thing into my car I looked at my receipt and saw she'd given me the 50 % off.
I felt a little bad, like I'd bullied her, and I honestly would have bought the trunk full price. I'd tried to be polite about it, and explain why I was convinced they were half off. But I guess that's passive aggressive bullying. Anyway, I love Hobby Lobby, always finding something fun in there, and I'm not sorry I argued about it. I'm still not sure who was right. For all I know, she was mistaken. Regardless, the trunk is delightful.

In the rest of my world, I'm sewing a dress and knitting a sweater, and trying to finish up the seaQuest dvds by tomorrow, when they're due back. I'm not going to be able to finish a book that is due, and I don't think I can renew it. I've just overbooked my leisure activities in an effort to keep busy, even while I have a bunch of ideas in my head I have no time to work through. I just don't seem to be very good at planning my life right now!

The Naiad Frock Grosgrain Giveaway

2010-07-12T14:29:00.002-05:00

The Naiad Frock Grosgrain Giveaway

I want this!
I secretly hope it's so unusual that not as many people will post links and I have a better shot of winning!

Morass

2010-07-06T14:13:00.004-05:00

I wanted to take a few minutes to air a view that is unfashionable but of deep concern to me. Feel free to skip.
Tom Colicchio, in an interview on CNN about hunger, said this:
"There's a school of thought, this was about fifteen years ago, where kids are the clients coming into the school lunchroom, so let's make this look like a fast food line. That's what they tried to mimic and that's what the kids get. My feeling is yeah, the kids want that, but my seventeen year old will sit in front of the X-Box and not take a shower if I let him. We're adults. We're the ones who should teach the kids what's good to eat. "
This struck me because it is exactly how I feel about a lot of things concerning young people. Food, yes, but also student behavior and education.
In a way, I can compare what Colicchio said to my feelings on underage drinking. I hate, hate, hate it when parents say to their teens, "I don't want you to drink, but I know you'll do it anyway, so...be careful." Parents don't want to be caught out being permissive, but that's exactly what they're doing. They are conveying that they don't really care about the law and they don't actually care if their kids drink. I'd rather my message be clear and unequivocal for my kids: Don't do it. If they disobey me, it's a problem. These parents are making it so the kids can't actually disobey them no matter what they do.
But what really gets me is how the attitude conveyed above reaches our educational system. For instance, universities now are treating students like clients also, and trying to give them bells and whistles because it's what they want. Schools are adopting for themselves a permissive parenting style.
Sure, students are adults, and they deserve SOME of the privileges normally accorded to adults. But the law also views them as restricted adults, adults who do not in fact have ALL the rights and responsibilities of our culture. No drinking, no renting cars, etc. That means that they are still adults that are being nurtured by people with more experience of the world. It's our job to mentor these brand-new adults, and continue to give them discipline and limits as well as benefits and goals.
Colicchio puts his finger on what is beginning to bother me about education, not just at the college level but at all levels. We're trying to cram in all this new gadgetry and trying to make our lessons match the expectations of kids raised on World of Warcraft and reality TV. In essense, we're bringing our teaching to their attention spans, rather than the other way around. Whether it fits our personal teaching style or not, whether it suits the lesson material or not, I have been getting the message, albeit subtly, that kids, our clients, have to have their demands met.
Here's the thing: I don't believe all of this is best for the students. I see some of the changes being made, and I don't agree that all of them are wise. We're giving away our responsibility of determining, as educators, what is best. And when we give that away, we're not going to be able to get it back so easily; we'll lose our credibility to say, "No, that runs counter to what I know will help my students." We're also making the (documented) problems worse by refusing to address them and reverse them.
If students are coming into a university situation with a poor attention span and inability to focus on academic material, it seems wrong to me to sex up my teaching and make it more like this supposed learning style, as opposed to helping this student broaden his spectrum of learning and find the ability to learn in more than one way, in addition to correcting his attention span. I do believe that students learn in different ways, and that we should teach in a variety of methods to bring everybody in. But I also believe that some of the "styles" we are seeing now are actually disabilities, and we should be working to bring students up to par as learners, not just as information holders.
Universities right now are bending over backward to create new initiatives and special programs to bring in the student dollars. I understand the need to make money. I also admire many of these programs--learning communities, for instance. But I also perceive that these initiatives are beginning to crowd out the actual business of learning. If everything is special, nothing is. For now, the majority of classes are still taking place in a simple classroom with pen and paper work, lecturing combined with interaction, and perhaps a computer or two. But that's not the monetary emphasis any longer. Students come in expecting something much different, and they aren't prepared for the prosaic reality--a reality, I might add, that gets results. On the other side of that coin, student expectations are leading to this simpler form of classwork becoming more and more disrespected and replaced by the aforementioned bells and whistles. In effect, we're letting students determine what they should learn and how, rather than taking command as educated adults and researchers and determining that ourselves.
I will be the first to acknowledge that students-as-clients isn't all bad. I also recognize the drift of the economy that has put many schools in market-based binds. It's the trend that alarms me more than anything--that curious something-in-the-air that suggests a direction I can't get behind. The United States continues to fall further behind in education, despite spending more and more per student. It seems logical to me to wonder if we are forgetting about the educatioon part of education. It also makes me wonder if we are keeping students from feeling gratitude that they are even able to get educated at all, but that, the study of entitlement, is a whole other entry.
And I may be wrong; perhaps things will turn out for the best. But right now, I feel like we are letting students tell us our jobs, and that is wrong wrong wrong. Just as the parents are the adults who should be determing what goes in school lunches, so are teachers the adults with the expertise to determine how students should be shaped and how they should learn. It isn't the students' fault. We've given them that power. I think it's time we stop being "permissive educators" and take it back.

All according to (another) plan

2010-07-01T12:43:00.003-05:00

I do have one more Twilight entry I want to do, but I've been doing a whole host of other things and haven't had time to get to it.

I'm the type of person who functions best when interested in a variety of somethings all at once. Maybe even mildly obsessed by those things. This is why I do so badly on vacation, and why my solo trips tend to involve a breakneck pace, like three major museums or hotspots in a day. It's not that I can't be quiet, but that my mind prefers to be seriously engaged while I am quiet, even if that isn't very restful. Finally, FINALLY, I got there in the last couple of days. So much so, though, that my well laid-out yesterday did not go at all like I thought it would.

I meant to go to Kroger, Goodwill, home, Ben Franklin, the post office, the library, the farmer's market, possibly Video Spectrum, and home yesterday. I ended up spending more time at Goodwill than I meant to. Then, my trip to Ben Franklin (where I went to buy a length of ribbon and an envelope) ended up in an hour's cavalcade, where I also bought eight skeins of yarn, knitting patterns, and more ribbon. By this time I was considerably laden down, so after my stop at the post office, I went to the farmer's market and the video store, had to go home to drop stuff off, and didn't get to the library until 6. It was a happy mess.

I had to laugh at myself because I'd arranged my carry bags to suit the order of the day, and ended up carrying heavy things I didn't need all day. Oh, well. What mattered more was that I was enjoying the day and keeping busy with good tasks. So what if I bought an apron and a cookie at the market instead of vegetables? So what if I walked out of the library with five books instead of the two I went in for? So what if I didn't actually watch the dvd I rented as I was finishing up my new dress, instead taking in some of my regular TV shows? It was a good day.

The dress I finished, as pictured, is one I'll really enjoy if I can find places to wear it. It is not as shiny as pictured, and neither am I. I had to take, like, 24 pictures with the timer to even come up with this one. I don't photograph well at midnight in my little apartment. My sister is much better at getting good fashion shots of herself.

I wish I could show you what the yarn I got looks like; it's sort of a peachy pink color, very delicate, and I think I found a sweater pattern that will work. I'm not convinced I understand the pattern, and there's part of it I want to change, but I have been planning this project for a while and was awaiting the right yarn and pattern. I'm a slow and unskilled knitter, but I do love yarn much the way I love fabric. If I like it, I'll buy it, regardless of any planned purpose.

I'm also doing quite a bit of research for a few other projects, and so things have been a little frenetic. Just the way I like 'em. Even so, I think I might devote much of this weekend to reading books in my sky chair, if it's not too hot. I'm a little overboard on books, so it seems like I should catch up a bit. I finally started Son of a Witch, for instance, the sequel to Wicked. I've had it since it came out...when I saw that there was a third part at the bookstore, I bought it and realized how far behind I am on Gregory Maguire. I also have a Dick Francis, a Miss Marple, the most recent David Sedaris, the herbal PDR, and three books on writing mysteries. And a Charlaine Harris belonging to my mother. And lots of other books I want to read. If you need me, I'll be with a cup of tea in some nook.

Third Floor:Bridal.

2010-06-14T14:19:00.002-05:00

I am officially a little obsessed with this website.
I think I've mentioned this before, but I love the show Say Yes to the Dress. I also love looking at wedding dresses online. I also, at very random times, get great ideas for wedding favors or decorations. It's not at the point where I think wedding planning is my calling, and it's not to the point where, like so many ladies, I am planning my own wedding before I even have a boyfriend.
I just like looking at wedding stuff. The wedding industry, I think, is to some extent a racket--the various stores can charge what they like and do what they like and make mistakes and you have to deal with it because you're getting married. Yet there are a lot of great wedding businesses out there, and a lot of opportunities for DIYers. I find what people do creatively to be fascinating. I don't watch Bridezillas, and I don't watch Platinum Weddings--those aren't the kind of attitudes I want to enjoy. But I have a really soft place in my heart for independent, unique, and...loving wedding creation.
Take my sister's for instance--she made her dress, had a string quartet, and gave everyone chocolates from one of her husband's business associates as the favor. The details in their event spoke of what they are like as people, what their tastes are on an everyday basis--and those tastes are, of course, tasteful.
That's what this site, Ruffled, seems to celebrate. I love the small details that people come up with to make their events memorable, and I like the feelings of inspiration that gives me, even if I don't have an event myself.
Also, if I must be honest...I like how girly it makes me feel!

Today's Huh? Moment.

2010-05-31T14:21:00.002-05:00

From CNN's article on energizing:
"9. To find the juice to de-clutter your surroundings: Picture a tidy space
Clutter is a great big drag on your energy -- and not just because of all the stuff taking up space. "So much of what ends up as clutter are tasks that we haven't finished or obligations we haven't been able to meet," says professional organizer Emily Wilska, founder of San Francisco--based The Organized Life. "Who wants to be in a space where there are constant reminders of things you should be doing or aspiring to?"
Wilska suggests mind-mapping to get motivated: Clip pictures from magazines and write down snippets or words that describe your goal -- "I want an organized living room so I can invite my girlfriends over for our book club." Then post them on the fridge, the bathroom mirror, or on your computer desktop as a reminder of where you're headed."

Um. Did this not just contradict itself completely?
Nothing will remind me faster that there are things I should be doing or aspiring to than pictures from a magazine of perfect rooms, with "goals" written on them. Who indeed wants to be in a space with constant reminders strewn about, especially if they are unrealistic reminders designed to nag? I know that I can learn to make lace from my lace bobbin kit sitting by my couch. I know that I can't have an immaculate living room with pretentious furniture and knick-knacks with no personality--and I wouldn't want to.
I admit I am a person with clutter. Lots of it. I have always lived in small spaces--small, boxlike bedroom, including storage of things that aren't mine; single dorm room with community bathroom across the hall; efficiency apartment. I also have a lot of stuff; I have a lot of clothes, but it also seems like I have more than I do because my closet is miniscule. When things are stressful, I have trouble keeping my spaces tidy, and I only really notice this when people come to visit.
I like my clutter. I like hidden storage, and I like for things to have a place, but I don't mind when my books aren't lined up straight, or when I have clothes to put away. Recently I've found that I like the look of a (halfassedly) made bed, even if I am not that keen on sleeping with my sheets and blankets that way, but that is one of few concessions to tidiness. I would like more space, but I'm not going crazy in my small, cluttered space with projects all over.
It's my stuff. I like it where it is.

I love Sofft

2010-05-26T15:31:00.004-05:00

I interrupt this Twilight discussion to bring you my new shoe purchase.

I've mentioned before that I love Sofft, having fallen head over heels (though fortunately not literally) over my red T-straps. I noticed Dillard's had a few pairs of Soffts out on its 70 % off racks, and went searching in my size. Sure enough.

I did not hesitate. Not one second. I dropped my bags, untied my sandals, and made sure they fit, and then bought them. What a steal! They are black, as you can see, with a floral design stamped in the sides. They look best with jeans, though I am currently wearing them, as a test drive, with a long black skirt. I don't usually wear clogs because I turn my ankles in them (as I do with wedges, but not normal high heels), but these have a semi-normal heel, which makes all the difference. Hearts.

I had quite a shopping day Tuesday at Franklin Park. Having just gotten out my summer wardrobe, I was well aware that I didn't need more clothes. I unconsciously decided instead to look for accessories, which I hardly ever do. My sister is much better at that than I, and more discerning. But along the way, I picked up a cute clutch, some rings and a bracelet, and some other odds and ends. It was a smashing success. And these days, you can bring beverages into stores, so I wandered around with a cup of chai. Decadence.

I also had a weird moment as I was leaving Dillard's. I NEVER pay attention to the designer sections in department stores. I can't afford the stuff, even if it is excellent quality. But the Antonio Melani section is now right near the restroom, and my attention was arrested by this dress and this one. I'm not sure why--they seemed fun, and were a beautiful pale gold color. Ladylike and unobtrusively glamorous. I managed to escape before any salespeople found me and tried to influence me, because it wouldn't have taken much. Sometimes I tell myself, "I could make that," even if it isn't true!

Twilight, pt. 2

2010-05-20T15:48:00.000-05:00

On a similar note to the partnering similarities, I was also struck by the sexual tension of closeness in Twilight. Sexual tension in itself is alluring; we often bemoan that moment in our favorite novels and TV shows when that thread between our favorite characters is suddenly and irrevocably loose, after it has been taut for aching ages.

But in Twilight, that taut thread isn’t just a smoldering substory, it’s almost the entire point. (In fact, this cause for Twilight’s success makes me tentative about reading the other stories, because I’ve read spoilers and plots that indicate it’s not such a theme.) This is about physicality, and it’s one for those with strong empathy.

Most of Twilight (as it seemed to me while I listened) took place in that tiny space between barely touching and touching, that breathless gap. In fact, fixating so closely on breath is in itself a good sensory trigger, since any indication of airlessness is immediately felt—you know how when you think about breathing you suddenly feel like you can’t breathe enough? That is Twilight. Consider all the mentions of smell, for instance, or forgetting to breathe. While a lot of the descriptions of smell were clunky, they at least maintain the connection to air, and the reader’s sensory memory of it.

Physical nearness, not quite touching, but close enough to raise hairs, plays a bigger role. A reader is better able to “feel” this than actual touching in a story. Touching is very specific to individuals, and harder to feel through empathy. We may not have been touched in the same way; we may not be able to relate to the touch being experienced, the textures and pressure of it. But if the characters in a story are NOT touching it’s easy to feel because, after all, the reader isn’t being touched either. It’s much easier to imagine almost being touched. It works for the same reason suspense in a horror film does—we are more afraid when the character can’t see the monster yet, because if there is an ax murderer near us, we can’t see him either. It’s the pressure of absence that builds up. I am in the camp that loves the torture of almost-there almost as much—and sometimes more—than the there.

Actually, I think this is part of the reason why the book appeals so much to women in my age group. Not many of us take the time to almost touch anymore with our significant others. We don’t take the time to torture each other with not touching or barely touching, to let our breath be taken away by it for ages. Edward running his nose along Bella’s jawline is particularly evocative to us because we can remember that painfully delicious moment when someone did that to us, and many of us miss it, at least at that extreme, extended level. The idea of women needing more foreplay than men is an old joke, but it is not so much about foreplay here as the enjoyment of the physical responses we get out of torturous nearness. It’s drawing out the “turning on” and making it the focus, making it never stop.

As I listened to the audio book, I found myself shaking my head and chuckling out loud at some of the descriptions (the reasons for which I’ll explain later). Yet I can’t deny I had a physical response to Twilight. I have a very strong empathetic memory, and as I mentioned I’m partial to the torture of touch and almost-touch. In that regard, at least, Twilight worked on me!

Twilight, pt. 1

2010-05-17T14:31:00.002-05:00

As the school year ended, it was time to get back into the sewing room, which meant I needed an audio book. It so happened that I discovered Twilight on the shelf at the local library; I hadn’t read it yet, and was meaning to, so it seemed like an obvious fit. Half of my friends are obsessed with Twilight, and another quarter of them have read it, so I’m really the last to the table here, I know. I prefer that, in some ways, since enough time has passed that their impressions have faded out of my memory.

In our 1100/1110 courses, we teach a “Searching for Causes” essay—trying to uncover the best cause of a trend or phenomenon. One of my friends actually teaches the essay through the lens of Twilight’s popularity. The students don’t always believe that this is a real process people go through, but I had to laugh as I was listening to this book and, in my head, uncovering reasons that people are obsessed with this book, especially women of my age bracket.

Let me say that I’m not obsessed with it; I enjoyed the experience, and I will likely pursue the other audio books when they’re available (they’re all checked out at present). Still, I am not sure if I will see the movie or not, and I don’t feel compelled to buy anything. I’m not caught up in it as I was with, say, Harry Potter. At the same time, I can understand the allure from many perspectives, and as I said, I found enjoyment. I also experienced several other things at the same time this was going on that dovetailed with my Twilight foray. So, these next few blog entries are my reflections on Twilight.

As I was patchworking turtles together, examining my reactions to the book in progress, I realized that part of the attraction is the same reason why I like dance partnering.

No—really. I’ve written about this before. Partnering is the biggest demonstration of trust that I’ve experienced to date, requiring as it does being lifted into the air, perhaps tossed, perhaps flipped upside down. There is weight sharing and touching, often in places that otherwise would be completely inappropriate. It’s a fantasy, a confection. You aren’t really in love with your dance partner (probably), but you frequently pretend you are, and you are certainly in love with being picked up, embraced, touched, made to feel precious, airy, and even protected (those arms, after all, often the only thing that keeps your head from smashing into the floor). Of course, the reality is that partnering is difficult, requiring intense strength, control, and balance, and it isn’t as romantic in its beginning stages. But once everything is smoothed out, the fantasy is there.

I was reflecting on this recently while I was watching my favorite dance piece probably ever. Jiri Kylian’s piece Petit Mort is perfect: Simple in costume and staging, complex in musicality and arrangement of the body. When I see it, I stop what I am doing and stare. He uses the piano music to its best effect, eking out every nuance. And it is romantic. Title notwithstanding, the partnering in this piece is silky and sensuous. It is everything partnering should be; it also gives the man body positioning just as beautiful as the woman’s, which is rare. Usually in romantic ballets, the man is a set piece. Not so in Kylian’s work. He cradles and supports, but also makes his own body into an instrument of action and thus the bodies are a shape together, incalmo, as the Italian glassmakers say.

The shapes and the touching of Petit Mort were present in my mind as I listened to Twilight. In both, there is an evocation of closeness and breath that makes me sigh out of instinct. I am not saying that they are of equal quality—Petit Mort is genius and Twilight is merely entertaining. But the fantasy of Twlight is, after all, two bodies impelled through space, each compelling the other, just as the fantasy with Petit Mort is being a partner in that intricate rendering of sexuality through dance, being lifted physically and spiritually, and made utterly precious.

The Oh Dear Frock Grosgrain Giveaway

2010-05-10T13:49:00.001-05:00

The Oh Dear Frock Grosgrain Giveaway
Cuteness! I got on to this blog via another friend, and I love popping in to see what frocks are appearing. I also love that they are identified as frocks!

2010-05-05T13:02:00.003-05:00

You ever have one of those experiences where you've been thinking deeply about something for a while, and have come to a realization, and then you read that very same realization someplace else?

From CNN: "Consider a choice you have to make -- anything from which movie to see to which house to buy. Instead of weighing pros and cons intellectually, notice your physical response to each option. Pay attention to when your body tenses or relaxes."

I've been feeling a huge sense of dissatisfaction lately. I don't know how much of this is chemical and how much mental...how much health-related and how much life-related, in other words. But I have been trying to think about what would make it better, what direction I should go in. I've noticed that, while many ideas have flitted through my brain, nothing sounds good or right. I don't want to do anything somehow. I haven't hit on the right idea. And I can tell, I realized, because I get a feeling of "no" in the pit of my stomach, a sort of revolt, whenever an idea comes up, no matter how great it looks on the surface. I know part of it is just exhaustion and burn-out, but not all.

For instance, I was considering doing an online library studies masters. I was doing research in the programs available online, and I just felt depressed about it. I would love to work in a library, amidst the books I love, but doing so via one of these programs is just not striking me correctly. I don't know why. It seems like such a no-brainer. But my gut says no.

So, when I read that on CNN today, I had to laugh, because as much as I'm a pro-con lister, I have been focusing on my intuition lately to try to solve this problem. Consider my mind read.

PR: In which I was fully prepared to say "NO NO NO" and didn't have to.

2010-04-23T11:25:00.002-05:00

First, from Tim's blog, I learned, "This is the last season in which Bryant Park will be center stage for New York Fashion Week. In spite of the fact that Bryant Park has been responsible for branding New York as "the Fashion Capital of the World," the New York City Parks Commissioner wants us OUT. His office maintains that Bryant Park is a public space, yet Fashion Week is an "invitation only" (i.e., private) event." Probably, most people knew this already, but I didn't, since I don't pay that much attention. Anyway, an interesting change, no? Evidently, Lincoln Center is the new site.

Now, throughout this whole show, I kept thinking "Don't let Emilio win." I am not usually like that; even when I don't care for a designer, and might feel less inclined to want him to win (like Siriano), I don't actively hate on him. This year was different. I'm just that done with him. I've liked some of his designs this season, but I'm just done with his arrogance. Even so, his collection was also my least favorite of the three, without the lenses of bias. And, unexpectedly, my favorite of the three was Mila. Let's see how it all shook out, shall we?

Mila
Top three looks:
Knit stripey dress--I love. I'd totally wear this. Very rocker chic but not in a scary way. It looks kind of cozy.
White tee with sweater--Some may call it plain, mundane, or boring, but the fact of the matter is I'd wear it. I love that sweater. It's very me.
Shiny dress--I know people disagree with me, but I really liked this dress on the runway. It's weird, but somehow the fishscalelike material really appeals to me. It's almost an updated flapper garment.
Bottom three looks:
"Round" coat--the first look out...I call it round because its silhouette is very round. I wasn't that interested in this garment, and it made me worry about the direction of her collection, temporarily.
Ripply blouson with short pants--The shorts were really not attractive to my eye. The blouson wasn't bad, actually, but it also wasn't that eye-catching.
Striped tunic with white tights--I don't hate this look; I didn't hate any looks, but the white tights here with the black boots really threw me off, and the tunic looked a touch sloppy.

General observations: I acknowledge that Mila didn't put out anything very surprising. You know what, though? I'm okay with that. Leggings aside, I actually liked the way she updated her style for this runway show, and her pieces were impeccable and wearable, with a wry edge to them. I had a hard time coming up with pieces I genuinely disliked in this collection, and ended up picking mostly ones that I was meh about. Her clothes looked comfortable, and I responded to this style as being the closest to my own, when I'm feeling a little badass. I congratulate Mila on finding some youth at last.

Seth Aaron
Top three looks:
Red dress with the leather trim--I was interested in the shape of the dress, but I hated the leggings. I'm pretty anti-leggings. I think I've mentioned that. But the dress was fun to look at.
Black and white striped dress--I loved the shape of this dress, and the party flavor. I would wear this immediately.
Yellow tartan dress/coat--This look was bold and surprising in a good way. I could never wear this color, but I liked the combination of a modern style with a tartan.
Bottom three looks:
Black "thorny" dress--To me, this looked like trash bags. In the upclose pictures, you can see that all those folds were lined in red tartan. But why? You couldn't see any of that. Up top, the bodice started doing something interesting, but I didn't care for it from the bust down.
Trench coat with tartan-striped leggings--Yuck. This was probably my least favorite look of SA's, and one of the least favorite overall. I can't bear those leggings. They kind of reminded me of Jeffrey Sebelia's taste.
Purple bunchy dress-- Another big miss. Love the color, hate the shape and the movement, or lack thereof.
General observations: I concurred with the judges that it was refreshing to see Seth Aaron reel it in without losing himself. Not all of his looks were tasteful, but they all had his distinctive stamp without being unwearable, as his clothes sometimes are. I think he proved to the judges that he can be realistic; at the same time, I hope he learned from and remembers Tim's advice from his home visit. Time to reflect is crucial. Seth Aaron sometimes doesn't give himself that time; he just churns work out. Sometimes that is great, and impulsiveness can help a designer, but other times it might prevent something bigger and more amazing from emerging. Impulse shouldn't stand in the way of evolution, and I think because Seth Aaron is so fast sometimes that happens with his work. He's won a lot of fans this season, though, so I bet he does well.

Emilio
Top three looks:
Red dress--Obviously, I'm a sucker for a red dress. It was very forties, even with the shoulder treatment.
Blue wrap coat--I like the kimonoesque styling of the coat. It looked a little Target to me, but I'd wear it. There's nothing wrong with Target.
Red turtleneck with blue sleeves--I liked the simple color blocking here, and it was a wearable garment without pretension or distraction. Probably my favorite of Emilio's pieces.
Bottom three looks:
Pea green coat--This was the first thing out, and I just could not get behind it. I noticed that a lot of looks seemed as though they had rounded shoulder pads underneath, and I can't stand that. It was paired with a dress the shape of which I liked, but I really don't care for his selfmade print. It looks from afar like an oddly colored animal print, which looked tacky.
Hideous dress under the red coat-- The red coat was cute, but then the model took it off and there was that ugly print with a bizarre pea green leather bottom or whatever it was. The dress looked tawdry.
Dark brown-green skirt and jacket with the puffed sleeves--Kind of reminded me of the snake people. The red gloves looked like dish gloves.
General observations: The judges commented on Emilio's sudden commercialness--they clearly didn't remember all those really simply shaped dresses he made in the beginning. They also called his collection at one point the most sophisticated, and I almost choked. That is not the adjective I would have selected. I was also interested that Kors was so excited about the gold dress--gold lame'? Really? It wasn't ugly by any stretch, but to me it looked a bit like a sci-fi costume. In sum, I was not impressed with this collection, and would have been disappointed had Emilio been my favorite. Since he was not, I prayed for him to lose.

I don't know if anyone stuck around to watch the half hour designer/model sit-down. Recently, my sister commented that PR on Lifetime gears toward viewers who want "lots of dramatic staring, sniping, and breathless suspense." That was sort of the whole point of the extra half hour. It was a lot of sniping and "apologizing." The dramatic pause for a commerical before Maya's dramatic "real" reason she left the show--the very same reason she explained while she was on the show--was ridiculous. More realistically dramatic was Jay's personal comments about Cerri (bad teeth and thick legs), provoked by her personal dislike of his style. Her comments weren't nice, to be sure, but his were below the belt and childish. He did not do himself any favors.

Well, that's all from me. Another season down.

PR: Home

2010-04-18T14:45:00.003-05:00

It's true that I'm kind of a sucker for kids making up. I, for one, was happy to see Jay and Mila have a conversation and realize that, really, each is not as bad as the other thought. You get in pressure cookers sometimes, and you get on people's nerves, and you forget that your peers are human beings with feelings that deserve respect. It's good to remember and get rid of the negativity. Now if only Emilio could come down out of his little aerie and realize this also...
Speaking of Emilio, I read Tim's blog (eventually--my computer hates his blog's inability to load embedded videos), and I was pretty amazed at his overt animosity to Emilio. He can't stand the guy. Knowing the usual poise of Tim, to see cracks in the facade of this magnitude is really startling. He actually insists that the editing has been kind to him and Emilio. It makes me wonder how bad Emilio really is!
Moving on...I'm never that interested in the home visits. I watch them, but I don't especially find them illuminating. I confess I don't really have a lot of curiosity about the designers' lives. I could stand to see more critique of the fashions themselves; that being said, I was also surprised about how negative Tim was this year. Perhaps it's the editing, but he barely had any good things to say about anyone's collection. I didn't see any encouragement or positive reinforcement. Certainly there is need sometimes for exhortation, for upheaval, but at the same time, wouldn't you want to know what you were doing well, were you in the designers' shoes? It reminded me of my first workshop with Diane Wakoski, who is known as something of a bear in the classroom. My poem was dissected first, which meant it was the best of the day, but I also couldn't figure out why it was first, from what was said. I actually emailed her to ask her what the positives were, so I didn't destroy what was actually working. She thought I was challenging her authority, but really I just wanted to know, since I was a beginner! I kind of felt for the designers along the same lines.
Regarding Jay and Mila, I was ambivalent. I liked Jay's leather greaves and liked the silver top he made, which I would totally wear. I also liked the youth of his looks. However, I think Mila represents a perspective that is different from the other designers. I know people don't like her, but she seems really ready to put her design know-how to the test in making clothes as a business. I think that's why she ultimately got taken over Jay.
And, looking at their full collections side by side (if you'd care to do so), I think Mila was able to insert some young, punk edge to some of her looks, which shows a side of her we haven't seen yet. Interestingly, while her collection is mostly black and white, with some purple, Jay's is mostly gray, with some red, so the color argument is off the table for me. (Honestly, with all the black Siriano put together and won with, I don't know why they even care.)
Anyway, as I said several weeks ago, I do look foward to seeing the clothes on the runway, which often changes my mind about them, depending on the fluidity of the garments. We shall see!